Rear Sway Bar Bolts Go Snappity Snap
 

Managed to do the following to all four of the rear sway bar bolts last night.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a6ce3f5984.jpg

Saw a post from mobius(?) on club roadster when I searched saying that he just takes a BFH to the bolts left behind and knocks the entire thing out because of the spot welds being weak.

Any advice?

And yes, I'm clearly on a roll lately lol.

Yes. BFH. Or a drill if that doesn't work.

BFH did not work the last time i tried this. It bent the subframe.

This is what I did on my NA rear subframe before it got replaced. One of them popped out fine, the other I had to remove the muffler and drill. Just used some hardware and box wrenches


....then ended up replacing the rear subframe because fuck it, I was tired of rust.

Aw sheeet that would be no bueno!

Were you torching the crapola out of it too?

How would you advise proceeding if a few hard taps doesn't do anything? Dremel or angle grinder to cut the bolt out, then tap and drill?

I actually have a real drill now so that's nice. I bought 2 milwaukee drills and an impact with a charger and extra battery (all m12) for 50 bucks off craigslist. Sold the impact to a buddy because I already have one (though I think that one was better, oh well...). The gentleman had really nice missing teeth and said that he had bought a 36 v set of all the tools for work at a local place (he said the name I forget). It wasn't the nicest part of town so I skidaddled. I need an 18v half inch impact anyway, my 12 v one is basically a really nice excuse for an electric screwdriver... But I digress...

Don't think torching it would help break the tac welds.

I would drill it out to size. And chisel the head off the back. Replace it with a bolt.

And in lieu of that, I guess I can always leave the head on if it's stubborn right? Shouldn't be an issue with a washer on it, right?
Would chiseling first help? Isn't that the only attachment point for things? Or is it unlikely to want to budge that way at all?

ATF mixed 50/50 with straight acetone is a wonder liquid. Far better than ANY penetrating fluid you can buy.

Drill and retap. Use never-seez.

Why would you tap? These are not studs. These are bolts.

use a new bolt. Don't tap.

If I put the bolt back on the threads left and try to tighten the fak out of it with a breaker would it have any chance of breaking the spot welds or is that just a dodo idea that's going to lead to a broken breaker and a bruise on my face (or ripped metal around the bolt)? I guess it might even be helpful if it rips out the remainder of the bolt.

And yeah, I'd use a new bolt and nut, no tapping plz.

Edit: nvm, I'd likely just press the bolt and the nut into the metal between it. Doh!

Sorry, didn't look close enough to see it was a nut and not a bolt snapped off. I've had to drill and tap in the rear where the subframe brace is supposed to be bolted on.

Welcome to the world of working on 16yr old cars with corrosion on anything with threads. They teach you patience... as in soak first overnight.

for a guy that tries not to break things.........

Yeahhh. Definitely should have used the PB blaster I have sitting around here. Honestly, it was pretty weird because the bolts were turning alright when it snapped off. I wasn't fighting it when it let off and snapped. Atleast now all of them will be even lol.
The exhaust bolts/nuts have been soaking since last night though!

I said I try. I never said I was successful! :rofl:

Womp
:eggplant:

Don't waste your time on PB Blaster. Like @rleete suggested 50/50 mix acetone & atf fluid or my favorite Kroil.

If i can get at the bolt/stud I also try and give it a sharp hit with a center punch to try and break the rust bond. The header to dp bolts i use the extractor sockets and hope.

Good luck.

Yup, I'm heading out to get a center punch and chisel set so I can try whacking things with a center punch a few times and hoping the back comes out enough that I can shove a chisel in there and get the whole thing out. Should be an interesting evening...

PB blaster/wd40 is just what I had on hand at the time. I'm sure it would have been better than nothing. I'll keep an eye out for kroil. Things aren't too bad in this car because it wasn't driven too much in winter... seriously the underbody is pristine compared to other miatas from the area. But even a few drives in salt for a few years get bolts all nasty.

A dremel and cutoff wheel is handy when you need to cut a weld but don't have a lot of room. I think amazon has Kroil as well. Go to Walmart and by a couple generic spray bottles + acetone + atf fluid, mix and you're all set.

WD40 is useless for this.

That's the other nice thing. You end up with stuff you won't ever need in any endeavor in the future.

Ahhhhh . . . Texas.

Rust free cars.

Rust free political inclinations.

:giggle:

I have a friend's angle grinder and my own dremel with a couple of metal cutoff wheels handy. I just wasn't sure that there was enough clearance for it to be used on the spot welds. Then again, if I can get the bolts out and drill through them, then the spot weld can live on in its misery because I'm just going to put a bolt through it and use a washer to compensate for whatever deformity it has.

Edit: I have a hand torch too which should help.

Get one of these: Fill and keep in the garage. You'll mix once and it holds pressure over time. Shake and spray.