Recently Boosted, Share your knowledge
Drove the car home tonight from having it at my buddies garage for two months. Installed the BEGI Shanghai-S kit and ended up doing a bunch of other small things, First project so slowly denoobing myself. Shouldn't have taken nearly as long as it did but you live and you learn i guess haha. Since I just lost my turbo virginity, I was wondering if you guys could help share some useful knowledge since you've acquired since having all your cars boosted. Maybe what spark plugs to run ( a buddy of mine was telling me copper ngk's), whether to gap differently, random maintenance tips, different weight oil?, etc. Just whatever knowledge you guys can share with me, I would really appreciate it.:party:
|
NGK BKR7Es, .035 gaps, synthetic oil (RotellaT or Amsoil), and 11.8:1 AFRs in boost.
|
4 Attachment(s)
Boost is fun.
Stock rods are week. Turning up the boost is easy but can get expensive. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 915020)
and 11.8:1 AFRs in boost.
|
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 915043)
I know your hearts in the right place but please don't make blanket statements like this, its how people end up getting toons from tooners that real tuners end up fixing and want to throw the laptop out of the car while they're doing it. Its a bit of a pet peeve.
|
I dont mean that exact tit bit. Which is pretty good for most turbo cars. But people making statements like that is how you come across a car running 3 different maps copy and pasted together and 10something afrs because some well respected person on the internet made a blanket statement.
|
in, this should be good
|
Yeah and look at OP asking specific, non-vague questions......oh wait.
|
just curious...when is 11.8:1 in boost not a good idea?
|
Originally Posted by fastivab6tg25mr
(Post 915092)
just curious...when is 11.8:1 in boost not a good idea?
|
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 915043)
I know your hearts in the right place but please don't make blanket statements like this, its how people end up getting toons from tooners that real tuners end up fixing and want to throw the laptop out of the car while they're doing it. Its a bit of a pet peeve.
|
Originally Posted by 2ndGearRubber
(Post 915094)
Running a 15.5afr at full boost makes great power.... I recommend Leafy try it.
I'm not saying that it was a bad blanket statement just that one like that, which is generally pretty good, can start the slippery slope of what is now know as dsm tuning. Aka, a collection of out of context quotes by good people used incorrectly. |
Protip: this isn't some retarded DSM forum. When you try to be a smartass around here nit-picking reputable members' posts you simply come off as an ass...especially since you're a n00b, and don't actually post much valuable info, but just stupid blanket statements like "tein coilvoers suck".. "megasquirt needs histograms and autotune sucks"....etc...This isn't the 1st thread you've done this in, so either "get with the program" or lube your anus cause it aint going to be pleassant for you 'round these parts.
|
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 915043)
I know your hearts in the right place but please don't make blanket statements like this, its how people end up getting toons from tooners that real tuners end up fixing and want to throw the laptop out of the car while they're doing it. Its a bit of a pet peeve.
In reading the rest of your posts in this thread, i still don't understand what your problem with it was. |
Originally Posted by myrando
(Post 915028)
Boost is fun.
Stock rods are week. Turning up the boost is easy but can get expensive. |
Mine were bent on the 00 too, but nowhere near that much. just a very slight snaking if you compare them to a straight rod. 12psi on a 2860 iirc
|
All you need to know about AFR - https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...engine-afr-pdf
A very useful document. |
Originally Posted by Doppelgänger
(Post 915127)
Wow. When I pulled my old block apart after being boosted at 11-12psi (FMII kit) for 80k, my rods looked nothing like that. It's all in the tune...to a limit.
~14psi.. No knock/ping. Everything else in engi is fine. I did know i was pushing the engi just above the limit. Im just glad it did not break like I seen happen to others. Seems like the 250rwhp limit correct. |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 915104)
17:1 is even better.
I'm not saying that it was a bad blanket statement just that one like that, which is generally pretty good, can start the slippery slope of what is now know as dsm tuning. Aka, a collection of out of context quotes by good people used incorrectly. |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 915051)
I dont mean that exact tit bit. Which is pretty good for most turbo cars. But people making statements like that is how you come across a car running 3 different maps copy and pasted together and 10something afrs because some well respected person on the internet made a blanket statement.
I'm about to ban anyone with "Formula SAE" in their signature because you are clearly to intelligent for us trogs. |
To get back on topic and help the new guy out... Fuck guys come on.
I installed mine over the winter, so like 6 months. Year of car?? I run NGK BKR7E plugs gaped to .028 though(stock 94 coils). I also have mine tuned to 12.2 - 12.0 in boost(wot)12psi... I run regular synthetic oil. 10w30 i think. Watch your intake temps, and coolant temps. It doesn't take a genius to figure out what's to high. I usually run 10F above ambient temperature. Keep the boost down, drive the piss out of it, when it breaks. Fix it with better parts. |
You haz the answer.
|
Does anyone know if Jared ever pulled apart that stock MSM block that he was running like 23psi on for months and months... ??????
|
Originally Posted by Doppelgänger
(Post 915526)
Does anyone know if Jared ever pulled apart that stock MSM block that he was running like 23psi on for months and months... ??????
I'm building a bottom end over the winter, so after i get back from the 6000 mile wedding trip next summer, i'll be putting the 250 "limit" to the test. (I still don't buy it. The Escort/Protege guys have been going well over that for years.) I'm also reasonably sure my car spent at least 50k miles making quite a bit more than 250wtq. It made 238wtq on FM's dyno, and the car is WAY slower at that point than it was prior to bringing it to them. |
Originally Posted by myrando
(Post 915028)
Boost is fun.
Stock rods are week. Turning up the boost is easy but can get expensive. |
Originally Posted by Bblack
(Post 915016)
Drove the car home tonight from having it at my buddies garage for two months. Installed the BEGI Shanghai-S kit and ended up doing a bunch of other small things, First project so slowly denoobing myself. Shouldn't have taken nearly as long as it did but you live and you learn i guess haha. Since I just lost my turbo virginity, I was wondering if you guys could help share some useful knowledge since you've acquired since having all your cars boosted. Maybe what spark plugs to run ( a buddy of mine was telling me copper ngk's), whether to gap differently, random maintenance tips, different weight oil?, etc. Just whatever knowledge you guys can share with me, I would really appreciate it.:party:
I like flyin miata's NGK race plugs gapped to 20. They don't misfire at 36psi. That is win to me. Run rotella synthetic cus it is nice AFR. I run 10.5-11:1 AFR with meth. 11.3ish AFR without. Again. This is for 25+psi. For up to 15psi I would run 11.3-11.5 AFR. Yes, a tad richer for just in case your AFR gauge is off. Also. If you decide to tune yourself, know that your knock sensor is god.
Originally Posted by soviet
(Post 915186)
All you need to know about AFR - https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...engine-afr-pdf
A very useful document. |
Originally Posted by Faeflora
(Post 915936)
AFR. I run 10.5-11:1 AFR with meth. 11.3ish AFR without. Again. This is for 25+psi.
For up to 15psi I would run 11.3-11.5 AFR. Yes, a tad richer for just in case your AFR gauge is off. It is very useful IF you are naturally aspirated. Do not follow this guideline if you are boosted. It will at best, cost you power and at worst, your engine. You're hitting 10.5:1 at 25psi WITH meth? I was under the understanding that would burn up rings, valves, ect. I also don't see how running 14.7:1 at cruise in "econ" driving is bad. Or how 12.0:1 @ 12-15psi WOT is bad? Chance of going bang goes up, but i also don't like the idea of burning up rings and valves... I don't run super high boost, but i can't see how that would change much. |
Originally Posted by Erat
(Post 915997)
How is "11.3-11.5 AFR richer than 10.5-11.1"?
|
Originally Posted by mgeoffriau
(Post 916011)
I think he was saying 11.3 - 11.5 is tad richer than Sav's recommended 11.8.
|
Originally Posted by Erat
(Post 915997)
How is "11.3-11.5 AFR richer than 10.5-11.1"?
You're hitting 10.5:1 at 25psi WITH meth? I was under the understanding that would burn up rings, valves, ect. I also don't see how running 14.7:1 at cruise in "econ" driving is bad. Or how 12.0:1 @ 12-15psi WOT is bad? Chance of going bang goes up, but i also don't like the idea of burning up rings and valves... I don't run super high boost, but i can't see how that would change much. 10.5 will not do damage like you think. lower than 10.0 for extended periods of time might though. |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 916016)
12:1 in boost is ok on good 93 oct but risky on crap 91 oct.
10.5 will not do damage like you think. lower than 10.0 for extended periods of time might though. |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 916016)
12:1 in boost is ok on good 93 oct but risky on crap 91 oct.
10.5 will not do damage like you think. lower than 10.0 for extended periods of time might though. |
Originally Posted by Erat
(Post 915997)
How is "11.3-11.5 AFR richer than 10.5-11.1"?
You're hitting 10.5:1 at 25psi WITH meth? I was under the understanding that would burn up rings, valves, ect. I also don't see how running 14.7:1 at cruise in "econ" driving is bad. Or how 12.0:1 @ 12-15psi WOT is bad? Chance of going bang goes up, but i also don't like the idea of burning up rings and valves... I don't run super high boost, but i can't see how that would change much. Rings also don't burn up.
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 916016)
12:1 in boost is ok on good 93 oct but risky on crap 91 oct.
10.5 will not do damage like you think. lower than 10.0 for extended periods of time might though. 12:1 in boost does make good power on a miata. When I was tuning for 400hp on my GT30 I found about 30!!! hp by going from 11:1 to 12:1. No it didn't detonate. Yes it was on decent 93 octane. No I don't recommend that AFR. As 19psi says, 10.5:1 will not break anything. It can even make more power than 11:1 at high boost. I will always recommend run low 11 AFR because those extra few HP really aren't worth motor boom. Note that motor boom on lean AFR is because lean AFR runs hotter. Closer to stoich you get the higher your EGTs are. The reason why you don't blow motor and burn valves at cruise 14.7 AFR is because there really isn't much fuel going through the motor at that AFR. The more fuel, the more fire. Literally. At WOT with boost, there's a SHIZLOAD OF FRIKKEN FIRE pouring out of the valves. Hence valve burn risk and melted piston risk. |
You just contradicted yourself.
|
Originally Posted by Erat
(Post 916187)
You just contradicted yourself.
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:38 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands