seafoam oil pressure?
 

I added 6oz of seafoam to the crank case today and ran it at idle for 20min. thanged the oil and filter (filter to the mazda milennia size, oil is m1 10w30 i think thats what ive always used) check for leaks and correct fill level, all is fine.
I started and took the car for a little spin and the idle oil pressure is 60 and if i lean into it it goes to 90... is this normal after seafoam?...it used to be 30 at idle then 60 when i got on it. opinions, suggestions? thanks.

btw its a 92 with the 1.6 no turbo yet :sad2:

that's the way mine is when cold........once up to operating temp it is 20ish @ idle and about 60 when under high rpm

you need to do an oil change now....you just introduced detergents into the crankcase, which aren't lubricants.

^ that and or freed up some really nasty shit.

:werd:

After running the seafoam through, I changed the oil and filter. (cant figure out the quote thing) i say this again to tell brainiac. brainiac, you say to "change the oil now" because you think i didnt after the seafoam, or because I effed something up?

no because seafoam is a detergent; its a good cleaner. so it's breaking down your oil and cleaning out your crankcase....you need to get it out of there and put in some good oil.

I did drain the oil I used seafoam with and put in new m1 10-30. now with the new oil in is whats giving me my strange oil pressure.

oh i cant read very well.

oil is thicker, what filter did you use?

AKA:

He put seafoam in.
Cleaned the gunk.
Changed Oil.
Now has Oil Pressure issues.

i used a fram filter for a mazda millenia...i read somewhere on this forum someone did that to increase oil capacity a bit, it fits fine.

as far as the oil weight, i wish i could find the damn paper i wrote the info down on the last time i changed the oil but i think its the same weight that i had.though last time it was quakerstate and now its mobile1

10w30 shouldn't give you oil pressure like that. And on a side note I think I've heard it mentioned that Fram filters are a no-no. I just did a 2Twisty flush (similar to seafoaming) and my oil pressure is 70 bone cold idle, 25 warm idle, and 60ish in high rpms warm. Same as it was before.

weight is important...empty quarts in the trash to go check?

Was that cold or warm? My car runs up to 90 when its cold. Castrol GTX 5w30 IIRC...stock filter.


Warm idle is about 15psi...30-60 while driving.

ok a few things...

what weight oil is everyone else using?

what filter are you using if not fram?

keep in mind im in southern florida, so "cold" start doesnt really pertain to me.:)

how much would it matter if its m1 10w30 full synthetic high mileage...shit :bang:

well oil weight can make a difference.

I for one am using one of the best filters on the market IMO. Puralator Pure One.

I dunno, would it really hurt you to change your oil again?

Fram filters have crappy internal construction or at least they used to. A factory filter will be better. Some of the other brands like Purolator can be good too.
Not sure if this is the source of your problem.

I've used fram filters on everything I've owned before and so has my dad for years, and never had any troubles. would the "high mileage" oil have anything to do with this. and what is a good weight for the miata...10w30...5w30?

I've always used 10w30, I just switched to 5w30 after the 2twisty flush to help cold tick (which is gone btw) The OP is the same for both.

i've used M1 10-30 for 6 years now, cold tick is gone, it was there when i bought the car...and it was bad

i also used the fram filter for ever...i dont like what im hearing about them though...i just wish i could find more info on that...
i got a free M1 filter, i think im gonna try that and see if i notice any difference in oil clearity after change
if that does nothing, i think ill just buy a bunch of OEM ones in bulk and just stick with them

Little hijack here but:

I too used Fram filters forever until hearing about issues with them. Then I bought one of each filter at pepboys (all purolators, pure ones, etc) and just looking at the construction you can see the poor quality of the fram. I now use WIX filters on everything which IMHO are extremely high quality, even above the most expensive purolator. Actually the K&N oil filters were nice quality but I also heard online that they don't filter well.

I still have those filters, one of these days I'll cut open each. I'll sacrifice $20 to the cause ;) I don't see when I'll use them if I think they aren't as good as the WIX...might as well cut them open.

Also, WIX only has 1 part number for the miata and millenia, and it's the longer millenia size.

I occasionally used Fram in my Miata without issue. The last time I used one in my Miata was two years ago. I recently put one in my GF's Cherokee, though, and when I did the next oil change 3000 miles later, it looked like the insides had disintegrated and were flowing out with the old oil.

well ill look into the WIX filter...how much more is it, and where do you get it? as far as the fram filters go, a few of you are saying you used to use them but dont now because you heard they fall apart, where did you guys hear this...was is someone on this forum?

I mean I'll look into it I'm not ignorant, but i just have a hard time believing it after using them on a 96' dodge ram with 240,xxx miles on, and never had a problem.

It's the same thing my dad says. He refuses to change away from the frams cause he's been using them literally forever with no problem, lots of years and miles, etc, and I never had a problem either. My decision was based on the obvious construction quality difference, but I wouldn't have bothered looking if it weren't for sites on the internet about filter quality. I don't have any links though, sorry.

The Frams look like they are punched out at 1000/min somewhere in china, where the Wix look like they are hand assembled and painted in a paint booth.

EDIT: I buy mine from a local industrial supply place right by my work. They are only about $4.

where do you get yours tim?

Total Supply Group/Van Sant in the Lakewood Industrial Park. Right by the airport.

i used to live in nj, piscataway then to brick....well i drove the car today and the pressure seemed to calm down a little bit. finally idled at 30, but if i rev it the op gauge is VERY responsive, almost like a little second tach for oil, jumping to 60 and a hair past.