should I yank the metal clutch out for an organic clutch?
 

I'm taking the trans out again and I'm nervous about using my spec S3 clutch because of shock loading. Is this ridiculous, or should I buy an organic clutch?

Any recommendations on a clutch NOT MADE BY ACT?

stock 1.6 clutch should do the job. Readily available and easily obtained for free.

I have a standard 1.6 clutch and flywheel sitting in my garage, you can have it if you pay shipping from New Zealand.

PM me if interested.

I have a decent 1.6L clutch sitting in my trunk. You can has it. It has a pressure plate that doesn't look stock, but I haven't looked into it. Regardless the PP is useless at your power levels. Without looking back at your build I'm assuming you have some badass shit.


Although I highly recommend the ACT Xtreme. I make love to it nightly.

I have an Exedy Stage 1 clutch(organic) and find it has good engagement and isn't a pain to drive. I am running at 250/250 and it seems to be holding very well.

This.

I think your just being a bitch? ;)

Here's one I just purchased, check out the specs and its not ACT;)
Exedy Stage 2 - Single Plate Cerametallic Clutch Kit Mazda Miata

+1 :jerkit:

Ok hustler...I just read your entire build thread...again.

You have a six speed and a torsen...chill the fuck out.



btw, shouldn't you be racing by now.


Track paging Dr. Hustler...

For such an internet ethug/badass hustler is the biggest fucking pussy I've seen yet:giggle:

"Rape face on the track, etc etc etc" and he still hasnt gone

My flywheel and pressure plate are pressed together out of sheer terror. You clearly aren't man enough to duplicate this, though, so I'll recommend you use a stock 1.6 clutch so your feminine legs can at least have a hope of pressing it down far enough to back the car out of your boyfriend's guest spot.

:greddy: :giggle:

bitch I haven't been home yet. If i didn't live in a hotel it would have been done a long-time ago.

I'm worried about breaking shit and ending up marooned at the track.

Hustler: The biggest pussy "e-thug" ever


you could try the FM stage II, or stop being the biggest pussy-ass e-bench racer known to man.

I'm taking out my stock clutch from the 02 I have... and replacing it with a SPEC Stage III. You are welcome to have my old 56k mile clutch if you want it.

Tho, on my 99 with the turbo, MSM 6 speed, and open POS diff... it did just fine. What's your concern... your diff or smthing else?

Cheers,
Prospero

I'm most worried about getting stranded at the track, the middle of nowhere, and leaving my car on the highway when it breaks then returning to find it stolen...again.

I dunno, sounds like you are being a touch worried. If shits gonna break, it's gonna break no matter what. I'd say stick with the cluch but just don't bang gears too often.

Cheers,
Prospero

hustler baby, turns out the shit I just pulled out is some kind of Exedy, but don't know what the markings mean. It's a 1.6L size, and in decent shape.

Attachment 206283

Attachment 206284

Attachment 206285

Attachment 206286

Attachment 206287

I have no idea if it's what you're looking for, but if so let me know todayish.

Webster is way the fuck out of my way home, but I'll swing by and give it to your dingleberry worry wart ass if you do three things:

1. Relax about your setup.
2. Don't laugh at mine.
3. Buy me a smoothie.

See ya,

Big Body D


sorry for crappy cell phone pics...shit's yours if you care to install it and see.

Dude Hustler....go to NAPA and get one of those overly-dependable LUK clutch kits...it'll hold up to your pussyfooting just fine





































:giggle:

I dunno man, the only thing Hustler bands too often is his boyfriends face



OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh snap

Three things to look at here. Size (area of friction), force (amount of force on PP), and material coeficent (Type of clutch lining). The only reasonable size increase would be the stock 1.8 flywheel. but your trade would be added weight. You can go with a 3k lbs. PP, but the pedal is gonna be much harder to push then a stock PP. and lastly the clutch lining, well this can go on all day. but if you are trying to hold x-amount of TQ. u need to decide what trado off you are willing to take for the increase in TQ. capacity. If your worried about nukeing a trans, then go with a 1.8 flywheel organic disk with a high clamping load PP. if your a track day manic 1.6 moly flywheel, 4-puck sprung hub, and a stock or stage 1 PP. The number of combo's in between would be dependent on what you what it to do. As far as breaking something, a failing clutch will probley get you home, but a broken trans or diff more likely not.

Why not just remove the clutch all together, then you can rest easy that nothing will ever break.

I might worry about shock loading with a 4-puck and solid hub, but with a 6-puck and sprung hub you should be fine assuming you know how to drive teh manuwel transmish0nz.

I don't know wtf he's so worried about.

I just wanna see him swap in a stock clutch so he can then worry about when it's gonna start slipping.

Interested in that clutch gospeed if hustler doesn't take it.

I looked it up, it's just a regular Miata clutch:

90 1990 Mazda Miata Clutch Kit Exedy Mazda Clutch Kit

PM if you're interested, has PP.

... is this thread for real? What the fuck is going on, building a 270 rwhp track miata and then wanting to run an organic disc to baby the driveline... I re-read that twice because I thought I was missing the sarcasm somehow.

1. broken car in the middle of nowhere
2. can't make it to work because I'm stranded
3a. car is stolen sitting on the side of the road
3b. massive amounts of money to get the car towed
4. irreparable damage resulting from transmission failure killing rear end too
5. a voice speaks to me in the night and I leave cars again
6. shameful reality of spending money on a car again only to destroy it or end up stolen

So which direction are you thinking of going?

And why the aversion to ACTs?

What PP do you have?

Eh never mind. If it's not going to hold more power than the stock 1.6 I don't really need it.

Buy a beater for cheap and use your alleged immense baddassery to make it reliable. Problem solved.

Why not use the new FM type II clutch set? I am about to put two of thier level two kits in my cars and the quality seem pretty good.

What I figured, pretty worthless unless you just happen to find a deal on a badass PP.

Probably the best suggestion yet...and it's PURPLE! :giggle:

Drive it till it Pukes! That's what you built it for....
Now as for leaving it when it breaks....ain't happening! You break, give me a call and I'll trailer it to the house in Granbury. 12 miles from the track, and atleast you'll know it's safe.
I know you're worries.....but there is no reason to build a monster and worry about the consequences.
I made the decision a long time ago, that if I can't push it off a cliff and walk from it, I ain't racin' it.
Besides you've got the "Clown" car if the worst case scenario rears its little head. :makeout:

I had an ACT pressure plate with a few dead fingers which never gripped, and ACT refused to warranty. Also, I've attempted to help several friends extend the clutch lever all the way out and some are still on the carpet, some never fully lock up, and some work fine. Its not a risk I'm willing to take which will involve both taking the clutch back out in a futile effort to get ACT to fix it, which they won't and it will be $400 in the trash, AGAIN.

Who makes the FM clutch? If its ACT then I'm not going to deal with that bullshit again.

I suggest it first.


do it dude, it's not ACT parts.

Find a girlfriend with AAA.

fixed

As a moderator, I feel I should delete every response that isn't:

GET THE 949 TWIN ORGANIC SETUP.

because that is the only clutch anyone with over 200 hp should ever run.

And I'm tired of the whining when people dont do what I say.

As soon as my ACT gives up the ghost (and I find a gold nugget in my poo one morning) the 949 twin is going in my car. You can hear that shit engage in his in-car videos.

I think you are in the wrong type of hobby if you are this worried. Don't drive like a douche bag and you should be ok.

You SHOULD be more concerned about 1000 other things when you take you car out on the track. Next time you are near 10/10ths think about your endlinks. Or lug nuts. Or the mechanical failure someone had coming around the next corner. The hemorrhoids you are getting from taking it in the ass all the time.

I already bought links, tie-rod ends, 4 bearings, and new control arm hardware. I also did new lug studs after discount tire impacted the old ones and I had to replace them all.

I think my bases are covered there. I'm still worried about overheating, grenading the motor, breaking teeth off gears, and blowing-up the rear end.

That will likely be going in with my next motor.

FM level 2 setup and you'll be fine. If there's any company in the Miata community that will stand behind their product it's FM. It's tested, available and is priced to sell.

Someone with this list on their mind probably aren't suited to a project, DIY track miata... or any budget track car for that matter.
Yes shits broken down and stranded me on the side of the road before. Yes I've had to call in late to work because I wasn't done working on my car (bought the motorcycle for those situations). Yes it's possible shit can break and thus break other shit. These are accepted risks but the miata is crazy reliable even under brutal abuse in general so at least you have decent odds. I can't help you with hallucinations or visits from the ghost of project car's past. If you are that stressed about it, get the car appraised and go full insurance - then you can rest at ease that if your miata is stolen or wrecked you'll get enough $$ to go buy the used Porsche Boxter you belong in.