Skunk2 Throttle Body - Throttle Cable Wheel Removal & Drilling to fix sticky throttle
 

Anyone know how to remove the throttle cable wheel off the skunk2 throttle body? I just got it and wanted to pre-emptively drill this hole to stop the throttle stickiness before I port anything on my squaretop.

I removed the 13mm nut that seems to be holding it on however the cable wheel won't budge, I have to be missing something obvious, right?

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...da3c931895.jpg

Just wiggle it back and forth it should come off. Mine was a little hard to remove too.

I recommend drilling a few holes, I drilled 3 and ended up using the middle all with even spacing and starting from the red dot you have pictured. Its a little tricky to get a throttle with good tension that closes properly. I also had to change the throttle cable tension a bit. I found with the cable tension adjusted to oem spec it would stick open when heat soaked.

Skip to 4:30 in this video and you can see it done if you don't believe me.

Got it after a decent amount of wiggling

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4ddfe2b951.jpg

Installed the throttle body and it still stuck, just drilled a 3rd hole and installed it. Will report back if this fixes it

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5202faf688.jpg

Where your 3rd hole is is where mine ended up being and I no longer have the heatsoaked throttle sticking.

Well the throttle isn't sticking anymore, but the idle bypass screw won't go in far enough to idle below 850 RPM. Closing the IAC completely causes me to hit 850 RPM. I either have a nasty vacuum leak (possible, VEAL is adding fuel just about everywhere and my idle is hanging when I let off the throttle) or the idle screw is messed up.

Anyone have a purple bypass screw too? I haven't seen a Junk2 with this color bypass screw before.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...75622b997c.jpg

Somehow the throttle is sticking even worse now, when I let off the throttle my car sits at 2k RPM til I push up on the throttle from below or physically move it shut. For some reason my spring doesn't want to fully close the throttle, and I may or may not have a vacuum leak. I tried spraying soapy water on the throttle body and intake manifold and didn't see any bubbles.

I probably should have kept the stock throttle body installed, but I already ported my squaretop for this one.

Tune and logs attached, one short log of my car being stuck at 2k RPM til I manually shut the throttle, and one of my car idling with a weird AFR fluctuation I didn't have before.

Any ideas on what else to try to fix the throttle sticking? I am going to mess with the throttle cable length some more and see if that helps.

Here is the issue in action, there isn't enough spring to close the throttle fully, so when I release the throttle it sticks at 1.4% according to the TPS, and my RPM stays at 900-1000 or so as well, instead of 850.

I drilled two more holes to see if more tension will fix the issue

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3212bf24a5.jpg

EDIT - It didn't

What a piece of junk

99% sure I don't have a vacuum leak as the car behaves normally other than this issue. Opened a ticket with Skunk2 to see if the part is still in warranty, I doubt it.

To my untrained eye it looks like you don't have any slack in your throttle cable. Give the throttle body slightly more slack.

I will try giving it some more and see if it helps

That fixed it, I am a moron. Thanks for the suggestion :likecat:

For anyone looking for stock pedal feel, the second to last hole I drilled feels very similar to my OEM throttle body.

Glad it was a simple fix. Happy motoring.

Glad you got this sorted out!

I would run as little spring pressure as you can get away with. I have seen at least one of those Junk2 return springs break

I adjusted the cable too loose, causing the first 15% or so of my throttle to not open the plate. I adjusted the throttle cable closer to give it proper tension (1-3mm) and the throttle sticks open. I think the spring has too much tension on it, I will try moving it back a bit and readjusting the cable. Having the first 15% of throttle travel not do anything isn't ideal and confuses my AE settings.

TPS is tied to throttle plate movement and should the only thing affecting accelerator enrichment. Pedal movement has no bearing on anything if throttle plate isn't moving.

Ah, thanks for clarifying that. Guess I just need to properly tune my AE after fixing the throttle plate return to stop the jerkiness.

Have you messed with the idle valve initial duty tables? My idle hangs when I blip the throttle. (But that is a bandaid I set up because I am having issues with the car dieing when I come to a stoplight while heatsoaked with the Junk2)

Yes, I have that table mostly setup. It was pretty easy to get baseline values there, just use the idle valve test function and note what duty % equals what RPM, toss those values into the table and it will work well enough.