So...after my off road excursion...I have some issues, ideas?
I'm not sure why, I'll post up more after I drive it home this weekend and look underneath it...but here what I have noticed so far, by the way the clutch is on its last legs, slips, shudders on starts etc...so if that might contribute, let me know:
-Shifts are notchy as all hell, especially into 1,2,3 -Idle is ~1100 RPMs at times when pulling to stoplight...stays there until I go -shifter shakes at idle...feels like rough idle... -shifter/car bucks on decel at times...noticed it most in 3rd gear -under light thottle application car wants to buck...then it will stop... EDIT: Shifter seems like it is bouncing up and down...wtf? I don't know whats going on :( any ideas? |
Comp check?
Are all cyclinders firing? |
Sounds like a vaccume leak and a bad slave cyl.
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Just replaced slave cylinder...will check that today
I'm going to check the plugs...power feels fine though... today the shifter is moving almost...um and down at 30 mph cruise in third...like its moving on a wave. |
Originally Posted by Jefe
(Post 71148)
Comp check?
Are all cyclinders firing? What would be causing the shifter to bounce though...I just did MS motor mounts...can the tranny break free from the PPF? its moving up and down and I can feel it through the car. its almost like a pulse. |
3 Attachment(s)
Well...shit.
I found the problem. Attachment 217043 Attachment 217044 Attachment 217045 So...Torsen swap I guess? My DD is gone until I fix this...Ideas? |
wow thats nuts man, I thought those things were hella beefy, but i guess that cast metal can only take so much before it snaps.
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A good welder that works in aluminum could handle that.
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Originally Posted by olderguy
(Post 71707)
A good welder that works in aluminum could handle that.
On a side note, I'm not sure I know about body around here...I will have to ask around. |
Of course the best would be to upgrade if you can. Might check with any plastic injection molding companies in the area to see who they use for their molds. We have a very good shop in Roselle Park, NJ that I would normally take something like that to. Maybe $100 in cost.
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Originally Posted by olderguy
(Post 71765)
Of course the best would be to upgrade if you can. Might check with any plastic injection molding companies in the area to see who they use for their molds. We have a very good shop in Roselle Park, NJ that I would normally take something like that to. Maybe $100 in cost.
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Originally Posted by olderguy
(Post 71765)
Of course the best would be to upgrade if you can. Might check with any plastic injection molding companies in the area to see who they use for their molds. We have a very good shop in Roselle Park, NJ that I would normally take something like that to. Maybe $100 in cost.
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No charge for the Red Sox sticker, I'm not into sports.
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Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 71779)
he could probably find carriers for free though. all those empty torsen shells....
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I haven't thought about that...
what would you guys recommend...it'll push my turbo plans back a couple of months but financially I could afford to swap to a torsen rear I think...if I waited a few weeks. |
ask around, you can probably find the aluminum carrier half for cheap-as-free even locally. the best part is it's a straight bolt-up affair. get some oil pan sealant RTV and that's about it. since the diff is mounted to the pinion housing, it'll only take a few hours and no special tools.
Matt |
hmmm redsox
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Post in the WTB for a 1.6 carrier only. Somebody that screwed up their ring and pinion and upgraded might have one laying around. The housing is light and ships pretty cheaply.
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