So, it is safe to drive around like this????
 

Well, the otherday I replaced the manifold studs, which was rather NOT fun. Anyway, when i disconnected the charge pipe from the compressor, it took a decent bit of work to break the "seal" the silicone pipe (FM 1 piece pipes) had on the compressor. So after I put everything back together, all was well. So I thought. The charge pipe popped off the compressor on my way home and i fixed it this morning. So i thought. It popped off again this afternoon. So i brought it back home and messed with it for about an hour to make sure i had the pipe back on just right and had the clamp on just right. So I thought. I took it out and ran though the gear and all was well. Then, I rolled into 6th just to pass someone on the interstate and i hear the tell-tale woosh of air escaping from somewhere other than the bov. I even went as far as to clean the inside of the silicone pipe with alcohol to clean off any oil residue and I took some sand paper and tried to scuff up the compressor outlet surface. So WTF is going on here? Is it going to hurt anything if I have to drive far like this?

You can overspool the turbo like that. It doesn't have a boost signal so it spins up to ten bajillion rpm and fucking explodes on your face.

It's not ideal, stay out of boost if you can when you know you've blown a coupler. To help it stick more you can get a new 4-5 ply coupler that fits tighter, use tbolt clamps, and use hairspray when installing for some sticky icky. Are your pipes not bead rolled?

If they're not bead rolled I would take the pipe our completely and flare the end of the pipe with a hammer so that it has some positive taper to it so that the coupler can still slip over it but as the coupler slides off it gets tighter.

+1 on hairspray. Stopped all my popping couplers, and it happened to me ALL the time. When it happened and I couldn't pull over right away to fix it, I just stayed out of boost.

Vash-

Let me clarify myself a bit more....

http://www.flyinmiata.com/turbos/ima...G_4002_300.jpg


See where the compressor transitions to the silocone pipe? Thats the joint im having trouble with. Pile of shit. I'll try the hairspray shit tomorrow.
I was thinking that if the engine is not having air forced in, then there is less exhaust gas to push through the turbo which would equate to the turbo NOT going apeshit.

The turbo goes ape shit wether the coupler is on or not. Your motor is still capable of 120 hp or more stock, it will spool that 2560 like a mofo. Don't overspin it please, i don't want to see you buying a new turbo.

Use hair spray on the sucker, do you have tclamps? If not you can get them from napa tomorrow easily.
http://www.justchil.net/evo/part_lis...st_clamps.html
Follow that link for part numbers. Many diesels use tclamps as OEM spec so you can get them for like $3 when absolutely necessary. Worm clamps suck the dick.

Wait, doesn't the FM kit come with some weird constant torque clamp? Basically a tclamp with a spring right?

Don't worry.. I haven't been Speed Racer when this shit popped off..... shift under 5k and only giving part throttle. There is a t-clamp on it already too :(

I don't get why there isn't a bead on the end of the compressor outlet though.





I will say... thank fucking God im running on a MAP sensor because there is no way in fucking HELL i'd be able to pull over and get this shit back on [like i would have to if i had a AFM]. At lease i can drive fairly normally with the MAP.

with a T bolt that shit should be on there tight... maybe your not man enough? haha jk I have no clue.

Oh I got your "man enough" right fucking here

http://gizmodo.com/assets/resources/...rotch-grab.jpg

(note to self - drink more beer before posting on mturbo)

if your going to do that you need an actual pic of yourself with miataturbo.net written on paper taped to your crotch while your grabbing it for proof.

oh... don't fucking make me.









fag.
















:giggle:

!

Make a bead around the compressor if you have to. You could do something with JB weld or similar stick type epoxy. You could dremel a groove around the outlet and fit a piece of wire, could even be plastic wire, like oringing a block. That would give you a fair bead.
Alot of people say hairspray fixes this for them.

the t-clamp should be enough....try tightening it like a man....or use a power drill like a pussy (like me)

Be careful overtorquing a tclamp, don't let it bottom out anyway if its the wrong size, it will destroy it.

I used windex to get my couplers to stay and I second what chad said about getting 4 ply couplers. I bought some from Silicone intakes and two off ebay and the difference is startling. The ebay ones are totaly shit(cant believe they are still holding) compared to siliconeintakes couplers.

He is using the FM 1 piece couplers. I'm sure FM uses good quality 4 ply silicone, as good if not better than siliconeintakes.

Siliconeintakes is cool and all, but they rarely ever have what I need in stock. And the order I did place from them, was fucked up. :bang:

Hairspray that bitch and be done with it.

Vash-

I have the same problem with mine, if you don't get the hose lined up perfectly it will keep popping off.
Mine would start slipping off as soon as you started to tighten the clamp.
you have to shove it up onto the compressor outlet as far as you can and then get it "parallel" I had to take the other end off the intercooler to get it right.

OK, after another hour of finagling with it, i think i finally got it. It seems that when i put the turbo back in, i put one of the water lines in front of the oil drain (toward the front of the car). This was making the fit of the hose kinda tight up top. So i pulled the water line off and routed it around the other way. Oh what fun that was. Anyway, i just took it for a 30min drive going in and out of boost and whatnot and everything is still holding. I know i'll be paranoid for the next couple of days though.

it's going to suck if this happens:

http://boostedmiata.com/exhaust/exhaust006.jpg


which i doubt it will, but i like to be an ass and bring everyone down....

I would suggest loosening your PPF bolts...or just remove them. :giggle:

That would be a job for Cool Cat Racing....they'll leave all kinda things wrong with your car lol.


Scott,
your couplers look like shit.... learn to cut.

as said before, and taken from (my) experience: hairspray works wonders

fucking thing popped off again......

the comp outlet should have a bead rolled on it. I don't know why FM doesn't. easiest thing to do would be to mix some jb weld and build up a jb "bead".

if you could afford downtime (I know you can't though), I've seen C.Bell offer to add the bead to an FM comp outlet at no charge quite a few times.

I don't think i'll have any downtime for something like that with my new job starting tomorrow.


Alrighty, i got it back on again. This time i cleaned the inside with wheel cleaner since it has a slight acid to it and will hopefully take away any oil that might have been causing it to be slick. Then I noticed that when i was messing with a coolant line, that coolant gets nice and sticky when it dries. So I wiped some coolant on the inside and let it dry. On top of that, when i put the hose back on, i put the clamp all the way up to the very edge of the hose... every so slightly over hanging and I was able to get it tighter than I had been able to before. I guess we'll see if it works... I feel better about it this time over the other two.

have it happen on the track a few tries and ultimately fix it with friction tape....not fun.

Oh, i had the most PITA time getting all of the intercooler pipes on my s/c'ed car to stay. I think i had to fix them about 9 times on the drive home from the shop that did the intercooler for me. Then, on the Dragon one night, i had to pull over about 4 times to fix it. I had the shit down to a science.

My last fix-it-at-the-track were the manifold to turbo bolts..... i had to tighten them between every session....with only a 30 minute cool down period and no hotsleeve.

Anybody got the part number for the t-clamps at napa?

You could also go to home depot and try to find some type of construction adhesive e.g., liquid nails for stoves.

Stuff like

http://www.woodstove-outlet.com/gaskets.htm

I don't know if you ever want to take off your hose again but if you don't, this might work.

Goddamn thing popped off again.... and this time i wasn't even in boost!

I'm seriously considering adhesives at this point.

get some new motor mounts :)

btw regarding adhesives--- i strongly recommend gaffer's tape over duct tape. absolutely superior in every aspect...

not for engines though :)

Whats up bro, you don't have any hairspray layin around? I've been trying to tell you it works. I have been minutes from the bar/club, not dressed to be under a car, and had the fucking couplers pop. I have had dates in the car, and had the fucking couplers pop. I have had my god damn mother fucking couplers pop, blow, and explode all the fuck over the place more than enough times. :vash:

Since I have hairsprayed the inside of the couplers, I have yet to have one blow. And I've turned up the boost twice. This is also on pipes without beads. Instead of bitching about it, try the fucking hairspray!! :bang: Alot of people swear by it, I am one of them. Spray, t-bolt tight, and say goodbye to all your coupler nightmares. Yes.......its very true. :bigtu:

Vash-

I've never blown a coupler, even at peak boost of 15 psi. See if corky has a extra compressor housing around. He might do a switcharoo for you if you beg nicely.

use F**KING hairspray.. I had to do it with the talon, it works mike. Just go steal some from Jenn.

BTW congrats on the job

I DID!! I think her shit is too fancy lol:giggle: Maybe i should have tried some AquaNet:bang:

OK, i came up with another solution that is a big "fuck you" to the clamp...I went all out McGyver on this fucker. There is a area on the compressor right above the clamp that is tapped for a screw. So I put a screw in there and ran a piece of heavy wire around part of the clamp and the screw to hold the goddamn clamp in place. Here is my awesome anti-expensive non-slr picture, but it least its not from a shitty cellphone lol.

Attachment 212563

So far, so good...drove around with no problems.

try using a smaller clamp

^^^ditto that. Looks like your clamp is too small. No matter how shitty the pipe, if you have a good coupler, a DRY, CLEAN connection, and a properly-sized clamp, it shouldn't pop off. I've blown a lot of connections, and they've been oily or underclamped every time.

that's pretty gay. Mike I've got a pile of t-clamps if you want to go through them to find one that fits better.

of these....which one do you think is going to fail first? :)


http://www.boostedmiata.com/new_miat...attachment.jpg

here is a pic of my daily driver's intercooler piping:
http://www.briskusa.com/images/photo...rk%20plugs.jpg
I figured it was time to get real with gas prices so the Subaru had to go.

Please don't post pictures like that. That's NSFW :eek5: