Stainless lines
Moss is running a sale, and their having deals on stainless braided lines overlaps nicely with my shopping list.
I've read over the descriptions, and the only thing I see is that the cheaper set doesn't explicitly state that they're DOT-approved. But surely they wouldn't be selling unsafe brake lines... right? That being said, is there any reason to choose these: http://www.miatamania.com/Shop/ViewP...eIndexID=66673 over these? http://www.miatamania.com/Shop/ViewP...00&SortOrder=4 |
it's all the same, just get what's cheapest.
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couldn't tell you why one is better than the other, but thanks for pointing out the sale... I've been wanting a set for a while.
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Call and ask if they are DOT approved. If not don't get them.
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i noticed that the set comes with a distribution block thingy, my set didnt come with that, that explains why i could not figure out how to install my rear lines...shit!!!
thats for the usefull link, i need to get on the phone now and try to get the rest of kit now... Cheers Dan |
Just a heads up. My clutch and brake lines arrived today. I went with the cheaper ones: http://www.miatamania.com/Shop/ViewP...00&SortOrder=4
They seem to be of pretty decent quality. I was concerned about: a) coating (as opposed to the stainless braid being exposed to filth, grit, and the elements and b) swivel fittings on the banjo bolts. They've got both. I'm a very happy camper. Outstanding value with their being on sale now imo. |
Good call on your check list.
Main thing to avoid is uncoated SS lines. Crap/dirt gets under the line, then becomes an abrasive and slowly slices into the line. Next thing you know you are loosing fluid and then your brakes. |
If you do end up with uncoated lines, get long heat shrink tubing and cover the lines yourself. Then you can use electrical tape on the ends of the heat shrink to really seal then up tight.
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Any noticeable difference in brake feel besides knowing that your lines aren't going to burst, split, crack, get damaged?
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If you know your brakes, you'll notice the difference between old rubber and new SS lines. They have little to no give and it's noticeable.
It's all about brake feel and being able to control modulation. |
Originally Posted by cjernigan
(Post 240125)
If you do end up with uncoated lines, get long heat shrink tubing and cover the lines yourself.
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Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 240130)
A little tip that I use for protecting wire splices in hostile environments- get the heat shrink, and when you install it, spread some RTV silicone around the end of the line (not over the heatshrink tube, but under it). Then use a heatgun to shrink the tubing down over the silicone. Some of it will squirt out and make a mess, but it's as close as you can come to a completely impermeable water-tight seal.
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Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 240130)
A little tip that I use for protecting wire splices in hostile environments- get the heat shrink, and when you install it, spread some RTV silicone around the end of the line (not over the heatshrink tube, but under it). Then use a heatgun to shrink the tubing down over the silicone. Some of it will squirt out and make a mess, but it's as close as you can come to a completely impermeable water-tight seal.
Originally Posted by Splitime
(Post 240142)
Oooo I like it.
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huge difference in SS lines for me
i did just find out that my kit was indeed incomplete, i bought it from CDOC back in sep. of last year, they stepped up to the plate and fixed the issue, the manufacturer messed up a few kits, they are sending me another one with the distribution block this time and a drop label i guess for me to return the old one i currently have only front lines and it kinda sucks at performance driving, fronts lock up and rears never do, too much front bias... ill do the rear once as soons as i get the kit |
I called and talked to a parts guy @ Moss- he said the only difference in the kits is that the expensive ones are name brand, and the cheaper ones are not.
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