I just picked up a vvt head. It's been ported and cc'ed to lower compression and has 2000 miles on it, from what I was told. It was stored in his garage. There is some rust discoloration on the cams. I'm not going to use this for a while. I want to clean it up and store it in my enclosed porch. Would scrubbing the cams with a rag with oil be enough to clean cams or can I use something more aggressive, like real fine steel wool or emory cloth. I'd rather not take the cams out, if I don't have to. If the cams have discoloration can I assume that the lifters, bores and shims are fubared too? It's hardly anything, it just wipes off with your finger. I want to build a motor in the next year or two and I'm trying to start acquiring parts.

After cleaning I had planned on spraying the whole head, inside and out with wd40. Then wrap it in a plastic garbage bag, box it and forget about it until the time comes that I need it. To make sure there's no warping, should I stand it on end or lay it combustion side down on some padding?

 

I wouldn't use anything aggressive, like steel wool, etc., as much for all the debris and shards it will leave behind in buckets, etc. Also, I don't like to leave the valve springs in a compressed state (the one's holding the valves open). With my SOHC VW's race heads, if stored, I'd undo the cam tower caps, and release the tension on the springs as much as possible, then re-tighten once the engine was going back together. Guess I'd try the oil rag rub, and see how it does. If your not happy with it, it may be best to pull the cams, and clean out / off the head, and do the WD-40 wrap, as you plan.

 

 

Old school ATF as far as long term corrosion inhibitor, we used to pour it in the ports of rotaries for storage. Then give a few turns every 6 months. Smokes a bit when you first fire it up, but otherwise good as new.

 

For cleaning the cams, yeah try a rag before anything remotely abrasive.


So far as preventing more corrosion etc just make sure to cover everything in oil/grease/etc
My spare head I just coated the cams in thin sticky grease (I used Wurth HHS2000 because well, I have a few cans, and it sticks to **** without drying out)

But tbh for long term storage i'd suggest something thick like bearing grease.
Basically, you want something that is sticky enough to not run off, and will create an air/moisture tight barrier.

Presumably before you use the head you'll be hot tanking it anyway, so the grease and **** will all be washed off before use.

 

you want to remove the cams so you dont force uneven wear on the springs.
and you want the valve seals to store with the valves closed . not open.

I wouldnt worry to much about some rust on the cams between the lobes.
while you have the cams out any ways you can drop them at a machine shop for a little hot tanking.

I wrap my stored heads, head gasket surface with some carbboard to prevent it getting gouged in storage or nicked

I hose them down with WD40 and Engine Fogging Oil.
Then toss the heads in some black plastic bags one facing one direction and a second bagging going the other way.

Store them inside if you can. if stored outside or some where that does not have A/C like a garage or shed you should not store them on the ground.

Every 6months to a year spray a bit more fogging oil in the bags.

 

Toss in contractor cleanup bags or storage bin with some desiccant packets, and seal as air tight as you can.

 

You say "enclosed porch", is it climate controlled?

Sebring is one of the most humid places in the world outside a rainforest. Or so it feels like May-Sept sitting on grid or changing brake pads.

Do not use steel wool on anything assembled you don't want to destroy.

A good coating with a true rust preventative will do wonders. LPS, Dynotrol, Rigs or something designed for rust prevention not cleaning or lubrication.

Better yet I can store it for you where it will stay lubricated.