Suggestions for frozen axles?
 

Well I got my torsen a week early so I was stoked, and pulled everything tonight hoping to at least get the open diff removed, but I've hit a bit of a roadblock. I pulled the pads and rotors, as well as the upper control arm bolt and the axle bolt, but...

Both axles are frozen in the knuckles, and they're laughing at my axle puller tool. Some lovin from a BFH has shown no response, either. I'm at a loss, as the car's half apart and the damn diff fluid has already been drained, so I can't exactly drive it as-is anymore, but I'll be damned if the axles pull. Currently soaking in PB, but I'm unsure how that'll work out. :vash:

Why are you removing the axles? It's not uncommon for them to simply rust into place, which requires that you replace the entire spindle. If you already have a '95, you can just use your current axles in the new diff. No need to remove the outer shaft from the hub at all.

^What he said.

^ That's..... what I'm doing? The axles are frozen to the hubs in the car I'm installing the diff in. Not sure how that was misconstrued..

You have a 95...you are putting a torsen in the car. Why would you be trying to remove axles from the hubs?


Same axles...unbolt at half shafts...drop open diff unit out, install torsen, rebolt halfshafts (price how much to send me the open diff carrier to 28025, NC) and profit.

Unless I am just totally missing what you are trying to accomplish.

Indeed. Unless by "frozen" you mean that they won't even rotate within their bearings, there is no problem here.

Even if your axles are the later one-piece style (cannot be unbolted at the diff) there's no reason for grief. Detach the knuckle from the control arms at both the upper and lower mounting points, and then prise the entire axle and hub assembly from the diff. Installation is the reverse.

^ That's a good idea. I will end up doing that because I want to be able to pull the axles out of them anyway, we're considering taking the knuckle+axle set to the shop and pressing them out.

i had that happen to one of my axles

i moved up to a larger size puller and broke the fucker instantly. basically, dont fuck around with pee wee herman-sized pullers

I've had to take the spindle off, position it on cinder blocks, then use a 25lb sledge. You'll want to align it after that because the spindle will bend.

Why are you so intent on removing the axle from the spindle? It's not necessary at all to install the new diff.

Because it's there, man!

Honestly I probably wont by the time I get home, but it's something that bothers me. Damn car.. Broke one of the six bolts for that U shaped assembly that bolts the rear end together, it's annoying as hell. Worked on 3 miatas so far and the same bolt broke every time (twice same, once on the other side).

Don't let it bug you. They seize on a lot of cars. I've replaced more than a couple of spindles because of it. General rule is that we let it soak in PB blaster for ~24hrs, and if it won't come out with the 12lb sledge after that we replace the entire assembly.

Yeah it was soaking overnight, looks like the tool mushroomed out one of the heads JUST ENOUGH to catch the threads and keep the nut off, so we'll file it down a bit. Otherwise the knuckles are off the car with the axles still on (the lower bolts were frozen too, wtf), had to rock it with a breaker while hitting the back with a hammer and soaking them in PB, after they moved a bit we hit it with the impact and off they went.

It's a shame I sold my old knuckles or I'd just swap. Lesson learned :P

Well, good news is everything is installed. Bad news is my driver's side axle seal is leaking, I only noticed because of the... SUPERB scent of burning gear oil on my exhaust. Guess I get to replace that, just glad it's only one of them.

they are cheap from mazda.

i paid ~$6 each for them.

new axle retainer clips are a good idea too at ~70 cents.