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Timing belt job on a VVT car, now rattle on start up

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Old 08-17-2015, 06:44 PM
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the one described in the post
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Old 08-18-2015, 09:32 AM
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0.5-1 second long rattle on start up after the car has sat for 6-8 hours or more. But sometimes doesn't do it.

Fun, huh?
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Old 08-18-2015, 11:45 AM
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Did you try to prime the oil system before starting ? Start it without clutch 3 cycles and start the car after. NB2 oil pump have tighter tolerances, maybe this is causing the noise...

Anyway, it's free to try !
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Old 08-18-2015, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by joyrider
Did you try to prime the oil system before starting ? Start it without clutch 3 cycles and start the car after. NB2 oil pump have tighter tolerances, maybe this is causing the noise...

Anyway, it's free to try !
You want me to start it without the clutch?
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Old 08-18-2015, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by concealer404
You want me to start it without the clutch?
I believe he means try to crank it without putting the clutch in.
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Old 08-18-2015, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by shuiend
I believe he means try to crank it without putting the clutch in.

It won't crank if i do that...
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Old 08-18-2015, 09:02 PM
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Disable the interlock you weenie.
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Old 08-19-2015, 10:10 AM
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Geez sorry, crank the car 3-4 times before starting it to prime your oil pump thus system
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Old 08-19-2015, 01:46 PM
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Pull the cam sensor pigtail, crank the car until you see oil pressure, re-connect the cam sensor pigtail and close the hood, crank the car and start.

How to prime 101.
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Old 08-19-2015, 03:53 PM
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Or pull the fuel pump relay, crank until primed, reinstall relay. Anything wrong with this?
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Old 08-19-2015, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by concealer404
Found some noise on Miata.net about the VVT cars not liking "heavier" oil like the Rotella T6.

Any truth behind that?
I run 10-30 in my VVT motor. But 100% that's not your issue with the noise on startup. Running heavier oil might cause the VVT to do weird things in really cold temps though (over or under shoot the target).

My bet is the actuator is bad and bleeding down/loosing oil. Thus the noise on startup. Solution would be replace actuator with a new one, good luck finding a used one that's good.

Also worth trying: Unplug the electrical connector that goes to the control valve. This will leave the cam fully retarded at all times. See if the noise is gone with it disconnected. If the noise is still there it's the VVT actuator.

FWIW I've took my VVT actuator apart and put it back together twice now, and it works fine. When you put yours back together, did you keep it perfectly absolutely clean? I can't remember but isn't there a check valve in there? Perhaps it's stuck and letting the system bleed down.
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Old 08-19-2015, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by patsmx5
I run 10-30 in my VVT motor. But 100% that's not your issue with the noise on startup. Running heavier oil might cause the VVT to do weird things in really cold temps though (over or under shoot the target).

My bet is the actuator is bad and bleeding down/loosing oil. Thus the noise on startup. Solution would be replace actuator with a new one, good luck finding a used one that's good.

Also worth trying: Unplug the electrical connector that goes to the control valve. This will leave the cam fully retarded at all times. See if the noise is gone with it disconnected. If the noise is still there it's the VVT actuator.

FWIW I've took my VVT actuator apart and put it back together twice now, and it works fine. When you put yours back together, did you keep it perfectly absolutely clean? I can't remember but isn't there a check valve in there? Perhaps it's stuck and letting the system bleed down.

d00d.

I've had 3 different actuators in this thing. Pretty sure it's not the actuator itself at this point.
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Old 08-19-2015, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by concealer404
d00d.

I've had 3 different actuators in this thing. Pretty sure it's not the actuator itself at this point.
I read the thread, you've tried 3 used ones, one had loose bolts/has been apart before too. Good luck, I still think it's the actuator.

Where is the 1 way valve? That's where I'd be looking, it's likely leaking. Is it in the vvt actuator?
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Old 08-19-2015, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by patsmx5
I read the thread, you've tried 3 used ones, one had loose bolts/has been apart before too. Good luck, I still think it's the actuator.

Where is the 1 way valve? That's where I'd be looking, it's likely leaking. Is it in the vvt actuator?
So you think the chances are that not only did i not put the first one back together right, but the second one was also definitely bad, and the one with less than 60k miles on it that had never been apart is also bad.

I don't know where the 1 way valve is, what it looks like, or what i'm looking for. I don't vvt. For this very reason.

I'm 3 hours away from this car. I'll see if anything changes if he primes it.
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Old 08-19-2015, 04:39 PM
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there's no 1way valve that I know of. oil control valve sends more/less pressure to the mechanism, and all of it drains back
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Old 04-10-2018, 09:37 AM
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Jesus, what did i get myself into.
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Old 04-10-2018, 09:40 AM
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Just VVT things.

I ended up doing the timing belt job again on this thing just on the offchance there was a failing tensioner or bad pulley somewhere. There wasn't.

Then i rebuilt the VVT system with the MR kit. It didn't help.

Car continues to rattle on startup from time to time to this day. Isn't throwing codes, runs fine. Noise sounds like it's coming direct from the actuator. I don't think either of us are interested in continuing to throw actuators at the damn thing. They're expensive and at this point the cumulative cost of a 4th one exceeds that of a new motor if this thing grenades.
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Old 04-10-2018, 10:02 AM
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This post has me really excited for my VVT swap... I thank the ******* Lord above I didn't get drunk and dissect the actuator one boring night.
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Old 04-10-2018, 10:09 AM
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Yeah i'm good on VVT.
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Old 04-10-2018, 01:51 PM
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Ben, have you tried a brand new actuator from Mazda, or just continued to put used ones in it?

As I understand it, inside the actuator there is a spring-loaded pin which locks the actuator in place at start-up. Oil pressure then builds, fills the actuator, and un-locks the actuator once it's got enough oil pressure to operate. My assumption is that the pin is not locking the actuator, which means it's free to flop around until oil pressure builds up.

Acamas has this issue, I've had two used actuators in it so far. I've never had this issue with any other VVT motor (and I've been through a few). I currently have a brand new actuator on the shelf for it but I haven't gotten around to swapping it.
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