tips for high boost/horsepower
 

i figured we might be able to get some good info to add to the FAQ that isnt covered too much.

what are some keys for running higher boost/power (250whp+ ish)?

we all have read on here the stock motor will hold about 250wheel as long as your tune is decent, but not much more is really talked about.

for example, when do you need to upgrade your coils? or go to a COP or aftermarket system? spark plug gap? (.25-.30 seem to be most popular) when is it a must to run a duel feed fuel rail? when/if ever do we need to upgrade our fuel lines? what are the first internal parts to be upgraded? what power level are the stock pistons/rods/crank/rings etc good up too? and so on.

there are plenty people running around 300 on stock internals, everything you do at that point is for safety really.
Once you start pushing over that is when you really need to upgrade things.
Dual feed is a must to richen up #4 cyl.
Ignition is always good to upgrade since stock blows balls, so that's neither here nor there.
Guts wise, rings are the known weak link and then rods. We all know about the OP gears, too. Other than that, all other block work is really for more power.
Any head work is really for more power due to better flow, and as far as valvetrain goes thats for higher revvs, also for more power, not a must.

The big thing, for big power, you kind of have to do it all at once, not like lower power set ups where you upgrade as you go.

I heard underdrive pulleys can be bad but that might just be a rumor.


better cooling via a higher capacity radiator and a corrective coolant reroute.

this looks like the begining of a really usefull thread. :bigtu:

X2 subscribed for sure

I would say to you will want your cooling system right. Go ahead and do that so it's proficient. Our motors lack in this area and keeping heat in check is important.

Some will say you need to upgrade your ignition for higher HP, but I think that's not necessary. Run .020 gap and you'll be fine. It's only a problem if it doesn't spark. Some speculate their's 2 hp and smoother idle to be had, but IMO it's not a must by any means to make big HP.

I would recommend running 20-40 or 20-50 weight synthetic oil for a FI motor.

Also, many will tell you the rods are weak, but I never see people bend rods. I believe they're fine to 400whp if you keep your RPMs at 7K or below. It's high RPMs that kill rods, not torque.

Basically detonation is what kills 99% of miata engines at high HP levels. It's not that making 350whp pretzels your rods and punches the ring landings off the pistons from the marginally increased cylinder pressures. Double your HP and cylinder pressures go up 30%. Detonate and they go up 1000%. Which do you think breaks your shit?

I'm planing to make 300-350whp on my stock motor this summer. I'll be watching this thread for sure.

while we are on the oil thing. deisel oil like shell rotella is GREAT stuff. its bacisally made for turbos, and has high detergent to keep your motor clean.

I personally think 20-50 is a bit wide of a viscosity range for a turbo oil. 5w-30 is ok, 10w-30 is better. If you can do it where you live I would say a straight 30w or 50w would be best. Just the way I've been taught.

PS: Corky agrees a straight viscosity oil is best, and thats plenty enough proof for me

what about something like M1 0w40 which is the factory fill for turbo Porches I think?

10w-40 would be better than 0w-40, the least distance from the cold to warm rating is best. Straight 40 weight oil is straight 40 weight oil, no additives to make it work good in cold weather.

the key with high HP motors is dealing with heat and creating better efficiency.

For what it's worth, I found that my lifters really like Mobil1 0w40. I run it year round, and while it does tend to come out a bit blackish, the engine hasn't complained so far.

good info so far. looks like i will up the boost with no worries execpt for when my rear-end will explode. i have a dual feed rail, just did a coolant re-route, lowered the plug gap to .28ish.

you of all people should know that without at least one pcpro that's a ticking time bomb...oh wait:bang:

:rofl: i have a pcpro on the valve cover just to let the motor know who is boss.

i just want to say that a 1.6 with a t3/t4 rides the fuck out at 15-16psi!!!!!

Amen to that. I used to run it in my motorcycle, and now in the Miata and the VR6. Can't say there's a better oil available, although that's as subjective as it gets.

It appears knock is the biggest fear factor leading to engine destruction. What are the primary causes of and best ways to prevent knock?!?

For oil advice in general, go here and read/search: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

Based on what I've learned there, I've been happily running german castrol 0w30 in my WRXs for years and I'll be running it in the project Miata once I do the timing belt & tranny swap.

that's what lead me to think that M1 0w40 might be good to try.

i think:

• timing too advanced - get better timing control, retard timing
• air intake temps too high - 1. Get more efficient intercooler - bigger and/or provide it with more air from the front of the car. 2. bigger turbo
• not enough fuel - bigger injectors, more fuel pressure, and/or better fuel control controller

The answer to this question is the answer to making big power on stock motors.

If you like your synthetics I wouldnt reccoment Mobil 1. Rumor has it M1 isn't a TRUE full synthetic anymore, even though the bottle ays it, like several others out there. Google it, look around.

i read that too. what i read is that M1 sued another oil company for saying they were full syn when they were not, M1 lost so it started to do the same thing.

This is the story everyone takes to be the truth

I would say that is the key to making big power on ANY motor really. Or at least getting the very most out of what a motor has to offer.

And the real truth is within the link I posted.

I read about this M1 conspiracy a while back, and decided to look at other oils. Using information gathered from the manufacturer's spec sheets, I put together a little chart tracking what I felt to be certain key properties and comparing them between M1 and the three underdogs. Here's the chart:

http://img34.picoodle.com/img/img34/...sm_222e940.gif

V@ indicates viscosity at the stated temperature. All else being equal, I prefer an oil with the lowest viscosity at low temp (to keep oil pressure manageable first thing on a cold morning) and with the highest viscosity when hot, to maintain good oil pressure when the engines' a blazin.

VI is Viscosity Index. All else being equal, a lower number is supposed to be better, though not even BobIsTheOilGuy seems to say why.

Pour and Flash are pretty self-evident. Lower is better for pour, higher is better for flash.

Of all the oils here, M1 0w40 has the highest viscosity at 100°C except for RedLine 10w40 and Amsoil AMO (both by ~ half a point) and those two have much higher viscosities at 40°.

Here's an interesting sidebar- Amsoil ACD is their diesel-rated 10w40. Its viscosity at 100° is more in line with a w30 oil, and it was only only Amsoil product I looked at which had no data at all on the HTHS 150° test.

I only browsed lightly on that site, and see nowhere where it mentions M1 either still being or not being synthetic. In a couple places it does state the protection will be the same. My point was if you want to use a synthetic be weary of M1, not 'SYTHETIC IS TEH UBER LUBER' and "SYNTHETIC PWNS ALL".

I personally feel that the synthetic oil is more consistant as far as molecule size, and contain less contaminants(which a good oil filter would take care of, but why make it work harder than it has to). However I would like you to take note that I said I personally and that this is just my opinion, everyone is entitled to thier own.

if you really want syn, there is a syn rotella now

Back on subject...

key to big power....T.....................U.................. .N....................E

Back to Subject:

Quoting myself:
It really doesn't take more than a well thought out design (reduce restriction, improve flow), good turbo choice (turbine large enough in both diameter and a/r that can spin fast & free enough, compressor large enough to flow the desired amount within the heat efficiency island), good thermal management (reroute, afrs, IC, etc) and a good tune (no ping, timing in check).

If I wasn't so worried about my stock 1.6L block, I could achieve 300rwhp on pump gas. Seeing 250rwhp at 13psi so far, however, I do worry about my stock internals, so I only boost within reason, keeping it around 200rwtq max.