Took it in the rear, cant fix the tow in my rear. Where to start?
At a drift event and I took a gnarly hit to the back wheel. Ever since then my tow has been out 2.4 degrees. Ive looked up under and nothing is obviously bent, I tried having it aligned and they said that they couldnt pull it in any further than .2 of a degree. Im okay with replacing arms and all parts underneath until I find it, but Id like to know where to start so I dont blow money on the wrong stuff thats perfectly fine!
Thank you my freinds! <3 |
1) It's "toe."
2) Look for things that are bent. Replace those. Could literally be anything. |
Originally Posted by BuckyB34
(Post 1481346)
At a drift event and I took a gnarly hit to the back wheel. Ever since then my tow has been out 2.4 degrees. Ive looked up under and nothing is obviously bent, I tried having it aligned and they said that they couldnt pull it in any further than .2 of a degree. Im okay with replacing arms and all parts underneath until I find it, but Id like to know where to start so I dont blow money on the wrong stuff thats perfectly fine!
Thank you my freinds! <3 2) then try not to crash |
Originally Posted by BuckyB34
(Post 1481346)
At a drift event and I took a gnarly hit to the back wheel. Ever since then my tow has been out 2.4 degrees. Ive looked up under and nothing is obviously bent, I tried having it aligned and they said that they couldnt pull it in any further than .2 of a degree. Im okay with replacing arms and all parts underneath until I find it, but Id like to know where to start so I dont blow money on the wrong stuff thats perfectly fine!
Thank you my freinds! <3 Next, check the upright. Same as arms, compare to known good parts. Finally, check the subframe. It take a little more work to check the subframe because I've seen ones that looked straight until you compared them to a good one. |
Try to duplicate the hit on the other side so you'll be symmetrical.
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/\ winner right here :laugh:
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Originally Posted by Midtenn
(Post 1481351)
Start with the obvious. Pull the arms and compare them to known good ones. If you have a friend with spare parts, thats a good place to go. If not, pull both sides and compare.
Next, check the upright. Same as arms, compare to known good parts. Finally, check the subframe. It take a little more work to check the subframe because I've seen ones that looked straight until you compared them to a good one. Also thank you for being the only reply who wasn't a troll. :) |
Originally Posted by concealer404
(Post 1481347)
1) It's "toe."
2) Look for things that are bent. Replace those. Could literally be anything. |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1481349)
1) start by not drifting the wrong car
2) then try not to crash |
Wasn’t trolling
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Originally Posted by adamiata
(Post 1481356)
Try to duplicate the hit on the other side so you'll be symmetrical.
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why even bother fixing the car?
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For all that work, I'd just go to the junkyard and drop an entire rear subframe with all the stuff out of a different car.
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he's gonna crash it again so may as well just crash the other side and let the car fix itself
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Check the bottom bolt that goes through the upright. They tend to bend upon impact |
go to V8 roadsters and but their fancy billet arms on credit so when you hit a wall you know not to do it again.
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Miatas have a low polar moment of inertia which makes them really really really shity drift cars. Just because it's a rear wheel drive car does not mean it's a f****** drift car. The reasons why 240s and RX7 are drifted so often is because they have a higher polar moment of inertia which makes it much easier to carry a drift angle. The low polar moment of inertia is what makes Miatas really great as road race cars and kick the s*** out of dogs like Mustangs and 240s on the racetrack. It's also why morons more regularly wreck Miatas when they try to drift them. Use the right tool for the job and stop driving the price of used parts up unnecessarily.
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i have an entire rear nb subframe, control arms and all, great shape. for sale pm me if you are interested.
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