elesjuan

iTrader: (11)

The sensor that shipped with my LC1 was bad from the start. Never EVER did read correctly, it was either 7:1 or 20:1 checked RIGHT FROM THE LC1 using Logview!!!

Replace the sensor with an identical unit I had laying around, which worked PERFECT for a month? Tonight, I just went and drove the car, noticed my wideband display is freaking out... Checked Logview again and it claims the car is idling at 7:1 and when you goose the throttle / drive it goes 7:1, 20:1, 7:1, 20:1..

I'm ready to trash this piece of **** and look for another solution!! THIS IS ******* RETARDED!!! The sensor is mounted 10mm from the ******* cat in the EXACT 12 O'Clock position!! WHAT THE ****!?!?!?!? :v ash:

Marc D

iTrader: (7)

wow. chuck that POS and just get an AEM. my buddy had nothing but problems with it too, had two sensors go bad on him in less than a week. then the entire controller crapped out. go figure.

elesjuan

iTrader: (11)

What are the chances the ground isn't adequate? I just realized something..


When I built my megasquirt boomslang harness I broke out ALL the grounds and attached them to the chassis of the old ECU case the harness is located inside, then the ECU case is bolted to the body.. I hacked off the connector from the factory o2 sensor and wired up the LC1 using all the factory wiring which goes to grounding point next to the throttle body. Also all the ECU stuff is grounded both there and at the ECU..


Today when I did my A/C mod to the boomslang harness I don't remember if I bolted that case back down to the body behind the seat.. So basically the ECU isn't properly grounded in all locations?

Vashthestampede

iTrader: (17)

Son of a bitch I just ordered a LC1.....

Vash-

cheap_sticker05

iTrader: (1)

That could VERY well be the issue. I had a similar problem with my LM-1. It would fry the sensors all the time, I finally found it to be the ground.

mikeflys1

iTrader: (2)

Damn....i've had mine for like 3 years and in 2 different cars now and i've never had a hiccup out of the thing.

turbobluemiata

iTrader: (8)

had the same problem when I swapped to the turbotony DP just had to do the reset/calibration that's in the manual and now it works fine

Eiffel

I've had a lot of trouble with my LC1, despite doing my utmost with grounding.

By chance, I read on the Innovate Motorsports forum that some LC1 controllers were defective, and would generate the same symptoms as poorly grounded units. After cross shipping a replacement unit directly with IM (rather than the vendor I got the unit from), my problems are gone.

Well worth checking with them if your LC1 needs replacement!

Note: I understand this hardware issue relates to the 6 wire version of the controller.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

I have a dedicated ground going from the LC-1 to the ECU grounds by the throttle body. Never had any issues. I've done a 1.6 install, we ran a dedicated ground to the block. He's never had any issues.

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

In the past mine did a random recalibration while the car was running.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Its probably a ground issue. Run all grounds from the LC1 directly to the Megasquirt grounds. But be sure to also connect that to the body, i used one of the ecu brackets.

elesjuan

iTrader: (11)

Pulled the sensor from the pipe, ran open air calibration, triple checked all grounds, reinstalled. Seems to have fixed the problem.. I hope!

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

LC-1s put hair on your chest.

compy

Avoid warming up the sensor prior to starting the car, especially if the car has been sitting for a while. This apparently really damages the sensor.

bryantaylor

iTrader: (5)

you got that backwards. you want to warm it up.


i had nothing but problems with my lc-1 too, but my AEM has been perfect from day 1

MikeRiv87

iTrader: (12)

Of the seven people including myself that I personally know own an LC1, only two have worked correctly since day 1. Compy is that other person... I say stay away from the LC1 unless you really want to be familiar with your downpipe's bunghole...


Steps i Usually take to get the other Five's working for an hour or two so they can tune:

1) Unscrew sensor and unplug from LC1 controller

2) turn ignition on for 1 minute

3) Turn off ignition, Plug in sensor, turn on ignition leaving it out of exhaust for heater and free air calibration

4) Do two more manual free air calibrations with the red button after i get a steady red light

5) Kill ignition reinstall sensor and hope it reads right long enough to do a few datalog runs.

Good Luck Vash... Try and cancel your order if you can

Apparently what it boils down to is a weak battery or bad grounds. If the lc1 drops below a certain voltage during cranking it will recalibrate itself in the exhaust and give fucked up readings.

mike_671

iTrader: (4)

Im putting that in my sig

miataspeed1point6

iTrader: (1)

Mine has been a pain in the *** too. It loves to auto-recalibrate. What makes it worse is that I have to pull the downpipe to get it out for the free air recal. I swear the next time it does it I'm buying an AEM.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

LC-1 separates men from boys.


or people who follow directions from the ones who dont.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Innovate has always been good about warranty stuff, unless you're a cheap **** and you bought it on eBay instead of from Speedware or DIYAutotune like you should have. Mine came from Kelly, and it's worked since day 1, except for a few small hiccups which were solved with a new, proper ground.