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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 975623)
Unless I'm mistaken, it requires removing the engine.
Why you ask? Because that metal piece seals against the oil pan. And in order to remove the oil pan, you need to either remove the subframe and work on your back, or do what everybody else does and remove the engine. But don't listen to me, last time I suggested removing the engine it was the damn cam seals. I'm hoping (more like wishing) the sub-frame does not have to come off in order to replace the seal but you would know more than I. Any one confirm this? Any idea how this kind of job compares to the job I just completed? More effort, less? Because I'm dead after this job already. Someone told me before I think about replacing that seal that I check the distributor o-ring is not leaking oil down into the bell housing which he believes can be a possible cause (I have no idea how though). |
Is there any oil behind the flywheel?
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Originally Posted by Stealth97
(Post 975632)
Is there any oil behind the flywheel?
I took some photos and can send some it you would like to see. |
Originally Posted by zoomzoomzoom
(Post 975633)
Nope. Prior to replacing the rear main seal the only oil I could see was over the rear main seal and I assumed it ran down over the oil pan seal. Was plenty of oil in the bell housing. May I ask why?
I took some photos and can send some it you would like to see. Correction. misinterpreted what you were asking. Yes, oil was behind the flywheel Here are the Pictures or the oil leak. https://plus.google.com/photos/10473...55752837381345 |
Does look like the rear main was seeping a bit, and possibly the back of the oil pan some, but I think I'm just seeing residue from the clutch dust there. I never replaced the seal, but you should be able to do it in the car, I think the rear main seal housing only has to come off when removing the crankshaft.
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There's no distributor on the miata, it's a CAS, or cam angle sensor. It's one bolt (same one you use to adjust timing) and you can pull it backwards. On a stock engine it'll require removing the coil pack and such, and it can be tight working back there. Once it's on use plenty of oil on the o-ring putting it back in, and loosen those two bolt for the cap to make your life easier. And obviously re-time when you're done. Use a genuine mazda o-ring.
You might wanna try some UV dye in your oil to double check it's the CAS and not rear main seal stuff. Hard to tell, cause if you find out it's not the CAS you can't see if its the RMS or the RMS metal bracket. |
Well Folks,
I can not thank you all enough for helping me through this exercise. Seems the rear main is no longer leaking. Perhaps there was some residual oil in the bell housing, but its no longer leaking. The car has passed It's roadworthy assessment. i can now sleep easily. Regards, zzz |
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