Thank you guys for all the inputs! So I'll just go top to bottom. I don't plan on making 250whp on a K Swap. With a build its possible but I was saying that in any circumstance I dont want to exceed 250whp. I have a '09 STI with 300whp and even though its 1000lbs heavier, 300whp has been enough for me on the track. I completely agree that mechanical empathy and research will prevent failures. If the K Swap is maybe $1-2k more than a reliable turbo build, is it worth not having to deal with the slightly more complex turbo system in a BP? As well as the weight savings. Im not saying a K Swap drops 100lbs but accessories aside the K swap drops 30lbs over the BP and that doesnt even include the turbo kit. It might sound like im being biased to the K Swap but im just trying to make an educated decision with help from you guys before I drop $$$$ on anything.

Im in the Omaha area. Ive seen you guys are based out of Chicago Metro and have seen your customer support on forums and those have been major factors in my consideration. Do you have any events in the Chicago area in the coming months?

If i where ever to do it again, I'd K-swap. It's a newer motor, it's stout, it's a high performer with plenty of head room. I'd love to turbo one, but still wondering about speedometer solutions if using a bmw trans.

Im in the same boat. To be completely honest, with my 6258 the car can be driven in 6th gear down to about 20 mph. It really took a lot of fun out of drives. It made driving in the twisties a lot different. No downshifting, ever, and its not that exciting until triple digits.. It just isnt laboring at 3k rpm and is still slamming you into the seat. I think a K would be more fun.

two completely different uses you're describing. I agree that being able to beat on a car, explore limits of cornering, drive flat out 10/10 is a whole lot of fun.

Then you drive that same car daily or on flat/straight roads and it's so boring you fall asleep at the wheel.

Meanwhile a fat torquey turbo powerband will keep most below 20% throttle in the twisties because both the car and the driver are simply overpowered, which does get frustrating in the corners from time to time, but feels a-ma-zing daily driving and in "point and shoot" situations and suddenly the situation is backwards.

Why not have both? :D

I think you are underestimating the cost of a kswap or overestimating a reliable turbo build. You can literally buy the ~$5k FM2 kit, slap on some hood vents and an oil cooler and do all the HPDE's you want without issue. My car has been doing exactly that for about 7 years now. Oil and basic consumables are all it has needed. 220whp 1.8.

Kswap you're looking at about $10k+ realistically. Yes I'd love one, but I'd argue the cost isn't as close as you think for a recreational HPDE build. If we're talking actual racecar then things start to even out as a turbo bp needs a few more things to handle that level of driving.

K swaps used to be $10k+, but with the new parts available we've typically been getting people into 220whp k24a2 setups for around $8500. NAs are still a bit more expensive due to the fuel system. Although we don't see it often, you can still do a budget build and make 200whp by using a cheap S2000 intake manifold/throttle body and the stock TSX exhaust manifold.

Yeah. It sucks

Start doing some searches. The number of hits you find may give you enough information.

You like your engine on the end of a big lever, right?

I know Justin @ Thing 3 Racing (https://www.thing3racing.com/) runs a J32 in his AER/WRL Endurocar. User name slammed200.

Chiming in here from an endurance race team owner's perspective, reliability and seat time are huge. I also hesitate to recommend that ANYONE add a single horsepower when learning how to drive on track. Honestly, and this is always the last thing anyone wants to hear, power doesn't help you become a better driver. I'll get off my pedal-stool now since that's not what you asked but...

Now - about the J swap. I've had to completely redo just about every aspect of the J swap components to make it suitable for endurance racing and to my knowledge I'm the only one racing it regularly in these types of events. It's a hell of a car to drive now after all of that, smooth torques for days on days, but getting here wasn't easy at all. I'm not going to comment on the other options listed other than to say simple is sweet but you can swing that tradeoff based on your goals. Reliability and seat time are my main concerns.

There is also the ecotec swap that seems like a decent option. A little less desirable than a k series, but also it's a cheaper swap.

There's a really neat manifold swap that I'm a big fan of. It generates really good power. I'm pretty sure it allows you to run a turbo on your existing engine.

Sort of like a turbo manifold?

Have to agree. I daily the turbo. It's a hoot to squirt around and break the tires free at will.

For the most part, I track a 949 95R project clone. Pretty much SuperMiata S2 specification. Fantastic track car that never misses a beat.

Sometimes I'll borrow my daughter's '15 PRHT GT with all the bells and whistles for date night.

You can never have enough Miatas. Are the '19s out yet?

Hasn't flying miata been doing this since the mid 90's? Obviously TSE has refined and taken things to the next level with the EFR turbos, but I was under the impression that the full FM kits did this pretty handily.