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-   -   Water Lines (https://www.miataturbo.net/general-miata-chat-9/water-lines-7606/)

RotorNutFD3S 02-20-2007 11:38 PM

Water Lines
 
So, I'm still learning the best places to go to get certain parts for Miatas, especially now that I have one, but I had a problem tonight.
The water line, either the feed or the return from the heater core (it's the one on the left if you are facing the firewall, kinda curves up under itself and goes behind the engine), burst on me tonight. I want to just go ahead and replace both of them, because it's a '95, they appear to be the original hoses, and they're both in close proximity to the turbo and manifold.
So besides ordering online because I need them now (have a Miata meet to be at in Atlanta this Friday!), or going to the dealership, because there isn't one really close to me, I hate their prices, and work won't let me leave to go for that long, what's the best place to source for these two hoses?
I have within 5 miles a NAPA, O'Reiley's, and Advance Auto Parts.
Thanks!

Atlanta93LE 02-20-2007 11:47 PM

Any of those places should have one. Just search for heater hose.

Savington 02-20-2007 11:49 PM

OEM is HIGHLY recommended for these two parts. It becomes a major PITA if you have to fiddle with improperly formed hoses. Have Rosenthal Mazda overnight you the two hoses. When you remove the old ones, DO NOT PULL THEM OFF OF THE HEATER CORE. You WILL bend/break the brass nipples and then you've really screwed the pooch. Trust me, it's not fun driving your car around with a self-imposed 4000rpm rev limit because the bent-ass nipple sprays coolant out at an alarming rate above 4500rpm. The brass nipples may as well be molten, they are so soft. Cut the old hoses off the nipple, and then cut the scrap lengthwise and unwind it from the nipple. Another tip is to change the straighter one (the one you didn't break) first, as it makes access to the other one a great deal easier. Also obtain the smallest pair of needle-nose visegrips available and save yourself the aggravation of trying to un-clamp that spring clamp behind the motor with any of the other tools you have.

Also, the normal cause for that particular hose to break is the oil that's dripping off your leaky CAS is pooling at the bottom and eating away the rubber. :) When you've got the hose off, change the CAS o-ring as well. The OEM size is 1/8" x 1.5"ID x 1.75"OD. Under a dollar at your local auto parts store.

RotorNutFD3S 02-21-2007 09:08 AM

Ok, I'm going to try for OEM, but may have to go another route if I can't get them to me from the most local dealership today.
And I always cut the hose instead of pull, something I learned the hard way on my first RX7. :)
Also, thanks for the heads up on the CAS. Probably would not have prepared for that until I saw the oil residue on the hose.
And in case anyone else searches for changing the CAS o-ring, I found a nice walkthrough for both 1.6 and 1.8 engines HERE.

RotorNutFD3S 02-21-2007 08:10 PM

OK. Got the hoses off at the moment, but while I'm thinking about it, what would be good to use to protect the new hoses from the heat of the manifold and turbo?


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