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What is the best year miata to buy?
Obviously talking stock here. Looking to buy my first, but not sure what to get. Obviously the early 90's are cheaper, but would it be best to try and get a 99 -2000 for the head, etc? Or just worry about 95 after with the 1.8 and torsen diff?
Thanks |
94. Possibility of a torsen, 1.8l engine, OBD1. You can always buy a 99 head later.
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Why is OBD1 a good thing? (or before they didn't even have OBD1?)
How about this as a starter car? http://tucson.craigslist.org/ctd/1704681165.html |
OBD1 so you dont have to fk around with OBD2 (plug-in) emissions tests. with OBD1 you can pass with an aftermarket EMS, since it's just a tailpipe test. my escort passes no problem.
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I'd love a 99 sport.
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Originally Posted by Jeff_Ciesielski
(Post 561293)
94. Possibility of a torsen, 1.8l engine, OBD1. You can always buy a 99 head later.
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We need a lot more information to be able to answer this question.
What do you intend to do with the car as far as modifications? What is it gonig to be used for on a daily basis? Will it be your only car? What value do you place on comfort? What is your budget? Does it have to be stock? How modified can it be? What are your mechanical skills? For $10k, you can get a really clean, low mileage '04, or a hi-mileage MSM, or a fully built 90's turbo, or a early 0-'s mildly modified, or a trashed any year and dump a bunch of money into it. What year is the best for a guy who wants to be comfortable in the rain over long distances every day is not the best for a guy who wants 300whp during the summer and occasional trackdays. Answer the questions I ask above for some quality answers. From a stock performance standpoint, it's a tossup between an '94-R and a '99 Sport. As far as that one you linked... I think they call that color "merlot", and only the biggest homo wine&cheesers drive those. He also doesn't mention a price... any douche selling a car on CL that doesn't list a price has something to hide and is obviously a small slime dealership or maybe even a auction-type dude selling them out of his driveway. In any case, he wants you to call so he can run his slick salesman pitch to you and tell you how rare that color is and why he wants $2k more than all the other Miatas on CL. |
Originally Posted by RotorNutFD3S
(Post 561330)
Don't forget 1995, those are OBDI as well.
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1998.....it's full of win.
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Originally Posted by Doppelgänger
(Post 561335)
1998.....it's full of win.
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Originally Posted by buffon01
(Post 561340)
Thats like the square root of a negative number in the miata world....... its imaginary
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Originally Posted by doppelgänger
(Post 561335)
1998.....it's full of win.
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I love my 1998, but 1994 is the absolute best year in terms of compromising and getting what you need.
The all-out best combonation is my car...the 1991 chassis is the lightest, it has a 99 torsen (1-piece axles), NA1.8 torsen pumpkin, and a 99 motor. |
Originally Posted by buffon01
(Post 561340)
Thats like the square root of a negative number in the miata world....... its imaginary
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Originally Posted by buffon01
(Post 561334)
and OBD 1.5 and OBD II .... :eek4:
Originally Posted by buffon01
(Post 561340)
Thats like the square root of a negative number in the miata world....... its imaginary
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Originally Posted by RotorNutFD3S
(Post 561347)
Yeah, well, not that many were like that.
Unless you live in Europe where they actually have 1998 Miatas. Im curious to see how the Europe 1998 look like |
Originally Posted by samnavy
(Post 561331)
We need a lot more information to be able to answer this question.
What do you intend to do with the car as far as modifications? What is it gonig to be used for on a daily basis? Will it be your only car? What value do you place on comfort? What is your budget? Does it have to be stock? How modified can it be? What are your mechanical skills? For $10k, you can get a really clean, low mileage '04, or a hi-mileage MSM, or a fully built 90's turbo, or a early 0-'s mildly modified, or a trashed any year and dump a bunch of money into it. What year is the best for a guy who wants to be comfortable in the rain over long distances every day is not the best for a guy who wants 300whp during the summer and occasional trackdays. Answer the questions I ask above for some quality answers. From a stock performance standpoint, it's a tossup between an '94-R and a '99 Sport. As far as that one you linked... I think they call that color "merlot", and only the biggest homo wine&cheesers drive those. He also doesn't mention a price... any douche selling a car on CL that doesn't list a price has something to hide and is obviously a small slime dealership or maybe even a auction-type dude selling them out of his driveway. In any case, he wants you to call so he can run his slick salesman pitch to you and tell you how rare that color is and why he wants $2k more than all the other Miatas on CL. What do you intend to do with the car as far as modifications? Turbo evetually, suspension. This will be a DD beater/ track car for Auto-X, track eventsWhat is it gonig to be used for on a daily basis? No need, maybe a DD to my Audi. Will it be your only car? No, 2003 Audi A4 as well What value do you place on comfort? Not much for this. What is your budget? Depends. Does it have to be stock? Not necessarily, but would like to start stock. How modified can it be? See above. What are your mechanical skills? so so, lots of friends who can help though. As far as the car above is That car is listed at $6k, which seems to be good compared to the book value. I like it b/c it is newer, has the stronger head/1.8/diff/etc I'm not too worried about the color, though I prefer a blue. |
Originally Posted by Doppelgänger
(Post 561346)
Not true. Learn your facts fool.
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Can one not pass OBD2 emissions if they have MS ECU?
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Fuck just buy a pre-turbod something year. You will save $ and it is easier and cheaper to improve on someone else's fuck ups than make your own.
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I would like to learn to drive a miata stock, then upgrade slowly. Driver mod is the most important ;)
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Originally Posted by jbrown7815
(Post 561356)
Can one not pass OBD2 emissions if they have MS ECU?
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Originally Posted by jbrown7815
(Post 561356)
Can one not pass OBD2 emissions if they have MS ECU?
Originally Posted by therieldeal
(Post 561322)
OBD1 so you dont have to fk around with OBD2 (plug-in) emissions tests. with OBD1 you can pass with an aftermarket EMS, since it's just a tailpipe test. my escort passes no problem.
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Originally Posted by jbrown7815
(Post 561356)
Can one not pass OBD2 emissions if they have MS ECU?
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Originally Posted by jbrown7815
(Post 561353)
I like it b/c it is newer, has the stronger head/1.8/diff/etc I'm not too worried about the color, though I prefer a blue.
Originally Posted by faeflora
(Post 561357)
Fuck just buy a pre-turbod something year. You will save $ and it is easier and cheaper to improve on someone else's fuck ups than make your own.
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Originally Posted by buffon01
(Post 561364)
Here is your sign
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Originally Posted by jbrown7815
(Post 561370)
He didn't say I couldn't pass. He jsut said you wouldn't have to worry about it :fawk:
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Originally Posted by buffon01
(Post 561374)
Im gonna let that one slide because of your avatar, but shit is easier and I would say cheaper with the earlier model. :noob:
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Originally Posted by jbrown7815
(Post 561375)
:repost:
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For the money, buy a '94 that somebody has already started on. You can find'em that already have some suspension stuff and a rollbar to be a bit ahead. Guys sell cars just like that all the time on this forum.
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1998
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04 MSM or 02SE only because I have one lol. The FAQ on miata.net will be a good place for you to look btw.
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Originally Posted by buffon01
(Post 561354)
Hey asshole, I thought it got discontinued in 98. I guess I was wrong :crx:
lol Side note- this thread reeks of troll. It's such a loaded question....ther eis no specific answer...just preference. |
Well it's not a troll thread. I am looking to buy a Miata, and would like to know what year is the best to look out for.
Reasonable question if you ask me :dunno: |
Advantages of the 94. 1.8L engine. Lowest compression engine. Last year of OBD1. Torsen rear end. Last year with a real oil pressure gauge. Oil port in block for turbo. Bigger brakes.
1.8L - extra displacement doesn't hurt. Also corrected some problems with the early 1.6 short nose crank. Doesn't have the bottom end problems that crop up in the 99. Low compression engine is good for boost. OBD1 means just a sniffer test for emissions. OBD2 and you have to have the stock ecu in place for them to plug into. Torsen is a good rear end for the track unless you go huge HP. Earlier 1.6L years had viscous. Real oil pressure gauge means you don't have to buy one aftermarket - minor bonus. The block oil port is just a convenience and ease of install thing. The 1.8 cars have more brake under them than the earlier 1.6's. The stock brakes with proper pads can take care of you just fine until you combine significant boost and heavy road coarse duty. That being said, people have and enjoy every year built. Each year has it's own issues. 94 just happens to be a pretty great year for people wanting to go FI. |
Originally Posted by faeflora
(Post 561357)
Fuck just buy a pre-turbod something year. You will save $ and it is easier and cheaper to improve on someone else's fuck ups than make your own.
But I like knowing where everything is on my car. |
Originally Posted by jbrown7815
(Post 561356)
Can one not pass OBD2 emissions if they have MS ECU?
i think sombody on here said "the NB is a better car but the NA is a better roadster" |
06+ is the best
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1990 because the crank is lighter.
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Originally Posted by jbrown7815
(Post 561360)
I would like to learn to drive a miata stock, then upgrade slowly. Driver mod is the most important ;)
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Originally Posted by jbrown7815
(Post 561360)
I would like to learn to drive a miata stock, then upgrade slowly. Driver mod is the most important ;)
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:rofl: :love:
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Originally Posted by jbrown7815
(Post 561292)
Obviously talking stock here. Looking to buy my first, but not sure what to get. Obviously the early 90's are cheaper, but would it be best to try and get a 99 -2000 for the head, etc? Or just worry about 95 after with the 1.8 and torsen diff?
Thanks |
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