what brakes to handle 240whp on "the" track?
 

I don't really want to spend $1300 on the wilwoods because that's alot of money, and pads / rotors will be expensive to replace.

Will the '01 sport brakes with hawk hp+ get the job done (I'll run hawk blue or black if I must)? What about the rx7 rear brake convo?

Where can I buy this shit cheap, if I don't find them in a salvage yard?

Thanks.

I'd go with some of those new cobalt sports or some hawk blues maybe instead of HP+.

Buy these if hey're what you want. $300 at partsgroup.com
http://partsgroup.com/images/sales/IMG_3841.JPG
'01 big brake kit, look under sale items.

get some slotted rotors at least the rears dont get as much abuse so some good pads and slotted front rotors. the good ones like i have are 130 bucks from goodwin racing it greatly improves feel and stops glazing from multiple high speed woo downs.

At 170rwhp my 1.6 brakes could have probably cut it with the right pad. (got only fade with EBC Greenstuff, completely ate through a new set of EBC Redstuff..at least they didn't fade)

I upgraded to the 1.8L standard 10" brakes and so far on the street with just HP+s they are amazing. After installing them I drove Brad's miata with the same pads in a 1.6L size...there is no comparison.

I'm pretty damn sure that my $15 NAPA rotors with Blues will handle my +200rwhp next time I'm on the track. But only time will tell (I gotta get back on the track soon).

It's really all in the pad, but the extra braking surface helps a lot, so get the best race pad you can afford and go with the cheapest rotors you can find. I'm going with Blues with a dedicated NAPA rotor, shouldn't have any problems with them.

Right, I'd go with 1.8 brakes and a full race pad, but I don't want to switch pads for a monthly track day. I'm borderline on fade in my 1.6 at stock power with hp+ and motul rbf 600 in one corner at 80mph to 15mph threshold braking, downhill. If I brake late, I get fade. So i wonder if the 01 sport brakes are enough?

Will anyone sell me 2 longer brake lines for the sport brakes?

do you know if that includes the brackets, or do I reuse the 1.6 brackets?

I'm sure partsgroup will sell you the brake lines too. Probably just let you hav them.

Dhaark Might be selling his '99 brakes. Go check out his forsale thread.

I bet it comes with the brackets. Give him a call, he's always around during the week.

Be careful about the 01+ "big" brakes. Last time I went lookin' no-body made pads to fit those brakes. I know a autox guy with a 01+ that went down to normal 1.8 brakes, because of pad selection... and for un-sprung weight.

Stock 1.8 brakes, with upgraded pads.... would be the way to go for track.

Also... I would say, rotor swap at the track. Most "track" pads, are designed so they don't work properly driving to the store for milk, since they won't get hot enough.

Dave,

Standard 1.8 brakes and a 1.8 prop valve FTW

I'd like to run hp+ if possible, so I don't have to switch pads all the time. What pads will I need for 240whp? I'm pretty sure hp+ won't get the job done.

On the track, HP+ won't get the job done. I faded them at T-hill with stock power. You really have to switch pads to get the braking force you want. Hawk Blues will do it.

You could also try the Cobalt Sports and let us know how they work. I've been eyeing them myself.

Pads are so easy to change, just make swapping race pads part of the track regimen along with swapping tires. It will make your weekend FAR more enjoyable.

My roommate swears by carbotech pads on track days.

i love my potterfields. they seem to be holding up just fine.

carbotech + new blanks. check their site to see if they are still offering the pad+rotor package deal. the panther (?) race pad will_eat_the rotors, but man they take the heat exceptionally well. the hawk blues would be another excellent choice.

evertime i did a long event, i bought extra rotors, fluid, some tubing and silicone grease for the slides. i only experienced warpage once, but i was running hard with larger cars(porsches, m3s, etc.) in an experienced group. i was using the brakes to make passes by going deeper into the corners because my power was *just* matching most of the cars.

the silicone grease is imperative. you really just need to make certain your brakes are in tip top shape and you'll be fine. slotted or cross-drilled aren't necessary unless you plan to run in the rain.

if you get fade, pit, let the car cool, bleed the system.

oh, as far as tools go, just bring a set of sockets (10,12,14,17,19) a big pair of channel lock pliers (for compressing the caliper piston back in), one slotted, one phillips screwdriver, can of fluid, can of brake cleaner, tube of silicone grease, hand cleaner, an 8mm(?) bolt to release the rotors from the hubs, an extra set of rotors for the front, and good pair of work gloves. i know it soulnds like a lot, but you can fit it in a backpack and leave it in the pits. other items like zip ties, tape, extra clamps are useful. you don't want to bring a ton of things.

i like to disconnect the parking brake at the rear, i've over heated the rears and had the calpers stick back there. that sucked.

when i instructed, i would bring some tums or milk of magnesia because some people new to these events would be so nervous or excited, they would get nauseated.:gay: puke+closed face helmet = techna-color fishbowl.

Nopi sells brembo blanks for $30 f, $19 r.

Napa blanks for the 1.8 brakes are $17 front, $15 rear, just in case anyone else isn't familiar with that option. So cheap there is no reason not to have dedicated front rotors.

I'm leaning this direction, with blue or black pads, and a set of rotors for teh track too.