What to do next? 94 turbo
 

I was hoping I can get some advice on what a sensible next mod would be for my car to keep it performing well and at its best. Currently I have a 1994 miata with a Garrett T25 turbo, FM manifold, Downpipe, FMIC, 2.5in Catback, 450 Injectors, heat shield, MBC, and a megasquirt v2. For suspension I have tien flex, rb hollow front sway bar, and 15x8 konigs with 205 bfg rivals. The car is used mainly for autox with maybe 1 track day a year.

I am at a loss now with how I should prioritize my future mods. I am still new to autox so my priority is getting through the day fist with no issues and 2nd with decent times. Here are the current mods that are on my radar.
1. Coolant Reroute
2. Larger radiator
3. Upgraded Brakes
4. Chassis stiffness (butterfly brace or roll bar)
5. looking for other options

I have about 700-1000 I can spend before the season starts. Any input? Or should I leave it as is and see where the first problem arises?

I'd go with that last option. If your car is solid now I'd just drive it as much as possible, get to know it, become a better driver, and as you get faster you'll need all the money you can save up to replace the stuff you'll start breaking.

Turn up boost knob to max boost. Or pinch off vacuum line to run allofit.

But it seems like you got a good build going. Coolant reroute will help even out your cooling across all cylinders and should be done. Roll bar might save you life one day so get one if you plan on doing any spirited driving.

The other stuff really depends on what you want to use the car for. If you track drive and find your having cooling issues then upgraded radiator and probably an oil cooler would help. this is less of an issue with auto cross. If you find you are having brake fade or want more controlled stopping power some brake mods will be in order. If your still using power steering then look into PS delete. Its by far my favorite mod and it's nearly free!

The coolant re-route is nothing but beneficial. It is also cheap. Get skou's spacer and look up hornetballs cheap re-route. Easy and very beneficial.

I was going to go with the M-Tuned from flyin miata, is that a waste of money?

Yeah, there's cleaner and cheaper ways to make it happen. The M-tuned has a remote thermostat, not necessary.

Does your car even run, it looks like you were having a time with tuning it.

Had it on the dyno Saturday, all issues were sorted

Attachment 234338

Nice, then I would look at reroutes other than the m-tuned. It works, but it can be done for less.

I'll have to look into that, thanks a lot

that is a beautiful powerband. very nice

Search for the terms I provided in the first reply and you will find parts lists of all that you need. Get skou's spacer, though, do not use the BEGI one.

thanks!

Already on it, I am worried I wont have the know how w/o good intructions though.

Hornetball has a write-up that will take you through each step and even the part numbers to buy.

Yes the last few 2554 dyno's I have seen make me miss it so much. I need to get my t2 setup done quickly so I can get back to that glory.

I keep seeing pricelists but no guides, mind linking it?

Hornetballs thread; https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...reroute-77744/

Spacer; https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...se-barb-82451/

Spacer + gaskets + Escalade radiator hose + front blockoff/freeze plug = reroute

Thanks a ton, ordering now

Those spacers are awesome. Can't go wrong there

And while you're at it, if you have any skin left on your knuckles from removing the coils + installing the reroute, you may as well do a COP setup. By then you'll be begging someone to sell you one. :giggle:

I hate that 3rd lower bolt on the coils. It's such overkill. I was luck enough to have the engine out when I installed me reroute and pulled that lower coil bolt while I was at it so now coil removal is a breeze with just the two top bolts.

this is all scaring me lol, may need to pay someone

Actually the reroute is pretty easy once you have all the parts handy. Don't forget the Kia neck + the longer bolts. The Escalade/Suburban hose pretty much puts the outlet in the right spot and you cut a few inches of it.

That linked spacer is sooo much better than the BEGI spacer...

All parts ordered from the reroute list. What other odds and ends should I get to make sure I can get it done in 1 go?

ditch the cat - cheap, ridiculously more spool and it'll allow you to run more ignition timing too meaning more top end power.

Either that or take your cat off - knock it out and put it back on. Cheap and easy.

whats the kia neck and longer bolts? those werent in the parts list

From the skou's cnc adapter post

You can order the Kia neck from Begi. I forget the bolt length and size but I'm sure if you dig through the thread it's mentioned.

Something I forgot to bring up. When I was in STR I was running 15x8 with 205 bfg rivals. Am I going to be all over the place with that size tire or should I be fine until I gain some more skill.

I guess it depends on how serious you are about it. The car is going to be in a much higher class.

If you only run a couple times a year I'd learn how the car drives on what you have now. Others will say go big.

In autox bigger = better.

I like competition but am a beginner. I attended every event last year and plan to do the same again this year. My concern isnt winning (I dont have the skill) it is more about having a good time and if I am losing control because the tire grip isnt on par with the power bump I wont be having fun. If a 205 bfg rival on an 15x8 with 227wtq is a decent setup for a beginner then I am happy to keep it.

I guess Leafy would be the one to comment. He has a lot of autox experience in the class you'd likely be placed into. Possibly you can read through his thread. https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...chedule-67828/

M8 x 1.25 x 50 and M8 x 1.25 x 75 flange bolts or socket head cap screws. M8 flat washers if you use socket head cap screws.