what would you do v.clutch
 

I dropped something int he clutch on my car last weekend. I need to have the car running on 6/22 for a track day I've already payed for. There is no way i'll have the turbo build done in time, so i have to run one more track event on the na 1.6...which isn't bad considering I'm a novice driver, on a new track.

I'm thinking either I buy a cheap $100 clutch and run it for a month, get MS tuned, and whatever. However I'm also considering buying a big bad ACT clutch that will hold 300lb/ft.

What would you guys do? My rods are 5 weeks out, then I have to get machine work done, then I have to find time to swap the rear end, engine, do the turbo build, then tune...so it might be a while considering I travel for work.

Thanks for the recommendation.

Put the ACT clutch in. Why do it 2X? You are also going to need to break in whatever clutch you install.

get the new clutch for the turbo. it'll get you accustomed to it and break it in before you hit it with real power.

doing it twice is bad economy.

do the puck style clutches last a while compared to the organic or kevlar materials?

I have to do the work twice regardless, but I thought it would be a good idea to save some life in the expensive clutch.

it should not be to hurt by stock torque numbers + like everyone else said it will get you used to the clutch there is a few thousand mile breackin period for most of them anyway. I like the puck but it is abit to agressive for some. No idea on longevity/.

Hellz yah, do it right the first time. Have you changed a clutch before? A Miata is about as simple as it gets for clutch work, but it's still a full afternoon, even with a lift, tranny jack, and all the tools and shit. My first time took me about 15hrs total. I could do it in less time now, but it would still be a full day in the garage. Do it once.

I've done probably 30-50 clutches in vw's.

gary from TDR claims he's putting down 260lb/ft through a spec stage 2. I want something that will last a while IF it will hold 240lb/ft at the wheels. I'm not afraid of the engagement, but I did hate clutches lasting like 6 months at a time in my vw with the kevlar materials.

i forget if this is a street car at all. if it's forget pucks.

an organic will probably not wear out any faster with more power, just more slipping. if you abuse it, it'll die. kevlar just tends to have a low coefficient of friction and glaze really easily.

I've heard of other people running that much power through a stage 2. no idea on longevity.

go with an act extreme and be done with it first time around

do i need any specialty tools for the miata clutch? I'm sitting here looking at MS, and its pissing me off.

I appreciate the input. I can drive my father's 605ci camaro with a sintered iron clutch, and I don't think the clutch engagement is that bad.

This car is not a daily driver.

No. All you need is a lift, an air compressor, 1/2" impact, and a tranny jack

But seriously the bolts at the top of the bellhousing are a PITA, especially the top pass side one because something gets in the way, a wiring harness IIRC. You'll need a long extension and a u joint. Maybe even a u joint socket too. The driveshaft comes right out (do that first) easily enough. The clutch hydraulics come out easily enough. Get the top bellhousing bolts first, because they'll be the biggest PITA by far. Then the rest come off easily enough. The tranny itself is suprisingly light.

I would rather pull the motor etc all at once than drop the tranny now that i know how easy pulling the motor is but is you can get your hands/tools to the bolts it is easy to drop the tranny as well.

swapping the clutch is easily the most labor-intensive job I've done on the miata. there's no way I'd do it twice.

try removing the fucking control arms sometime :td:

Clutch = done by lunch
Control arms = 2 weeks and not done yet