bryantaylor

iTrader: (5)

if your not going to read the posts, just stfu, kthankxbye

i had one when they first came out and i sold it atleast a year ago and got an AEM

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Does anyone have a picture of the plug thats on our O2 sensors?

Its cold outside and I dont want to dig around under the hood to unplug it.

bryantaylor

iTrader: (5)

this help any?
http://www.autozone.com/R,APP231025/...ductDetail.htm

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Sweet. I found one for mine. Hopefully it the picture is big enough to help my friend find one for me. I figured, instead of chopping into my sensor, ill have a friend of mine find me a toasted one with the same plug that I can chop off.

Any other cars use the same sensor?

http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,.../selectZip.htm
http://www.autozone.com/R,APP237298/...ductDetail.htm

bryantaylor

iTrader: (5)

my old probe (93-97) GT looks like it has the same plug too a v6 mx6 and 626 is also the same

hustler

iTrader: (6)

any links to the "add a circuit" stuff? I was going to take a spst relay for all my gauges and the lc-1.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

I wouldnt put the LC1 on a relay, id just tap it into a switched 12v and be done with it. I plugged mine into the blue connector under the hood with a spade for the time being.

As for the lighting for the gauges, I had a great idea to do without a add a circuit. The day time running light plug under our dashes has a ground and a 12v switched, so I will be using that for the gauges. I need to find out if it has a 12v that power up with the head lights so I can have my DB gauge dim when they are on.

I didnt bother with the add a circuit because A. I bought one that was to big, because the fuse box accepts only Mini add a circuits and B. After I remembered the plug it made no sense anymore.

edit: but if you still want an add a circuit, I got mine at autozone for the awesomely raping price of 8 dollars.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I'll do the add a circuit because I have the lc-1 and 4 electric gauges.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Alright I got a check engine light today. I am guessing its because the NB sensor is just hanging around in fresh air.

Other then sending my LC1's emulated signal to the factory ECU what else do I have to do?

I am concerned about the heater circuit potentially causing a check engine light if I remove the NB sensor.

btw, How do I reset the computer in my 97? I am also guessing I cant check it for codes with a flashing response since its an OBD2.

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

Autozone can check codes for you.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Yea I know they can. I just don't want to go there until I sort out the NB sensor.Im positive that its causing it as nothing else could be at the moment.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Reinstall the NB.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Ugh, what for?

I said I want to wire up my LC1 to emulate the NB. I am concerned about the ECU and the NB heater circuit.

Am I the only one on this board that wants to emulate the NB with an LC1 or is everyone here running both sensors in their downpipes?

Ben

iTrader: (33)

College grad huh.
Easiest way to make everything work correctly is to run your WB standalone. Then you don't have to worry about a heater CEL or sensor drift.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Sadly I dont have a mech E degree. :(

What do you mean standalone, you mean not have it emulate the NB signal?

Whats sensor drift?

Eventually I could run two sensors in the DP. Not a problem if emulating causes issues. But for now I wouldnt mind getting rid of the CEL. I can probably scavenge a free O2 sensor to wire the signal too so I dont have to destroy mine.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

You could make the connection inside the car by cutting the signal wire from the front NB to the ECU and splicing the LC-1's "NB" output into that line. No need to destroy an O2 sensor, though it'll still need to be there to dissipate some current on the heater line. (If you really wanted to get fancy, you could build a heater simulator out of a big power resistor and find some way to heat-sink it very well. Water-cooled perhaps.)

FWIW, I found it easier to just put a second bung into my DP and run both sensors. The NB is up in the usual location just aft of the turbine outlet, and the WB is further down about a foot upstream of the cat.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Nah, running a line to the MS while keeping the O2 in the bay is counter productive. Might as well just give it a signal right there and then.

For now I will try to scavenge an o2 sensor to cut up. Afterwards I will just put in an extra bung into the exhaust to keep things simpler.

I am just curious. If the sensor barely gets warm to the touch, why would I need a watercooled resistor to simulate it? It couldnt be eating up that much juice. More info would help because I would consider doing this.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Ok, the W/C thing was a bit of a joke. Not a very good one. Although we do in fact have water-cooled 50 ohm resistors for load-testing transmitters. When you're dissipating > 20KW of power in a single device, cooling becomes important.

Honestly, I never bothered measuring the heater current. You're probably right- a decent metal-case resistor properly heat-sunk to chassis should suffice. If anybody knows what the average heater current is, we can spec a resistor value.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

That would be fantastic.