This guy has been trying to sell that motor since before Christmas. He acts pretty squirrelly when you ask him questions.

I finally gave up on the idea. He started out at $350 back then. Still not sold at $100 I'd be really asking questions.

To answer your SNC issue yes if it has 4 slots on the front pulley it is a short nose.

Went and picked it up. Guy was definitely, ahh, well...squirrelly is a good word. Big stories about owning 3 Miata's and swapping motors and a planned "Figh Poin Oh" build, but nothing to show for it. Also completely incapable of giving me accurate directions to his girlfriend's house (no joke, that's where he was storing the motor) -- and that was after he misspelled the street name in the email and sent me the wrong way. Also, his email address is "ibpimpin@something.com". I was waiting for him to say something about drifting or naws, but that was avoided.

Motor isn't too bad, head is off and it looks like it's been bathed in oil daily...lots of grime. Bignose crank. Have to take a closer look now that I've got it home to know if it's in good enough shape for a swap. If it isn't, I'll just take it apart so I can practice/learn the procedure without risking my own motor, then sell or save the pieces that are still in good shape. For $100, I feel pretty good about it.

What's the best stuff for taking the dirty oil and grime off? Carb cleaner?

Thanks again for that dude! :bigtu:

100% truth.

For $100, shortnose or longnose, its a steal.

I did the shortnose crank fix before I boosted and haven't had any issues.

Although you said the one you picked up was a longnose, I just wanted to add my :2cents:

send it to Blue Sun Corporation, we'll do a rebuild

Holy plug.

Would you mind clarifying this for. I spoke with someone with Mazda Motorsports Development and the parts numbers from the 323 haven't changed from about 89 all the way up to the NB. He said it's possible that the construction was different but that the GTX and Miata part number are the same.

I'm not calling BS, I'm just wondering what the difference is and if the snc rods are less likely to go south at 250whp since I'm running a snc engine.

I'm guessing the "100% Truth" comment was referring to identifying the shortnose via the pulley, or possibly the ease of fixing it when the motor is out of the car.

I'd really like to know if this thing about the GTX rods is true...have lines on two sets.

Yeah I was agreeing that the shortnose crank "issue" is no big deal.

I too wonder about the rods, that's why I pm'd the guy that stated that they are the B6T rods. I'll point him to this thread so he can clarify on this for everyone to read.

He just pm'd me back. This is what he wrote.

Is there any, any truth at all to a rumor that the higher comp. 1.8L engines found in the 2001 and up NBB's have slightly better rods ? I am a newb to the scene so I may be way out there but I thought I should ask.

Interesting. Perhaps we need another thread for the difference of internals from motors varying from year to year.

I also had read somewhere that the original 1.6 was a De-turboed 323 engine. There is still some left over capped off water passages that are there from it's front wheel drive configuration.

Here's a completely unsubstantiated rumor I heard about the SNC motor: The head is allegedly slightly better in the SNC motors. That's the extent of the rumor I heard, no elaboration other than it's better. I've been trying to verify it for the past year, out of personal curiosity, with little luck(which is probably a pretty good indication that is not true.) I don't have a long nose head to compare it to so it's mainly internet wrangling.

How the fuck do these rumors come around? Heh, id like some facts plz.