sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Torsen is short for torque sensing. It has a set of gears that wind up and lock when needed. It is durable and works well.

All of the 1.6 cars (90-93) had smaller differentials that break at stock power and must be upgraded with new CV shafts, etc. Avoid them and get a '94-up.

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

I cover the basics of the model years here:

https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...k-links-56507/

blkmkiii

iTrader: (2)

front pads 1x a year $100
tires 1x year $520 for nt01s.
Everything else has been my own breaking/fault.
Thats doing hpde/tt probably 8-10 events a year.

Hpprose

Thanks for taking the time to write that. There is a lot of good info in there for someone like me trying to figure out what the best options are.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Indeed. Also, I don't see a reason to go with a '94-'97 model unless that's just what you want, or if you need to worry about emissions and plan to do engine mods.

A clean NB isn't much, if any, more than a clean NA and is largely a better platform. When you consider that the newest NA is 18 years old, NB's are a really solid option.

Hpprose

To be completely honest, I'm refreshed by how "affordable" everything is.

I'm used to much higher prices on everything. When Cyotani said he found a replacement engine for $200 on Craigslist I laughed out loud. I cannot even buy a replacement injector for my truck for that.

The more I read about this and price stuff out, the more attractive it is. I have a POS commuter car that is paid off. I can probably get enough out of that to buy a decent Miata.

Big issue that I have is myself. I don't keep anything stock very long, but the whole point of this would be to have fun and not spend every weekend working on it. I keep looking at things and thinking, "Man I could swap this out or that out and make this thing a screamer" but that isn't the point.

So, I need to figure out what level of commitment I'm going to make. I have 5 other vehicles right now. So, I don't need a street legal vehicle. I just need to decide if I want to drive to the track or just trailer it and how much of a track car do I want?

Hpprose

I really like this one. It would probably be a little better if it had normal paint but everything else sounds ok.

https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/cto/5033020023.html

Unfortunately, I need to wait a month or so before I pull the trigger.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Wow. Amazing how horrible paint can drop the value of a car.

Hpprose

If you had a 5k budget for a car, what year/options would you look for?

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

My needs are likely different than yours. If you don't deal with emissions then I'd go with a nice NB. If you have to deal with emissions and you will do engine mods, gets a '94-95.

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

I'd put a nice down payment on a clean low mile NB2 with a 6spd, spend the rest on a MSPnP/tires/rims/suspension in that order. Drive it stock until a grand master trubo plan has been plotted. You learn to tune stock along the way. When GMTP comes around you're set like a boss

Hpprose

MSPnP is that high on your list.

I would have though the order would be tires/suspension/MSPnP/rims

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

In my case, knowledge gained on a stock ecu/stand alone system is more valuable than how much my tires grip.

You could be in my shoes, Begi s3 kit with Stock ecu + Xede. Broken car, no fuel control & unable to tune on upgraded parts. I would of much rather paid for the scenario above than to not have my car to drive it. (Keep It Simple Stupid)

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

it's that high on his list because he has an MSM and doesn't realize that on a regular NB2 you're better off with the tires/wheels/suspension first.

Again, his needs are different than yours.

Do you have to deal with emissions?

Also:

This. You need to make this decision before any more recommendations are made. Edit: or you can be like me and move forward in denial spending lots of money and hoping for the best.

Also: NBs are only heavier because they have more stuff. Strip and NB and an NA and the weight difference is negligible.

Hpprose

I will take that into consideration. Good point.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Wat? No. Different kinds of knowledge. Knowing how to make a fuel map will not make your car more capable on a track, nor will it give you a better platform to learn to drive. A solid suspension setup with decent, progressive tires will go a lot further towards building a fun track car than an ECU.

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

I agree with you.

But I was replying to his "what would you do with 5k car budget".

In terms of track reliability you're spot on.

As for mspnp > all, OP... the main attraction is that you can swap your stock ecu back in and tune the ms on weekends or something. In your case you may as well flip my order as Ed stated.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

^Word.

I'd say if you really just have $5k to spend, find the cheapest reasonably clean and well-maintained car with a factory Torsen and get a roll bar and some wheels and tires and brake pads and other maintenance items (brake fluid, radiator, etc) and you'll be on track for cheapsies.

Man this stuff adds up.

Hpprose

the 5k is for the base car.

If I'm looking at a PSPnP controller for the engine, how difficult is it to put a late model engine into an older vehicle?

Are there any major aero differences between generation (outside of driving at night with the lights on)?

EricJ

I bought a stock '99 with 125k, bad paint, a couple of dents, rusted exhaust, 185/75/14 tires and a check engine light on for $2,500.
I knew I was going to replace the exhaust and tires anyway, so no big deal. The check engine light was the EGR, cleaning the intake manifold did the trick.
Replaced the shot Showa's with Xidas, add a big red front bar, a Hard Dog Hard Core, seats, harness and LSD. I'm on track. Probably 2k over your 5k budget.
I found this helpful when shopping to try to find a car with the features I wanted.
Miata Mazda MX-5 Mx5 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1999 2000 2001 2003 2004 Special Edition Limited Edition M Edition

Also, if you want to compete, check the rules of the group you're planning on running with, before you spend money.
One wrong part can push you into an unfavorable autox class, or push you up a TT/PT NASA class with no real increase in speed.