Newbsauce

iTrader: (2)

So I installed my t28 setup and the car started fine. There was an open leak between the manifold and exhaust ports, but I got it to the muffler shop to have some work done.. they did the following:
Installed a pipe between the DP and cat to extend the DP
WElded an O2 Bung
Shortened the wastegate arm and rewelded it ( I drove it there with open WG, it has no tap so if it was closed it would boost to infinity)

So as I said the car started and I drove it over there. When I went to pick up the car they told me that the car was having problems starting and that it was shooting oil on the manifold from the exhaust ports. I confirmed the car would not start, and I saw that they had the WG on (which with no nipple on means it would never stop boosting, or open the WG). I don't understand.. could anyone give me possible explanations of why the car would not start? They were idiots and were mentioning that it sounds like it doesn't have enough backpressure. I mean I drove it there on open DP so that cannot be an issue. Thanks in advance.

turbopezz

did they hook up a vac line to the wastegate,or just welded the wastegate arm and boosted you car to infinity.

i have the same setup and it started with$ just a downpipe.
did you put the mega squirt in?

Ben

iTrader: (33)

oh boy. Find the source of the oil. Hopefully it's going through the turbo and into the exhaust, and not through the motor.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Well either this is blowing my mind or they blew your motor.
Oil shooting out of the exhaust ports.... Where the hell would that come from besides valve guides or blown rings?
I've never experienced that sort of thing.

turbopezz

all the valve guides where bad in a short nose motor i had and th oil would spew out the back of the exhaust.
hopefully its a bad oil line.

Newbsauce

iTrader: (2)

Well here's what I got.. I went over to the shop first thing this AM when it was light out.

The oil stick was raised like 1cm out of its hole, which I am hoping will explain the oil squirt. The starting issue I cannot seem to figure out though. I am going through and checking all the vacuum lines, I took the battery which was pretty much dead to the shop to get charged. It seemed like my battery, which was dead after like 3 months (brand new 3 mo ago) died really quick. Is there a chance the alternator is shot and therefore the voltage from a jump just isn't enough to crank it? I'm so lost what to troubleshoot next.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

I think you're headed in the right direction approaching this as two different issues. I had a brand new battery get a bad cell in about the same amount of time. It would charge up to a full voltage on the meter but would crank the car. And then bleed down after cranking. Took it back to pep boys, they put it on their machine and sure nuff came back as bad. Gave me a new one and all the problems were solved. Definitely a lesson in checking the simple stuff first. New doesn't always mean good. If you have the means, I'd pull and take it back to where it came for testing and hopefully a warranty replacement.

Was there any oil on your hood from it squirting up from the dip stick tube?

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

You said your dipstick tube was raised.
Isn't that usually a characteristic of a car that is getting positive crankcase pressure which will prematurely wear out rings and other things as well?

Hope it turns out to be the battery.

Newbsauce

iTrader: (2)

well here's the story: The people at the shop seem to think that I have a bad ring. I pulled the plugs and chamber 3 has oil all over the plug on the spark side. Sounds like rings to me. New engine?

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

yes- if the dipstick is blowing out, there's some excessive crankcase pressure which is usually blow by at the rings. Do a quick compresssion test to see if there's anything major.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

So you dropped off a turboed car with a good motor and now they are trying to give you a turbo car with a blown motor something smells fishy to me on that one.

boostinsteve

I agree with Richard. Best to try and look into this. It sounds like they did what they were supposed to do and then drive it and do stuff that they were not supposed to do.

Newbsauce

iTrader: (2)

There's really not much I can do to prove it at this point however. I can really only move on to fixing the damage thats been done. What is the best solution for this type of scenario? Do I try to have the engine torn down by a shop and built up with sourced parts? (I dont have the facilities to do this) Do I buy a used engine? I would imagine that if the rings are screwed then the piston walls are probably scratched correct?

As for what happened at the shop.. I came back and the waste gate was hooked up without the tap into vacuum. I bet they revved the car hard, it spiked to like 22psi. game over. Unfortunately, I paid in cash so I doubt any argument I make will stand.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

I would ask brian for help the walls might not be wangoed my piston was fragged but the walls where frigin smooth. overbore was just for my peice of mind and abit more umph. You signed a work order didnt you? They cant make boost without it being on the road so i dont think revving it would make boost but still seems like they fubared something for sure. Swaping the motor is simple wiescos often take a week or two to come in once ordered and machine work a few days past that so use your judgement using stock rods overbore of 40 new HG WP, ARP headbolts, ballanced and polished rotation assembly. ran me about 2200 or so. With my engine this should be repeatable in Virginia as well. GL man. But before you do this check the compression and leak down if the compression comes out normal.