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Woot! ordered mine!
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sweet, payment sent
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Paid thanks for including the box. and for taking on this project.
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How are you going to handle shipping to Canada?
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I'm just glad it finally came through MyMiataflys. It seemed like we were never going to make it to the end.
Jayc, Go ahead and purchase what you need and when it comes to shipping it I'll send you an invoice for the difference. This is a small package it should fit in a large envelope so I don't think it would be very much. Travis |
TravisR,
Ordered and paid. Let me know what the extra postage is to Australia and I'll sort it out ASAP. Cheers, T |
Ok guys, Chris says the first order should be here around the 8-9th so thats when I'll start shipping these.
Travis |
Update? :x:
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Chris got sick, so as soon as he gets to feeling better we'll have our boards.
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Thanks TravisR. Bummer!
Best wishes to Chris though. Get well soon Dude! |
Travis should get the completed units some time this week.
Sorry for the delay, but the cold I caught completely drained all my energy. |
No problem. Thanks for the work.
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any updates?
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What happened with this? I was off the board for a year and I did my COP install (Obiwan Link) without hearing about the stories of people blowing up their coils.
Is this deal over? Also, does the 96-97 Link count the same as the 90-95 Link for the purposes of this mod? Ie, should I order the 1.6L box? |
Ok, order placed and paid for.
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Ok boxes are out, I'll be posting instructions online in the next couple of days.
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Did I order too late?
Also, did I order the right box? I have a 96-97 link and I ordered the "1.6L or Link" box. |
No, we only built 10 in the first batch and only 3 of them were 1.6L. I will ask chris about the 1.8L links, on which box you need.
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What will it take to make more? Is there any chance of this happening?
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Jim,
Yea, it'll be probably sometime next week before we have more in, no extra work involved. |
You had me worried over nothing. I can wait a week.
One interesting thing: I noticed that the aluminum bar that I use to hold the COPs down gets hot (probably from the valve cover, I'm using risers made from copper tubing), but I was thinking that with a thermally conductive barrier material you could probably use an aluminum bar as a heat sink to provide further protection against heat, at least for those of us running high rpm and wasted spark (though the coils haven't died yet from 7000+ rpm usage and 5ms dwell, so I'm guessing this is probably not that drastic an overclock). You'd have to make the risers out of a thermal insulating material to isolate the bar from the valve cover, but it might help (though how much it would help under the hot hood, I don't know. Oh yeah, pic from other thread: http://i38.tinypic.com/qn7az6.jpg |
I'll mention that with Sav and see what he thinks about thermally insulated systems. I'm not sure that it would make that much difference, but it would have to help.
I also sent out invoices for international shipping to those of you who live outside the United States. Its 7 dollars flat rate for international those should be in your mailboxes. |
I agree it wouldn't make much difference if the dwell is low, even in a wasted spark config.
The idea would be to have the retaining bar be thermally connected to the COPs so they could draw heat off but thermally isolated from the valve cover to ensure that it stays as cool as possible to maximize COP cooling. One million hours in mspaint http://i33.tinypic.com/8xpkdw.jpg |
Also, I have to admit that those shiny nice plates that guy was making look a lot cleaner as install options go. I wish he was still making them.
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Originally Posted by JimAtFSU
(Post 324804)
I agree it wouldn't make much difference if the dwell is low, even in a wasted spark config.
The idea would be to have the retaining bar be thermally connected to the COPs so they could draw heat off but thermally isolated from the valve cover to ensure that it stays as cool as possible to maximize COP cooling. One million hours in mspaint http://i33.tinypic.com/8xpkdw.jpg |
Any update on the second week of production? I'm planning to drive the car this weekend and get it dialed in. Any chance I will have the dwell reducer by then?
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We're working on it no update yet, I'll get those instructions out tomorrow too. I got poked about not getting those done yesterday ;)
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i'm guessing we're not getting these instructions tonight
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Just give me a sec, almost done.
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i'm excited now
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Looks nice, can't wait to get mine.
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For you guys who have been waiting. The boards are supposed to be shipped to me today. Sorry for the delay.
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Received mine thanks TravisR. :)
Installed and functioning. I'll post some pics of the install soon. |
Originally Posted by Fra66L
(Post 336623)
Received mine thanks TravisR. :)
Installed and functioning. I'll post some pics of the install soon. As for the rest of you I got a fresh full load of 1.6L boards, so they will be leaving my hands tomorrow. |
You have $$.
I just installed my COPs over the weekend and Savington was nice enough to inform me of this necessary modification. The car is running great, and the COPs will now be able to last longer. |
Can I still get in on this group buy or get my name down for another one? I really don't need them until the end of January, but would love to purchase this. For a '94 1.8L, going for 300rwhp @ 20psi on a 1.2L Ubercharger and want to run a large gap with race gas. :)
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At this point its more the going price, then a group buy. We're not making alot, but I have plenty of stock to sell, just order on the website, and I'll get you taken care of.
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Originally Posted by TravisR
(Post 339738)
At this point its more the going price, then a group buy. We're not making alot, but I have plenty of stock to sell, just order on the website, and I'll get you taken care of.
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Hmm mine hasn't arrived yet. I'm planning to drive to NY from FL soon and I don't want to do it without a dwell board installed.
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Everything has been priority mailed as of yesterday so it should be there by the weekend. Unfortunately work, school, and this really got the best of me for about a week. My appologies.
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Received yesterday - thanks!
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Great, letme know how the install goes!
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Sweet, it arrived, probably a few days ago. I was expecting it to arrive UPS but it was in my mailbox in an envelope. Much smaller than I expected.
Installing it today. |
Sorry for the anti-climatic end ;) They are pretty tiny, I remember thinking that myself when I deboxed the boards.
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I know this thread is old, but are dwell reducers still being sold?
thanks |
I thought some guy made some on m.net?
If not I may work on a new design. |
Originally Posted by JasonC SBB
(Post 975680)
I thought some guy made some on m.net?
If not I may work on a new design. |
If nobody's doing it I will re-start my project.
I'm in SJ and your car could be the test bed. What year ECU do you have? |
I have the stock 94 ecu
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Please let me know if you will be making any more dwell reducers, I would like to use Trackspeed engineerings cop kit but need the dwell reducer.
Thank you very much, George |
I have a stock 2000, thanks
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4 Attachment(s)
Jason, I had a place build a batch of them but they didn't work as expected. One of the guys doing the testing reported back with this:
An Electronic Engineer friend (who now wants me to "look" at his rear suspension) has helped me find the problem an a fix. The board works fine when only one channel is opperating but not when both channels are opperated simultaneously. The problem is the reference voltage to the opp. amps is not stable and gets worse when both channels opperate, to the point where the "tipping" voltage is not reached. The quick fix is to solder a 47uf capacitor across R6. This stabilises the reference voltage and allows both channels to work simultaneously. However, as the frequency (engine speed) increases, the "averaged" reference voltage will increase and the delay time (dwell reduction) increases. On my board, the delay time varried from 1 to 1.2 ms over the expected engine speed range (it was 1.6ms when only one channel was opperated). A better fix would be to replace R5 and R6 with 1k ohm resistors and add the capacitor across R6. This will reduce the influence of the opp. amps input impedance and reduce the change in dwell time with frequency. A possible even better fix would be to replace R6 with a Zina diode as well as the above, but you may need to change the R/C circuits to return to the desired delay time, depending on the voltage drop of the diode. Bottom line, you will need to change the boards to make them work. Testing rig: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1361267196 Testing 'A' part of board: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1361267196 If you get a chance I'd love to hear your feedback! I ordered from an earlier BOM but had a later revision of your PCB layout file, hence the jumpers. Does the later revision incorporate the above fixes? Cheers |
Guy on M.net took our money and sold us dwell reducers that didn't work and he didn't stand by his work! Mikerx or something like that? All I know is he fucked me!
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Amellrots is your PCB the same as the above? If so could you mail me yours?
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Yes, can you fix it maybe? Please PM me your address and phone number and I will get it shipped out to you!
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Want me to send you one of mine too Jason? Mine is a completely different build to the miata.net GB.
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Where did you get it? Whose PCB layout is it?
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what's the latest on this? been wanting to put in Toyota COPs for a few years but never seemed to get in on group buys or find someone selling them...
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I think most people just go for a standalone ECU where the board isn't needed.
Stock ECU is fine with stock coils. If for some reason you really want one of the boards I think I still have one of the Timk ones rattling around a drawer in my toolbox. Never used it, and you'll still need to do the changes Tim mentions in his post above. In saying that, you're still probably better off changing ECU, or staying fully stock. I've never actually heard of anyone getting any of the dwell reducer boards to work. (which would probably explain why nobody sells them anymore) |
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