miataman04

iTrader: (1)

Heres my build thread:

I am running a built motor with a GT3076R @ 18psi with a Hydra 2.6. I haven't dynoed since I fixed some issues. My question is, does this tune look bad. I sent it to FM and they said nothing major stood out but a retune would be nice. I'm not aware of any miata tuners in Arkansas, I'm learning how to tune but only so I can understand it. I have no plans on tuning it myself for fear I would mess it up.

The car runs good and idles well. I really can't say I notice any issues as far as drive ability.

Canyonfive

You cant tell by the maps unless something is really wrong. Go log some 4th gear pulls. RPM, Fuel, Ignition, AFR, manifold pressure. Then you can export to CSV and look at in virtual dyno.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

FM said a retune would be nice. What's the question?

That target AFR map looks pretty sketchtastic to me, but i'm not a pro.

miataman04

iTrader: (1)

For me it's going to cost a penny to get it to a good tuner. I'm willing to pay it, but I'd like to wait on some other supporting mods first. So will the current tune ruin my motor, is it safe to continue driving on?

psreynol

perhaps comparing your maps, to the maps people have posted will help you decide to take it to a pro, or try to lean "hands on". it can be done, many have tried and failed. just based on the numbers, it looks pretty simple

Titus Newsome

Contact Ken Hill with Oracle Tuning. He can do etuning. You send him datalogs(email), he adjusts and sends back a updated map. I used him when i first got my MSM with a hydra. He was very helpful very patient and very well priced.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

I wouldn't drive on it, but i'm not a pro. You got an answer from a pro prior to making this thread, though.

mgtmse01

Bottom line is...if you are worried and have doubts it is better to be safe than sorry and wait... but as they said, nothing stands out.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

42 Autosport near-ish to you might tune the car. They've tuned at least one Hydra Miata in the past, though i'm fairly certain they won't be super enthused about doing another one.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Looking at maps is useless, even if they are pretty (yours aren't).

Having a car that runs good, feels good, logs show everything spot on to maps, AAAND having pretty/neat maps is where it's at.

miataman04

iTrader: (1)

Done, waiting to hear back. Thanks for the info.

I'm too scared to do that yet

11 hours lol

I'm putting some feelers out to a few tuners. My friend has a dyno so I could do remote tuning. The funny thing is, there are two dyno shops in my town but they only tune muscle cars.

kmo25

iTrader: (1)

I run Hydra 2.6 as well. My advice would be if you are worried about it, turn down the boost and load in a conservative spark map. Then I would just drive around with the full screen gauge readouts. dip into boost with closed loop disabled and see how your AFRs look. I'm sure you know where you should roughly be AFR wise based on boost. If that looks good do a pull and datalog. Then verify AFRs look good throughout the pull.

If they do, increase the boost a few psi and repeat. A conservative spark map should give you a bit of a safety net as you try to verify your AFR readings.

Once everything looks pretty good, you can re-enable closed loop. Just make sure your target table jives, or is close, to where your actuals are.

If this all looks good you can consider adding back in some some of the spark timing you were running previously. Then just datalog a few more times to make sure everything is safe.

This may not be the most efficient way but its the way I did it with my car. I just took it to the dyno to tune spark earlier this week. I spent maybe 5 minutes fine tuning the fuel map at target boost and the rest of the time messing with spark. just work your way up slowly if you want to be safe. You'll learn a lot along the way too. And you wont feel dependent on someone else to make your car "safe"