https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...71f3f1ca6f.png


Seriously, I'm not asking for alternative suggestions, I have researched pretty much every mainstream AWD vehicle sold in North America over the past 10 years. I have a spreadsheet, ranking them by physical size.


Just trying to decide whether the Juke, specifically, is a good idea.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...22f1639fab.png

Joe, all you need is your Miata, plus a set of these:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d901e082f6.jpg


This was my recipe for Alaskan winters. I could easily maintain 75-80 mph on a frozen freeway and never once had an issue in deep snow anywhere.

The Michelin Xi3 tires I have on the car actually do just fine, so long as they're in contact with something.

So a day after the storm, once larger vehicles have driven over the snow and packed it down, I can navigate it without too much trouble. The problem is that when we get dumped on with 10+ inches overnight, the belly of the car tends to ride up onto the top of the snow drifts, and that's when it gets stuck.



I need to buy another car anyway, as this one is running out of metal. Just trying to decide on the specific model. Unless someone chimes in with "No, the Juke is a terrible idea for this specific, logical reason," then I'm probably gonna pull the trigger. Found a '16 with 58k miles on it for $21k that's calling my name.




https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...50edaf35f1.png

Joe, consider the Juke-R then.
Or Juke-R 2.0

I worked with a couple guys who had Jukes - one even replaced his first with another, so it probably didn’t suck.
The only thing I’d be concerned about is if it has a CVT and a lot of miles. Nissan CVT’s(Jatco) are suspect. My friend’s Altima ate one a few years ago, and the dealer had replacement trannies on hand - kind of indicates that it wasn’t a rare instance.

It is a CVT, with 58k miles.

I drive about 2,000 miles per year, and hardly ever above 30 MPH, so while I'm not 100% unconcerned by this specific feature, I'm less concerned than I would be if I were pounding it on the freeway every day.



Ha!

I think the stock engine will suffice.

Get the Juke and change the CVT Fluid.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...034e687590.jpg
Juke Joint in Belle Glade, FL

Kinda what I'm leaning towards.

Man, that NS-3 fluid is pricey...

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ed5c55718b.png

My dad had the Nismo Juke i think that model came with turbo. 2013 2014 something model. He had a lot of fun with it. Unfortunately my dad passed away about 2 months after buying so i couldnt tell you how reliable it would be but in the time he had it he enjoyed it. The CVT on a peaky motor is nothing to smirk at. It keeps the engine in the happy zone and pulls like a freight train the entire time.

So I've downloaded the factory service manual for the '16 Juke, and am casually reading through it.

Jesus tittyfucking Christ, this thing has a lot of wiring in it.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c4699335a7.png

Those are the scrap cable recycling bins at my workplace. We fill a set of three like this every 1-2 months.


I occasionally feel a bit of ill-advised nostalgia for my first car, which was a 1971 Beetle. The wiring diagram for the whole car fit onto a single page.


https://external-content.duckduckgo....jpg&f=1&nofb=1

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0d8371576.jpeg

And no one died.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CVv8n..._web_copy_link

The Jatco CVT is the worst CVT made IMO. When you see a Juke or Rouge for sale it commonly has "shifting" problems...
I have found internal parts are not available and no tranny shop will touch a Jatco.
If you get one the first trans service should be remove pan, clean crap out of bottom of pan and the magnets.
R&R the screen filter and clean it, usually you do not have to replace the screen.
The killer that no one changes is the post cooler filter (looks like a tiny oil filter element) and its o-ring.
Early ones are under a plate that is on the front of the transmission that the cooler lines connect to.
Late ones are under a round housing that is right next to the front motor mount.
Early ones remove battery tray and supporting brackets.
Late ones remove front motor mount and the bracket on the engine.
On a late one when the dealer tells you the o-ring is not available just order the whole cap- it's cheap.

Early one


After you've done the first pan off service drive it 20 miles and do a drain and refill (easy) and you're done for 30 K.
Every 30K do a drain and refill and every 90K pan off, change tiny cooler filter.
Maybe you can make it live longer this way.

Toyota has the only CVT that I recommend and it has a normal auto trans first gear then it switches to the CVT set.

The Jatco CVT has a 100K service life IMO and a new one is over 4K across the parts counter.
I am Nissan enthusiast (early Z cars) and I don't recommend anything except the Titan and its variants past 2005. The Titan went south after 2015.
Renault screwed Nissan over badly...

If you think $20 a quart is bad wait till you do a tranny service on a late model Dodge with the ZF trans...
$32 a quart wholesale and a correct service take 10-11 quarts...
A tranny service can exceed $500...

I'd rather add a 2nd cooler than replace it entirely.

Anyways.

https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...9Q&oe=62031DB1

not like the movies

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3db1cb9f84.png

(not political)

Bush visits Albania :D

^ Totally confused about George Bush's wristwatch, and why it matters.

click to play

Pretty sure someone in the crowd yoinked it in the first few seconds of handshaking.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a11acd6fce.jpg

Found this in the miata 3d print group :D

https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net..._w&oe=62045677