Originally Posted by whaaamx5
(Post 184291)
how do you introduce the water into the comustion chamber?
im curious You get a cup of water, doesn't matter what kind. Then pull a vacuum line at your intake manifold and hold the car at like 2k rpm with one hand, while you suck up tiny amounts of water with the vacuum line. You just let it *sip* *sip* *sip* water into the intake. The water breaks up carbon. |
Well, I've carb spray to clean them out before on hondas. Warm the car up really good, hold the TB wide open with motor on rev limiter, and empty a can of carb spray through it. Worked well. Of course, 100 shot direct port keeps my miata clean.
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Originally Posted by Saml01
(Post 184067)
Hmmmmm. I wonder whats in sea foam that could even remotely damage a wideband, I mean sure they say remove it but it could be just a pre caution for nothing.
Originally Posted by Saml01
(Post 184067)
Interesting enough, my friend ran it in his 96 with 70k miles and didnt do anything for him either.
Of course it won't help a car that doesn't have wrong with it whatever it fixes. I know you know that, but it illustrates the point. :-)
Originally Posted by Bryceness
(Post 184231)
Sea foam helped my idle droop.
Originally Posted by Arkmage
(Post 184272)
half a can in the oil and the other half through the intake once every 30K miles. the last few times I've had my head off the block the valves were clean as hell.
I've used Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (MCCC) a few times, with the head off, and been *amazed* at how well it works. Leaves things looking like new. It's almost impossible to describe it. I've been tempted to spray it in sea-foam style but never have. |
It seems you haven't read the can very carefully. You can put it in pretty much any part of your car and it will solve problems you didn't know existed.
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It's still not wise to put it in your oil and drive around. For the same reason you don't put ATF in every oil change and drive with it forever. It's not a lubricant, it's just for cleaning. Run it a short amount of time and get it the hell out.
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you dont put it in your oil and drive around. you put it in your oil, just like any engine flush, and let it idle for 5 - 20min and then change the oil.
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i'm going to do it on my lesabre beater tomorrow now that I saw this thread.... it could use some help....
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don't pour, sip
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I bet one person who read this thread is going to come back posting "SEAFOAM
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I did it on my -99 when it had 109K miles on it (*sip-sip* into the intake by vacume hose, not in the crank case). It smoked a lot (!!) for a long time... It did a noticable difference in power though, especially over 5K rpm. (at least it felt like it by the scheat of my toyight paannts)
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Originally Posted by teknikscian
(Post 184382)
you dont put it in your oil and drive around. you put it in your oil, just like any engine flush, and let it idle for 5 - 20min and then change the oil.
Whats in Sea Foam anyway? I also never heard of running water into the intake, to clean out carbon. |
Originally Posted by Saml01
(Post 184405)
I also never heard of running water into the intake, to clean out carbon.
That's almost as old as the internal combustion engine. it doesn't take much to get the job done. What we did was put a little water in a refillable spray can and slightly tap the spray while trying to keep the engine at about 2k RPM. This was on a carbureted car but I don't see how it would be any different lightly spraying it in to your intake with filter removed. Now all i need is a very tiny dood to keep in my engine bay and i'll have water injection !!! http://blindmind.smugmug.com/photos/231209524-S.gif |
When spraying stuff into the intake, if you get any liquid on the hot-wire flow meter that's stock on the later miatas, it will:
1) Cause the car to suddenly see a massive amount of air incoming (enough to chill the heater down at the rate boiling liquid takes heat), making it stall or want to stall 2) Leave deposits on said meter, partially shorting it, and making you stall and get bad mileage for a week till you try to clean it with a q-tip, break it off, and have to order another one to the tune of $600, and even after you manage to get a salvage one from Flyin' Miata, it'll still be a waste of $100 because you'll get a MS a month later. I mean, I imagine it could happen that way. :-) The point is, try to miss the sensor - I doubt water is as bad as oil. |
Originally Posted by Saml01
(Post 184405)
They really should write that on the can if this is the case.
Whats in Sea Foam anyway? I also never heard of running water into the intake, to clean out carbon. http://www.wd-wpp.com/msds2/0000103d.pdf Pale oil 40-60% Naptha 25-35% IPA (isopropyl alcohol) 10-20% |
aren't you introducing water into the intake after the afm or maf anyway?
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Originally Posted by johndoe
(Post 184517)
aren't you introducing water into the intake after the afm or maf anyway?
Originally Posted by cjernigan
(Post 184514)
Who wants the MSDS????
http://www.wd-wpp.com/msds2/0000103d.pdf Pale oil 40-60% Naptha 25-35% IPA (isopropyl alcohol) 10-20% Nothing there that can affect oil to my knowledge, I have no idea if these ingredients even warrant an oil change. Other then the oil the rest of the stuff probably burns away. |
Originally Posted by johndoe
(Post 184517)
aren't you introducing water into the intake after the afm or maf anyway?
Originally Posted by Saml01
(Post 184520)
If you have a MAP sensor running your engine you can, but if you try taking off a vac line with either of the two above then you got a problem.
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Originally Posted by Saml01
(Post 184520)
If you have a MAP sensor running your engine you can, but if you try taking off a vac line with either of the two above then you got a problem.
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Originally Posted by AbeFM
(Post 184507)
The point is, try to miss the sensor - I doubt water is as bad as oil.
non-issue even in later cars. i'm nearing 100K mi. at the next oil change it'll be a flush/fill: a. seafoam b. atf + heavy oil idling flush c. changing to 10w40 hopefully the 10w40 won't decrease my mileage... the HLA noise is really kickin' in when the car gets hot now... |
Originally Posted by Saml01
(Post 184520)
If you have a MAP sensor running your engine you can, but if you try taking off a vac line with either of the two above then you got a problem.
Lol. Nothing there that can affect oil to my knowledge, I have no idea if these ingredients even warrant an oil change. Other then the oil the rest of the stuff probably burns away. per wiki... Naphtha is used primarily as feedstock for producing a high octane gasoline component via the catalytic reforming process. Naphtha is also used in the petrochemical industry for producing olefins in steam crackers and in the chemical industry for solvent (cleaning) applications.....why seafoam is good for the crankcase.. Isopropanol is a major ingredient in "dry-gas" fuel additive. In significant quantities, water is a problem in fuel tanks as it separates from the gasoline and can freeze in the supply lines at cold temperatures. The isopropanol does not remove the water from the gasoline. Rather, the isopropanol solubilizes the water in the gasoline. Once soluble, the water does not pose the same risk as insoluble water as it will no longer accumulate in the supply lines and freeze....why its good to use in your gas tank... |
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