Brakes
 

Are there any better breaks i can get off other cars that are compatible with Miatas? my break sucks!!!!

what year do you have?

You can upgrade 90-93 to 94-97 using the same calipers, just 94-97 mounting brackets and rotors.

and...

You can upgrade 90-97 to 01-05 Sport brakes. This upgrade is more extensive, since you will need calipers, mounting brackets, brake booster and master cylinder.

IMHO, 1.6 (90-93) brakes are fine for 95% of us. Just add a good compound brake pad and fresh fluid and you will be fine.

When you are over 200hp and pushing your car beyond the limits on the track, start looking at brakes. If you have never experienced brake fade, you are no where near needing bigger brakes.

If you want a better bite, pedal feel, look for a set of HP+, Ultimates, etc.

laugh. people say that until you do it for yourself.

Huh?

I like my ultimates, they're good for DD.

that statement is laughable.

95% of the people here need larger brakes. I believed in the whole better brake pads are everything, but then i made 170rwhp and had to slow down.

1.8L 10" rotors with good pads are stopping me dead in my tracks with no fade. there's nothing that can make up for larger friction surface, cause i mean it's friction that stops the car. the quicker and less effort it takes to stop the car, the less chance of fade.

Unless you are running r-compound tires on your daily driver, how can you use the extra friction?

Bigger brakes, no ABS, street tires = earlier lock up.

Regardless of HP, its physics. Weight and speed. So a 2200# with 130hp car going 130mph is going to need the same amount of brakes as a 2200# 170hp car.

I can brake from 130mph at VIR at the #3 marker all day long with 1.6 brakes with Hawk HP+s and r-comps and never have an issue. Hopefully you are not doing similar things on the street.

I know if I try to brake at the #3 marker with street tires, I would be in the grass with flat spotted tires.

I don't understand your logic.

Both calipers will deliver the same friction force (since we reuse the oem calipers), the calipers clamping on the 10" rotors will deliver more stopping torque. The larger rotors will also have more mass to absorb heat and more surface area to dissipate that heat into the air.

I couldn't do anything but overheat and eat through my 1.6L size race pads at 120mph stops.

both are still limited by traction. if you lock up earlier that means your looking for +100% traction, try better modulation.

with the same sized tire, if you increase the rotor size alone, your stopping distances should decrease.

in my situation I couldn't risk going tback to the track with brakes that faded fast. Now with less aggressive (hp+) pads, the same tires, and and great top speeds and I'm still stopping better than before.



plus the 130hp car isn't going to reach anywhere near the same speeds through the entire course that the 170hp car will see.

I scored front sport brakes for $250, and rear 1.8's for free.

I'm on 1.6 brakes at 94whp currently, and overheating hawk hp+ on two tracks. They aren't fading, but i have a ton of pickup / glaze on rotors. They look milky white, and the pedal feel / nose is super rough.

What setup do you have currently, and do you need more clamping force, or more heatsink?

what pad and what temps are you reaching?

these haven't seen the track yet. only comparison between these is a handful of auto crosses and my 5th gear pulls on 35mph streets ;). however it will be hawk blues this season. and i was never smart enough to use the thermal temp reader i had handy on the brakes.

I'm going to run ducting from my r-pack lip to hp+ on sport brakes in a futile attempt to not deal with running race pads. I expect to buy blues after the first track day. I want those lap records.