My tan tops are the shiznit
#1
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My tan top injectors are the shiznit
Aside from a defective o-ring on #2 injector that failed during the first test run (dumping 2 or 3 gallons of fuel onto the motor) and a bolt on the stock fpr that sheared when I went to remove it, that was the best, easiest upgrade ever. I just toasted the **** outta my directional 205-16s in a third gear roll on. Then smiled all the way home, listening to the little pebbles fly off and hit the inner fenders as they came off the tires.
Get rid of the blue tops people.
Get rid of the blue tops people.
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hahaha pretty funny. I was also playing with the mbc. That run 11+ psi. I was watching the wb, not the boost gauge so I don't know exactly. According to my logs, I have plenty of fuel for over 9 psi. I'm going to leave it at 8-9 today and dyno tune tomorrow, just to be safe.
Fuel delivery is accomplished with a walbro 190hp, BEGi FMU, new fuel filter, fresh 266 cc/min injectors. RC Eng's worksheet shows that I'm good for 235 chp at 110 psi fuel pres. The walbro _could_ be doing more than that.
Brain, how do you post your logs? I'd be happy to share them if I could figure it out.
Ben
Fuel delivery is accomplished with a walbro 190hp, BEGi FMU, new fuel filter, fresh 266 cc/min injectors. RC Eng's worksheet shows that I'm good for 235 chp at 110 psi fuel pres. The walbro _could_ be doing more than that.
Brain, how do you post your logs? I'd be happy to share them if I could figure it out.
Ben
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Last edited by Ben; 11-19-2006 at 11:54 AM.
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Good call Jay.
Fuel system as above, 10psi, 4th gear cruise, throttle lift then go. Street tune with LC-1, second run after installing injectors. No smoothing
Fuel system as above, 10psi, 4th gear cruise, throttle lift then go. Street tune with LC-1, second run after installing injectors. No smoothing
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Last edited by Ben; 11-19-2006 at 02:13 PM. Reason: added zoomed in graph
#11
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sometimes when i get off the gas hard it pegs at full rich, kinda like when you let off the gas and see full lean, that's all your seeing there.
your graph is similar to mine at 9.5psi with the tan tops. however I think your BEGi FMU is allowing you to see better results.
what is your 0~Hg. pressure set to? probably a little higher than 50psi correct?
your graph is similar to mine at 9.5psi with the tan tops. however I think your BEGi FMU is allowing you to see better results.
what is your 0~Hg. pressure set to? probably a little higher than 50psi correct?
#14
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It's not actually rich, it just displays it, then after a second or two it will jump back to the correct reading. It's only if I shift hard after a boost run like when I'm datalogging, I think it's the BOV screwing it up or something.
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When I had the gauge on, I also did the max psi test. 145 psi
I think that my curve is really good considering how little tuning I've done and no o2 clamp. I'm new to both aftermarket turbos and 4 cyls after having 5.7-8 liter american V8s with carbs and 1 unmolested factory turbo rotary.
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Revlimiters work different application to application, but it's usually a 2 stage deal cutting fuel then spark.
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Last edited by Ben; 11-19-2006 at 04:42 PM.
#17
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actually I see 10s with both the OEM AFM and RX7 AFM after 5k.
I think I could do better with a BEGi FMU, so I could increase my base pressure and decrease the max. I have one, but it wasn't working properly, I'm sending it into Corky on Monday.
I dunno whats wrong with my lc-1 but sometimes when i shift the gauge displays full rich, I can drive around for a few seconds, usualy below five where it doesnt react, then it suddenly displays the correct mixture again. It doesn't really bother me.
I think I could do better with a BEGi FMU, so I could increase my base pressure and decrease the max. I have one, but it wasn't working properly, I'm sending it into Corky on Monday.
I dunno whats wrong with my lc-1 but sometimes when i shift the gauge displays full rich, I can drive around for a few seconds, usualy below five where it doesnt react, then it suddenly displays the correct mixture again. It doesn't really bother me.
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I read somewhere that the lc-1 would show false very rich readings in a somewhat rich turbo car if the sensor got hot. It had to do with the combination of heat, pressure, and rich freaking the sensor out without showing and error.
My lc-1 was showing and holding super rich after longer boosted runs, but it was holding around 10:1 not 5:1 That went away after I added an aluminum heatsink between the sensor and midpipe. I never got an error reading on my xd-16.
I still have half of the aluminum sheet left, which you can have if you want it... But I'm not sure it's worth the cost of mailing it.
My lc-1 was showing and holding super rich after longer boosted runs, but it was holding around 10:1 not 5:1 That went away after I added an aluminum heatsink between the sensor and midpipe. I never got an error reading on my xd-16.
I still have half of the aluminum sheet left, which you can have if you want it... But I'm not sure it's worth the cost of mailing it.
#20
not so fast there sir, its not always spark cut. Its actually fuel and ign cut more than likely. Thats why when you have a car such as a miata that uses fuel cut for rev limiting you dont wanna spray nitrous at redline...since no fuel+ lots of nitrous = boom. If you have a car that has ign cut then its fine.