patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Well new (used) transmission got here 1/21/2014 in the morning. I got pulled the tail shaft housing off, pulled the center diff, and took it apart and removed all then needle bearings the planet gears rotate on and replaced them with some custom bushings. Then spent 1.5hrs trying to figure out how to put it back together with that clutch pack on the rear....

Then reinstalled torque converter, 10 other things, had to pull the filter screen from old trans, clean (3.5 bottles of brake parts cleaner) it, reinstall int on my new trans, clean pan, mating surfaces, 21 tiny bolts, install pan, etc. Getting it to this point took about 9 hrs to get it ready to go back into the car.

Somehow put a 200 lb transmission under my car onto a floor jack pad 4 3/4" off the ground after about 30 minutes of struggling to try to do it by myself, then balanced it and after about 40 more minutes it was bolted to the engine and the converter bolts installed. Then hooked up all the stuff that goes to the trans, exhaust, driveshaft, wiring. Then cleaned up and shower.

Still got axles, uprights, wheels, upper trans mount, diff fluid, trans fluid, intercooler/fan assembly, find/buy bolts for a heat shield I somehow lost and install said heatshield, spin on new trans filter, install battery, turn key and see what happens.

I sure hope this thing works! A lot of work doing all this.

On a separate note, I checked the play in the planet gears before/after the bushings and the bushings took out probably 50-70% of the "movement". So much better. If I had the time/parts , I would have installed new pins too as they had a touch of wear that potentially would have tightened it up a bit more.

Hopefully back to doing awd burnouts tomorrow!

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

just as a comparison:

Subaru
Dual Friction ® - Clutch Cover & Disc PN#: DF012628 -- $995.00

Miata
Dual Friction ® - Clutch Cover & Disc: PN#: DF581053 -- $370.50


Subaru
ACT SB5-HDSS - HD/Perf Street Sprung -- $873.00

Miata
ACT ZM2-HDSS - HD/Perf Street Sprung -- $509.00


Subaru
EXEDY 15804 Racing Clutch Kit -- $482.00

Miata
EXEDY 10805 Racing Clutch Kit -- $282.00


I realize it's a larger clutch that can hold more TQ, but I dunno, seems crazy. And its not like the clutch is only for one application, they fit all the 2.5Ls, so that's a lot of different models using them -- unlike the miata clutch that only fit the miata.

I was expecting to pay like $300 for a decent clutch, but looks like I'm just going to stick with OE. That's fine since it can hold the power and it's the same clutch used on the STI.


still looking for a decent writeup. I mean I'm sure I can figure it all out, but some pre-planning would be nice. Everything I find the images don't work.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

In the new body style the wrx and sti use the same clutch and flywheel?

I know in older chassis the wrx clutches are different between the 2.5 and the 2.0 because of pull vs push clutch, and both are different from the sti because the diameter is bigger on the sti. I know I paid $440 for the exedy stage 1 clutch on amazon for my 2.5 wrx. I think it actually would fit your car too.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

apparently FJK1000 FJK1001

Im wrong. The STi is Pull and 10mm larger diameter.


I hate not knowing every stupid little thing like I do with the miata.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

sti was pull for the older ones, the newer ones are push
but even still they are different

you're forgetting that the people that make/sell them have brains and are not morAns. they know that a clutch kit for a 30k car can be sold for moar monayz than a clutch for a 3k car, and no other justification is needed usually

but who cares, your car is bone stock, just get the OE for 300 or whatever

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Does the push style STi clutch/fw work in the push style wrx trannies? I know the pull styles worked with some dremel work on the bell housing. A low mile sti takeout clutch and flywheel could probably be found for cheap money if you know a guy.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

no. different diameter

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I know the clutch is a different diameter. Its like the 1.6 vs the 1.8. Or are you saying the flywheel ring gear is a different diameter or that the diameter difference on the push type sti clutch is so large that you cannot dremel that much material out of the 5spd bell housing?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

define older vs newer.

when I look up the Exedy FJK1001 WRX 06-14 (EJ255) it says push.

when I look up the Exedy FJK1000 STI 04-12 (EJ257) it says pull.


but like you said, doesn't matter, different clutch.


i just wanna know a few things: do i need to pull the DP, do i need to drain the trans fluid, should I get new exhaust gakets and axle seals?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I dunno, because frankly I don't care, because I don't know anyone so frugal that they would do something as idiotic as dremeling out an already weak and fragile and flexy housing on a 30k car to make an oem clutch fit to save some 50 bux

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Depends how you plan to do the clutch. I did mine by pulling the engine out and leaving the tranny in. No need to drain the fluid or remove the axles. It also let me put in a new pickup tube. I just had to disconnect the downpipe from the turbo, disconnect the couple electrical harnesses and set the power steering and a/c pumps off to the side of the engine bay and it came right out besides the locating pins being corroded into their holes it was a piece of cake.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

STUPID N00B!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I already spoon fed you the answers in response to your 1000000,00000 emails

lulz

1) yes
2) it is possible both ways, draining is easier
3) not necessary
4) only if current ones are worn/damaged/etc

so you drained the coolant out of the engine so you wouldn't have to drain fluid from trans?

also its possibru to swap clutch without draining trans fluid, just a pita, and only if you use a lift



Scott,
Drive it to CA, I'll do it for you while you paint your fingernails

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I drained the coolant. The car was due for new coolant anyways, and I wanted to do the oil pickup. I also didnt feel like bench pressing the tranny. What was nice was at the time my dad was still delivering car parts and one of the mechanics he shot the **** with was astounded with how fast we did the clutch by pulling the motor. Apparently doing it in 4 hours is a lot faster than it takes him to do it on the lift.

Do slather anti seize on the trany to block interface and on the locating pins no matter how you do it. Future you will love you if you ever have to break the two apart again.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I'll be in Vegas in Mar. come down, we can go to gay shows together.


im assuming youd all frown on me if i reused my trans oil. lol.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I'm just trying to get ducks in a row is all with what i need to prepare myself for.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I dont think you'll need axle seals, unless you go fae fae on it removing it or unless someone has already been in there and damaged them.

ideally you want a new turbo-to-dp gasket if you remove dp but I've reused those many times before

you want new fluid unless you're really retarded enough to reuse it.

pulling the trans off rusted up pins might be a pain so prepare for that.
removing the shifter linkage will be not the funnest thing in the world so prepare for that.
you'll want locktite and a proper torque wrench for re-assembly
you might need exhaust gasket for midpipe-to-axle back cause you do have to pull midpipe
you will need the weird star looking key thing to remove the trans fluid drain bolt

the rest is about the same as any other car.

the trick we normally use for getting the front axles out is unbolting the lca's from hub to free them up and pull axles out on the inside, leaving them bolted down to hubs and leaving all alighment stuff untouched.

but we use a lift. and we use a forklift to lower the trans, instead of a gay trans lift.

we normally do a complete clutch jerb in 2-4 hours start to finish

petrolmed

iTrader: (8)

Hey Subabros, I'm looking to become a Saabarubabro and get a 9-2x.

Has to be manual with leather seats but I keep going back and forth over the aero/WRX vs the linear/2.5 impreza version. This will be a second car to my daily boosted miata, so the responsible thing is to get a cheaper 2.5 N/A which uses regular gas and not mod it. But then I see hood scoops, turbo, wheels, and stuff on the aero.

One tipping point is engine reliability. From what I've read I'd be better off in that department with the EJ253 N/A than the EJ205 with turbz. The latter seems to have bearing issues with a not insignificant frequency. You guys know these cars better than I, so is there any... bearing on this?

I'm not making the 2006 aero 2.5 turbo and option right now since it's much rarer and thus almost 2x as much in cost, although it seems to solve some of the motor debate above.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Isnt the aero the only way to get a WRX with leather without breaking into the new body style? Japanese leather sucks anyways, it might as well just be vinyl for how much plastic "protectant" they put over it. And the cloth wrx seats are really nice anyways.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

IMO the 253 is not any more reliable, from what I've seen.

In fact, I know plenty of 205's well into the 150k range, some even close to 200 still kickin.

Also the gas savings won't be that drastic, since subaru's are not gas efficient cars. (at least the older ones).

Just IMO.

I'd get the turbo. Because.....well.......