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-   -   DIY Miata rear end trailer thread (https://www.miataturbo.net/insert-bs-here-4/diy-miata-rear-end-trailer-thread-13838/)

rmcelwee 11-04-2007 09:35 PM

DIY Miata rear end trailer thread
 
OK guys, I purchased a '92 for $400 (have not seen it yet) and I am going to cut the rear end off of it and build a trailer out of it. I'm thinking of just going to HF and buying one of those $179 trailers:

(http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90153)

and sitting the rear end on top of it (kind of). I figure I can gut the body and weld in a new "lower" floor (remove gas tank, diff, axels, etc). I want to use Miata wheels/tires (not sure if my new car comes with Daisy wheels or not). I'd like to use stock 7 spoke hollow backs like I currently have on my blue Miata. I am not exactly sure what to do with the front of the trailer. I would like to use the existing fender line right behind the doors and just come right up where the package shelf is. I'm a little worried about weight since my blue car is only pushing about 135 HP. I can't weld aluminum (at least not now - have a basic HF MIG system with gas). So, give me some good ideas! I can use all the help I can get.

rmcelwee 11-04-2007 10:01 PM

Here is an example:
http://www.miata.net/motm/2005/bradley.html

Here is what appears to be a fiberglass trailer:
http://thephotobooth.smugmug.com/gal...192722#5192722

mazda/nissan 11-04-2007 10:12 PM

why not turn the miata around and use the hood as the lid? then there is no lowering of floor just adding one :dunno:

cjernigan 11-04-2007 10:16 PM

That photobooth has some of the gayest pictures of miata's i've ever seen. Must have been a gay parade supporting stuffed animals or something.

As for the trailer I would chop the front end off obviously and do whatever I had to to make it a smooth front with this sheet metal of plywood if I had to. I would strip the entire truck assembly of everything but the latches and spring support. Pull the rear end and cut out any other unnecessary suspension brackets. I would most likely build a box subframe to bolt the trunk assembly that would incorporate my triangle tounge assembly. You'll want to design it so it has weight on the tounge of the trailer otherwise it won't be stable at speeds. I would then weld brackets for leaf springs onto the subframe and bolt up a small trailer axle that is lighter weight than the miata subframe that would accept a 4x100 bolt pattern.
I haven't disassembled a miata rear end before. Maybe you can keep the subframe and just use the hubs some way while removing all the other deadweight. Keep whatever you had to to leave the wheels bolted up. If you were able to do that you could most likely get away with just building a box support forward of it that had your tongue.

rmcelwee 11-04-2007 10:57 PM

I remember the rear subframe being pretty substantial so it will probably be necessary to remove it for weight. I have never purchased metal stock so I don't know how much I can save by not just purchasing the $179 trailer vs buying all the parts and stuff to build my own frame, tongue, hitch (or whatever the female part is called that the ball fits into). The weight of all of this is my primary concern. When I finally yank the 1.6L out of the blue Miata and throw an LS1 in there I won't give a damn any longer. But, that is a few years out...

rmcelwee 11-04-2007 10:59 PM


Originally Posted by mazda/nissan (Post 170879)
why not turn the miata around and use the hood as the lid? then there is no lowering of floor just adding one :dunno:

Wonder how many accidents that would cause on the interstate <G>? I know if I looked up and saw what appeared to be a Miata coming at me I would be locking up the brakes.

cardriverx 11-04-2007 11:08 PM


Originally Posted by rmcelwee (Post 170902)
Wonder how many accidents that would cause on the interstate <G>? I know if I looked up and saw what appeared to be a Miata coming at me I would be locking up the brakes.

hahaha very true

cjernigan 11-04-2007 11:16 PM

2 to 2.5" square tubing is cheap, so that is the least of your worries. Finding a cheap axle and leaf springs will be more difficult though I know they don't cost much. It will have to be the right width and you may need a bolt pattern adapter if one can't be found that runs 4x100.

Savington 11-05-2007 12:23 AM

What's wrong with just leaving the control arms and stock suspension in and taking out the pumpkin/halfshafts?

bradh88 11-05-2007 12:24 AM


Originally Posted by rmcelwee (Post 170902)
Wonder how many accidents that would cause on the interstate <G>? I know if I looked up and saw what appeared to be a Miata coming at me I would be locking up the brakes.

good point, expecially if it had headlights on it too. :eek4:

rmcelwee 11-05-2007 12:43 AM


Originally Posted by Savington (Post 170925)
What's wrong with just leaving the control arms and stock suspension in and taking out the pumpkin/halfshafts?

My primary concern is weight. I think if there is any way I can save a pound or two it will be for the best. IMO, stock shit would be way too heavy but I need to get under the car and take a look around. Once I actually get the car (assuming the seller doesn't jerk me around anymore) I should know much more about what I can/can't do.

I posted a plea for help on the power list and I had a guy mention a friend that is doing this to a 2nd gen RX7. He said that the weight was not much so I will have to take a look at it once I cut the bitch in half.

Trent 11-05-2007 12:43 AM

this gives me an idea. my old miata got totaled in the front. the rear is in pretty good shape. I just may do this as well.

rmcelwee 11-05-2007 12:43 AM


Originally Posted by supersaiyan93 (Post 170928)
this gives me an idea. my old miata got totaled in the front. the rear is in pretty good shape. I just may do this as well.

Or just buy the front half of my car when I am done with it!

y8s 11-05-2007 10:17 AM

buy both ends and make a two-wheel miata. duh.


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