_spyder

iTrader: (5)

A buddy at my work mentioned selling his bike after I told him I was interested in a cheap one that I could toy around with. I know almost NOTHING when it comes to motorcycles, but tonite I went with my friend that has a 99 CBR, who I trust much more than myself, and had him test drive it.

• The body has been repainted all black, it has some dents and scrapes.
• My friend said it shifted kind of hard, but didn't know if it was because it's a 1991.
• It has ~27,000 miles.
• It has a Yoshimura pipe.
• My friend pointed out that the chain was a bit rusty and should be changed.
• Seems to die if not charged (he said there isn't an alternator, but will do just fine if left on a trickle charger, which he does)
• New battery, year old tires, new headlight.

How much would a 1991 Honda CBR F2 like this be worth? I feel confident that I could refresh the body myself, that's not a problem. It's my first bike and I don't want to start with something real pretty anyway. I just want something that will last if maintained. Any known problems or things I should look for?

I feel like I could talk him down to $650 or $700. Would it be worth it? I'm in college, and I would need to get my motorcycle license (heard that's about $300). Maybe I'll just ride with my temps ($30) for a while. I gotta learn to ride first though!

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

?!?

_spyder

iTrader: (5)

That's what I thought. Apparently they all came with something different, to keep the battery going, but not strong like an alternator. I wish I knew more...

gearhead_318

iTrader: (1)

You should start with something with less power, like a Ninja 250R.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

I'd pick it up but more as a project. Sounds like a good deal.
edit: also with the amount of **** you wrote about it... it looks like you want it bad. so why the **** are you asking us? Flip a coin if you like the outcome, good. If not, you already made your decision.

browning

iTrader: (16)

ok bikes dont have alternators they have a stator which is prob going bad. as for a first bike sure it would be fine. its 20 years old its going to weigh around 600lbs and have around 70 h/p which was damn good back in the day.

check the bikes frame out make sure there are no cracks see that it tracks good check the suspension brakes ect... this isnt a car miss something on this and it will kill you. and if you do get it take this from someone that knows get some gear!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! helmet gloves jacket ect... gear is alot cheaper than the er and alot less painfull than skin grafts. good luck

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

I don't have much to add other than an F2 is a fine starter bike. My frist was a '97 F3, just a simple redo of the F2 really, and that bike was docile but still enough power to get you giggling.

Side benefit of carb'ed bikes with a loud pipe: When riding past an ethnic group you dislike you can flip the kill switch, blip the throttle, and throw the kill switch back on as you pass them....kaPOW!

Hondas last forever if they are maintained. Doesn't sound like this one was if the chain is rusty and the stator doesn't maintain a charge.

tasty danish

iTrader: (9)

How involved do you really want to get with this bike? On the plus side, bikes are way easy to twirl wrenches on, on the down side, if you get this bike you will learn how easy they are very quickly.

600-700 is pretty friggen cheap, but keep in mind I have a list of beginner bikes for about $2000 that you'll never have to touch, besides changing the oil and lubing the chain.

So look at it like this: if you are one of those handy junkyard ******* that can build a car for Lemons or GRM 's $2011 challenge and stay in budget, you'll come out with a decent bike for $1000.

^if you are not this guy, go buy a 2003 SV650 for $2000 and enjoy fuel injection and carefree riding.

_spyder

iTrader: (5)

I'd get bored with a 250. My car stomps 250's all day, but I know they really shouldn't be compared. Might as well start where I would be satisfied for a while.

That's my plan. I just wanted to get some more info or input that could give me a good reason not to, or what I should offer for it.

It weighs closer to 400 pounds dry, with about 100 h/p

I didn't look at the frames, so thanks for the reminder, I'll have to check them out when I go back. He has an old Icon helmet with a jacket and gloves that he said he would include for an extra $200, is that about right?

Exactly my thoughts. And my friend told me the same thing about backfiring the carb'ed bike I know it's rough in certain areas, but is it worth it for the price?

I'm perfectly fine with learning. This isn't something I would need everyday, I have a car, so the bike could be fine with some down time. I plan on having sitting for a few days as I take off all the parts for paint. I don't have $2,000 to spend on a bike, which is why this one lured me in. I think with the help of friend's I should be ok if it needs to be wrenched on.

browning

iTrader: (16)

http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/hon...600_f_1990.php

heres the specs on be for warned once you get started the bug will get ya it will be fast for for only so long then you will want bigger

_spyder

iTrader: (5)

Thanks man, it's a 1991 though, so here is the link I found:
http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/hon...600_f_1991.php

I hope to be happy with it for a while!

tasty danish

iTrader: (9)

My point is that it would be VERY easy for you to drop more than $2000 in getting this bike up to snuff, and have less of a bike than one that cost 2K from the get go.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Sounds like a good starter bike. You'll learn some maintenance, and since it already has a repaint and some scratches, it won't matter as much when you drop it (which you will). And once you're "done" learning (you never are), it'll have enough power to keep you from boredom (unlike the 250, as you said).

I'd get a new helmet, having one that fits nicely is always good, and you might as well get the newest safety specs (M2010 are getting cheap[er]).

Replace the chain ASAP, along with having a professional look over the tires. After that most failures will leave you stranded, but not dead.

Stators are about ~125-$300, depending on the bike, and require an oil change. Beyond that, you'll need a stator cover gasket, and possibly a hammer impact driver. Cover comes off (after the oils been drained), unscrew old, rescrew new, plug in, new gasket, replace cover, done.

Mine's failing too, just haven't dumped the $160 on a new one yet. It does work ok on a trickle charger if I haven't used it in a ~week. Maintains battery voltage, but doesn't recharge it. Which can be troublesome on an older carb'd bike, as they might take some cranking to get started.

_spyder

iTrader: (5)

Sounds exactly like the problem. Any idea if the kits or chains on eBay are any good? I was recommended to them by someone. If I can get a cheaper chain and cheaper stator, I'll be sitting pretty money wise. Just wanna make sure it'd be worth saving the money. However, I'm about to go pick this up tomorrow, what should I offer him? He said he'd probably sell it for $700-$800. Not sure.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Statues off eBay should be fine, do some electrical tests with a voltmeter before buying one, could be the wiring or the regulator/rectifier. There should be some tests to varify each link.

I'd avoid eBay chains, not some thing you want to cheap on, o-rings chains are expensive but good. I went with a non o-ring chain for ~$25, so far so good. I believe it depends on how long it lasts and how quiet it is? Could be wrong.

$700 seems like a good deal, assuming the transmission isn't on the way out. Look them up, could be a common problem, 27,000 miles is a lot for a bike. I'd offer $600 and see what happens.

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

My contribution to this thread is this: buy that bike and put the motor on a go cart. Then impress all your friends when they find out you have a go cart with a 600cc crotch rocket engine.

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

This is what I'm talking about...

jacob300zx

I had one, thats a good starter bike that will still do a wheelie or endo when you get brave. I think you can switch the rear shock out for one off an f4I if I remember right which should get you a lower mileage shock cheap and raise the rear a tad to improve turn in. Switch the oil for Honda brand oil and your shifting should improve, if I remember right its made by rotella. Whatever it is we ran it in all brands of bikes back in the day for improved shifting and clutch issues.

Circa 2001

tasty danish

iTrader: (9)

^and don't be a tool like him: wear gear.

Rotella is great bike oil, should save you some $$ over the Honda stuff, especially if, like he hinted at, it's the same.

jacob300zx

**** you douche, I've got 50k miles on bikes. My "gear" was for out of town fun runs. In town I was straight gangsta with a helmet. Blow me you ***, I bet you ride a neon green 250 ninja with matching gear and boots.

Here are some more safety shots for ya bitch