Ari, does the snap ring set go wide enough for a CHRA snap ring?

 

I can confirm that it does not. It will work for the smaller internal snap ring if that's the one you mean, but for the larger compressor housing snap ring it is not wide enough.

 

step drills. surprisingly decent. shanks snap off easy becuase of 1/4" shanks if abused. made a lot of holes with these befoire they went dull, professional quality lasts much longer, but at almost a magnitude of order higher in price. WIN


tranny jack. great idea in theory, execution was horrible. one of the collars that hold the shaft in place broke just lifting the jacks own weight. not really a hard fix, but returned it becuase i shouldnt have to and made a plate for one of my floor jacks. horrible build quality. FAIL



4 1/2" angle grinder. have the red one as pictured. ran for about 15 seconds, had very little power, and then it let all of its smoke out. tried returning it, the offered pay $2 for another with extended warranty, i said sure why not. i have built ridiculous amounts of stuff with this one. i have probably worn out 20 cutoff wheels, 20-30 sanding disc, at least 5 knotted wire wheels, a few flap discs... hit or miss WIN



nitrile gloves, not really any cheaper than anywhere else
5-9 mil- WIN
3 mil- FAIL


2 ton trolley jack.
ive had mine for 6+ years. still going strong. only complaints is lack of thumbscrew on hydrualic release, and the handle doesnt fit the reciever well, so a lot of movement is wasted to sloppy fit which makes things harder when stabbing a tranny under a car.


1.5 ton low pro aluminum quick pump jack
necessitated by vmaxx and lower ride height, the trollety jack no longer fit. only had it for about 8 months, so far so good. about 2 full pumps and the miata is off the ground irrc.

 

Yeah, complete junk. Not worth risking dropping a transmission on yourself.

 

I get 1-2 racing seasons out of the 1.5 ton racing jacks before the seal blows. Once it blows they're so cheap that they're disposable.

 

Luckily we bring 2 to every track day...

 

It looked to me that the cylinder actually goes past the seal at full droop. I've gotten into the habit of storing it raised by one or two pumps, seems to of stopped my hydraulic leak. You could put a really big washer under there to keep it from going that low, but you never know when you might need to go that low.

 

I do not know about a CHRA snap ring, but I was able to remove snap rings for the bearings on a 5-speed transmission.

 

This is the transmission jack that is win.

800 Lb Low Lift Transmission Jack

 

20 degree long needle nose pliers. Bend the tips in on a vise or with other pliers so they are perpendicular to the snap ring in use. makes a decent chra snap ring tool.

Cheap pliers, win for what they are

 

HF/wife win.

Now I have to figure out what to spend my $150 gift card on.

 

I need this.

Does it wall mount?

 

Don't know about that one, but avoid the shitty plastic pegboard type wall mount version (blue and red bins). Bins are brittle/warped, some will not fit over the plastic "hooks". I use is sparingly for tiny/light stuff, but broke several of the bins just trying to install them.

 

Yes, you can wall mount it. It's completely flat on the back and it's 32" wide. Just replace the bolts on back with screws and it should be fine.
The bins are pretty thin, but they don't appear to be brittle. We'll see after some real use. For $30,It's a good deal.
There is a 25% off coupon online now.

 

Off to go buy a die grinder...

 

I might need to go get me an engine hoist...

 

You can find the coupons for the 1ton engine hoists for $99 in Import Tuner magazines every month. Lots of people on here claim it is not long enough to reach in and pull a miata motor, I have always used it and had it work.

 

its not long enough. I only paid $75 for the significantly nicer 1.5ton pepboyz one. Even the much longer 1.5 ton is pressed against the bumper. The 1 ton must require bumper removal or a lot of man handling to keep from smashing the crank pulley and then oil pan on the upper rad support.

 

I have done a dozen motor pulls and install with the 1 ton. When I swap my motor in a month or so I will take a picture of it all with the bumper still on the car. The only thing I do is put a piece of cardboard between the bumper and hoist.

 

You must have to muscle the engine forward with your hands. With the 1.5 ton you just push it right against the bumper, with the engine all the way up and tilted all the way back and just slowly lower it and tilt the engine forward with the load leveler and it drops perfectly into the mounts. But the front of it still just barely clears the upper rad support. The couple inches shorter that the 1 ton is would require me to man handle the engine back to clear it.