Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1159205)
You must have to muscle the engine forward with your hands. With the 1.5 ton you just push it right against the bumper, with the engine all the way up and tilted all the way back and just slowly lower it and tilt the engine forward with the load leveler and it drops perfectly into the mounts. But the front of it still just barely clears the upper rad support. The couple inches shorter that the 1 ton is would require me to man handle the engine back to clear it.
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1159215)
All my engines get removed and installed with the transmission attached, so there is no dropping straight down. You lift the engine up all the way with the hoist and push it forward above the bumper. You then angle the transmission all the way down and slowly push the engine hoist forward and lower the engine/trans as it goes. Once you get the transmission cleared of the fire wall you level it out out and have someone under the car back by the transmission guide the engine into place. If I can find a tripod I may even take a video of me doing it.
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I think you guys are saying the same thing in different ways lol.
I have the 1 ton. I have lifted mills and lathes on bench tops with it. And I've stabbed 3 motors with it. Had it for about 4 years now. No leaks, no complaints. |
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1159203)
its not long enough. I only paid $75 for the significantly nicer 1.5ton pepboyz one. Even the much longer 1.5 ton is pressed against the bumper. The 1 ton must require bumper removal or a lot of man handling to keep from smashing the crank pulley and then oil pan on the upper rad support.
Attachment 239016 Ghosts in the following pictures. Attachment 239017 Attachment 239018 Harbor Freight 1ton engine hoist pulling a miata motor in 45 minutes by myself. No manhandling reguired. Easily cleared the radiator support. So yes the 1ton HF engine hoist works and if you are cheap it is has the cheapest price point of $99.00 with the coupon from Import Tuner Magazine. Attachment 239019 |
Thats a much different one than they sell now. That arm on the gray 1 ton heavy duty is the same length as the red pepboys 1.5 ton. The normal red HF 1 ton has a little baby penis arm thats lucky if it gets to the 2nd hole from the end in length on the hoist you have.
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I have the old orange HF 1 ton. It took the BP with trans out no problem by my self. With the V6 I had to drill new holes in the beam and the arm to give me another 6" or so because yeah it was hard against the bumper (still is but is workable).
It's ok, I is engineer. But don't do it you will die. This is the one I have. It slowly drains oil from the pump so if you have the engine in the air, it won't be there when you come back from lunch. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409054154 |
Angle finder is a fail
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Angle Finder w/ Dial Gauge
I had some moderate hopes for this but it is pretty bad. The magnet is very weak which means it falls off. I tried to make a jig but the resolution is so bad it hovers 5 degrees. It might be one of those things where quality swings wildly as they switch vendors. The magnet finally broke off. The label and a dab of hot glue are all that hold it together. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409418221 |
^^^ I've had mine probably close to a decade now, and it keeps on ticking. Been through more than its share of pinion angle checks, tossed in the track toolbox.
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My experiences with HF so far:
Slim-line Fluorescent Work Light The good: Nice and bright, long cable, plug at the bottom means you rarely need to drag out your extension cable. The bad: Gets pretty damn hot The ugly: Swivel hook busted on me quite quickly, so it doesn't stay pointing where you want. The base isn't holding on to the power cable well, so the outer jacket has backed out. I'm sure in time the wires underneath will start to go since they now get bent a lot. Is there a better work light from HF? 2 Ton Aluminum Racing Floor Jack with RapidPump® The good: Light! Pretty low, fits under a lowered Miata. Lifts fast. The bad: Not low enough to reach my diff or front crossmember. The ugly: I got about 10 uses out of mine before I started getting clicking noises from the mechanism. I didn't have the warranty, so it's a paper weight now. It could just be horrible luck that mine blew so quickly. In retrospect I should've gotten the warranty. I've since gotten a Michelin low pro jack. Heavy as shit, but it's so much lower and reaches diff and crossmember on my car. Professional Mechanic's Gloves Large Win. Love these. I still have a bunch of HF things I haven't tried yet. I'll be sure to post when I have an update. :D |
Originally Posted by arrgh
(Post 1163516)
Does anyone know of a decent work light, either LED or florescent, which either operates off of an internal battery or can run of 12 VDC? I've read lots of reviews of battery-operated LED lights which are disappointing, which mirrors my personal experience with one LED worklight that we have here in the shop- it emits a relatively narrow beam of relatively dim light, as compared to a CFL or straight florescent worklight. Worst-case I can just get a cheap inverter, but having something natively LVDC would be nice. |
Why not DIY something joe with a hobby kit LiFePO4 battery and some china LEDs in a poly carb tube from mcmaster?
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1163532)
Why not DIY something joe with a hobby kit LiFePO4 battery and some china LEDs in a poly carb tube from mcmaster?
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Why 12V? We use the 7. something volt work lights here at work. Plenty bright, and lasts for at least an hour. Plus, the wall wart cord is long enough to use it plugged in for most applications.
Not gonna light up the whole room with it, but it's good as a trouble/spot light. |
Originally Posted by rleete
(Post 1163576)
Why 12V? We use the 7. something volt work lights here at work. Plenty bright, and lasts for at least an hour.
The key point here is that I'd like a bright light with a wide throw that's capable of operating independent of a 120 VAC supply, given that I'm garage-less at the moment. |
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 1163586)
I said that it can either run off of an internal battery, or accept a 12 VDC supply. The unstated assumption was that said supply would be the car.
The key point here is that I'd like a bright light with a wide throw that's capable of operating independent of a 120 VAC supply, given that I'm garage-less at the moment. This light is awesome, a little on the expensive side but everyone who has seen it has been impressed. I never reach for a corded shop light anymore. I also had other Milwaukee 12 volt tools, so it was not that bad for me cost wise. |
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As you wish. Had it for years, works great.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1409790052 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1409790052 |
60 LED SMD LiON for <$45. I have used this for over a year and it performs perfectly. I get 6+ hours always on from a charge and it will run off a power cord while charging.
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4" HF Vise is FAIL. It broke while I was trying to bend weld els.
Attachment 238904 |
Anyone have any experience with the HF generators? "Predator" brand.
Got an email in the mail that have them at a pretty low price right now. Wondering if it would be worth it to try a smaller sized one instead of paying a little more for another brand such as a Honda unit. |
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1165306)
4" HF Vise is FAIL. It broke while I was trying to bend weld els.
https://i.imgur.com/qCGy3xh.jpg |
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1165306)
4" HF Vise is FAIL. It broke while I was trying to bend weld els.
https://i.imgur.com/qCGy3xh.jpg |
Originally Posted by Erat
(Post 1165312)
Anyone have any experience with the HF generators? "Predator" brand.
Got an email in the mail that have them at a pretty low price right now. Wondering if it would be worth it to try a smaller sized one instead of paying a little more for another brand such as a Honda unit. |
Harbor Freight aluminum air tanks are a win
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Never buy the tool sets, always buy the individual tools from there, the individuals dont break as quick for some reason
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Does anyone have the code for the 2ton shop crane super-coupon? I lost mine, and I need to buy one soon.
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2 ton cherry picker code 82384894 expires 3-6-15 $179.99
This one? |
I love you deezums.
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:giggle:
I frequent this thread here quite often. Love my 2 ton crane! Harbor Freight Coupon Thread - The Garage Journal Board |
Originally Posted by deezums
(Post 1185138)
:giggle:
I frequent this thread here quite often. Love my 2 ton crane! Harbor Freight Coupon Thread - The Garage Journal Board Harbor Freight Coupon Thread 04-02-2009 - Slickdeals.net |
So, I started working on a wiring harness for my car AND MORE IMPORTANTLY an old mechanical keyboard.
I am in need of a quality soldering iron and some solder sucker (didn't even know this was a thing). Any good reviews or recommendations of Harbor Freight soldering irons? Or should I look elsewhere? |
Wife bought me this for christmas years ago and it rocks:
BlackJack SolderWerks BK3000LF 70 Watt Solder Station |
Theres always the old standby Weller WES51, looks like the price on amazon skyrocketed since I last bought it.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1188219)
Theres always the old standby Weller WES51, looks like the price on amazon skyrocketed since I last bought it.
Still only $93, which is insanely cheap for a good iron: I've had the older version of this iron for nearly 20 years now, and it wasn't new when I got it. Still haven't replaced the tip. |
my reciept is saying I paid like $74 when I bought mine last year. Maybe it was a sale.
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The Weller looks like something that will, essentially, last me forever.
I'm a total solder noob. My last iron was cheap-o vatozone special that didn't even have a stand. What about recommendations for accessories? Solder sucker? |
Originally Posted by viperormiata
(Post 1188228)
What about recommendations for accessories? Solder sucker?
For de-soldering, I've tried all kinds of gimmicky tools, but short of a >$1,000 Metcal rework station, nothing beats the oldest de-soldering tool of them all; braid: Desoldering Braid : Soldering Tools & Supplies | RadioShack.com (I keep 3 different widths on the bench, to deal with tasks of differing size.) |
The only thing the weller needs is a brass scrubbie to replace the sponge.
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I used the non-adjustable version (WTCPT) of the Weller above yesterday. Took forever to heat up - okay, it was like 3 minutes; I was in a hurry. Anyway, it did fine for both soldering tasks.
Holy crap, that one is $140 on Amazon. I thought it was cheaper. |
I typically use name brand hand tools (Craftsman, Snap-on, Old Kobalt, Old Husky, Klein, channel lock).. That being said, does anyone have experience with hog ring pliers? Not sure which one to get. I do like HF aluminum lifts though.
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The HF snap ring pliers I used sucked I just buy the size I need from mcmaster when I buy them, its cheap enough.
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I like Hakkos for soldering stations, but really any of the name brand stations will do you just fine.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1188330)
The HF snap ring pliers I used sucked I just buy the size I need from mcmaster when I buy them, its cheap enough.
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Originally Posted by chilidip
(Post 1188341)
Thanks, never heard of McMaster before. Just curious have you ever re-covered seats before? If so what size did you use? There seems to be a few sizes.
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Originally Posted by chilidip
(Post 1188341)
Thanks, never heard of McMaster before.
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Originally Posted by cyotani
(Post 1188344)
That't the first time I've ever heard a car guy say that.
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Serious thumbs down for the Harbor Freight ratcheting wire crimpers. Refused to crimp a connector onto the temp sensor line. No problem doing it with the (substantially more expensive) Greenlees that followed.
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Originally Posted by PatCleary
(Post 1188369)
Serious thumbs down for the Harbor Freight ratcheting wire crimpers. Refused to crimp a connector onto the temp sensor line. No problem doing it with the (substantially more expensive) Greenlees that followed.
HUGE thumbs up for the folding steel welding table. I picked that bad boy up for $59 on cyber Monday and don't know how I lived without it. |
I think the tension was wrong, but I tried both ways. I was tired of messing with it and needed it done right. The Greenlee crimpers and uninsulated connectors worked perfectly.
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Originally Posted by PatCleary
(Post 1188761)
I think the tension was wrong, but I tried both ways. I was tired of messing with it and needed it done right. The Greenlee crimpers and uninsulated connectors worked perfectly.
The aluminum bow was perfect for taking to the track, as are the aluminum jack stands. |
HF fail: 1/2" 18V Cordless Impact.
Couldn't break a single lug that was torqued to 86lbs. Best it could manage on install was about 40-45lbs. I knew it had no chance of being a regular use workhorse but this is frickin' ridiculous. Their 1/4" cordless impact still continues to spin off fasteners, but that's a different beast. Here's hoping that last year's Rebco/Longacre 24V cordless impact is actually functional for swapping wheels. Otherwise it'll be time to pony up for a big daddy Milwaukee. |
Sounds like you just got a dud, or it had an almost dead, battery. Return that thing.
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Polypropylene Plastic Service Cart - 24" x 36"
Win. Easy to assemble and very sturdy. The handle wiggles a bit because it just slides into place, but it isn't flimsy. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425986694 |
Leafy, found a blemished 2014 model at Longacre for $10 more... Usual pricebis $279. My price will be $110 delivered. Makes it a pretty easy decision.
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5 Amp Heavy Duty Jigsaw = win.
My other off-brand saw died, picked this one up in a pinch. Pretty beefy, zero issues with it, made some pretty damned accurate cuts, even came with a guide attachment. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1426026650 |
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I keep forgetting to post this...
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1430371216 Total win. Their folding mechanic's pad. About $20. Always the last thing I tuck into the trunk before closing it. Kneeling becomes a non-issue, even on the hardest of surfaces. Plus it helps keep you off the ground when you're rolling around under the car. Wipes off clean. Has velcro straps to keep it compact when you're not using it. Haven't met anyone yet who has borrowed it who doesn't say "man, I have got to get one of these". |
I'll bite:
6 inch cut off saw: Win - if you are doing work with small tubing, its nice not to lug the huge 14inch saw out, I've used it a week or so now, seems great. belt sander -4inch x 36 inch, 6 inch disc sander: win! just tighten everything up before your first use. I didn't, it rattled apart in a day or so, tightened everything good, and now it's been great through 3 or 4 belts. drill press vise: win... it's a basic little bench vise that works just like a little bench vise should. No 2 pipe cutter: fail fail fail, the casting was way out of being straight and so it just wound spiral shaped gouges down my tube. |
Originally Posted by Monk
(Post 1213473)
Polypropylene Plastic Service Cart - 24" x 36"
Win. Easy to assemble and very sturdy. The handle wiggles a bit because it just slides into place, but it isn't flimsy. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425986694 seriously, i read about it in my spare time |
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Front Wheel Bearing Tool is a win. I used this to remove and install the rear bearings on the miata. I wanted a shop press but I have no room in my garage and yes I could've taken it to a shop for the same money, but I'd rather spend money on tools. However, it is no help if the hub is stuck.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1430504701 |
Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
(Post 1228053)
i love tribology.
seriously, i read about it in my spare time |
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