lolol yeah yeah. they just finally started getting used so its the "cool/hip new stuff" I haven't tuned one yet, but really hope I do soon. I want to see what all the fuss is about. In person :)

Then again, to get one with the subaru housing and make it work, you're still spending a ton of money vs like 600-800 for a 20g or 300-500 for a vf series, so its not quite fair.


hell of a powerband tho

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1352421142

I think I'd be happy enough with a VF48 and TBE and a good tune.

I'll save the EFR for my miata.

Back on topic - My buddy has a pretty nice B5 A4. Got it really cheap, it's a nice, clean, well riding car that's not too slow and get's decent MPGs. Oh yeah, it left him completely stranded on the highway yesterday...

vlad, full race makes a kit for a stock location small frame EFR the 6258/6758/7163(due to be released next year) It does come with an up pipe and downpipe since the stock pieces of those dont work with an efr, but it doesnt require a rotated setup until you get to the medium frame EFRs.

*Wait, you already know this because you are quoting the dyno from full race of the 7163 on their stock placement kit.

;)

PS I meant 7163, not whatever non-existant EFR I mentioned earlier.

Problem with stock location Full Race kit is the price. $1600 for the turbo and then $1000+ for an up-pipe and downpipe. $2600+ is a lot of money, and at that price point most people are probably going to start looking at a twin-scroll or rotated set-up anyway.

Most Subie people already have a downpipe, for anyone with any welding and fabbing skills it shouldn't be too difficult to modify your current DP to work with an EFR in the "stock location". Not sure how hard the up-pipe will be to make, it's definitely more than just cutting off the Subaru flange and welding on a T25 flange as even though it's "stock location" the EFR is longer and as far as I can tell it needs to be moved from the true stock location to fit.

I would love to have an EFR on my FXT but that amount of work for a DD leaves a bad taste in my mouth. Current plan for me is to just bolt on a VF48 or something and enjoy that power level, at least for a bit...

Aaaand this is why I will probably end up with an old 4Runner for a tow vehicle instead of a Forester XT. Already, this has devolved in to a "Full Race EFR kit" vs "STi or 20G turbo swap." :D

I'm really leaning towards Scoobies but just for the sake of argument, what do people think about getting a IS300 (the one with the 2JZGE) and putting a turbo on it? I dont think they're all that expensive (which is good 'cause the turbo parts will be) and its got tried and true recipies for making XXX amount of power. Plus I climax every time I hear a turbo spool on a 2JZ.

I've always liked the IS300s. They look good, they get decent-ish mpgs stock and they can be had for cheapish now. I don't know how much work it takes to reliably turbo one but I'm sure there is a wealth of info out there.

Can't go wrong with an I6 car...

Arent they hard to find manuals in? My friend that I bought the wrx from got one with a manual the shifter throw is silly short for a stock shifter but it seems pretty nice. He does constantly have sellers remorse.

Even worse idea than a 2.5T Subaru.

Pick one project car and one commuter car. Your commuter car should not involve engine swaps, non-factory forced induction or anything requiring aftermarket engine management.


I fully expect you to ignore this sagacious advice. :brain:

Yeah, you guys are crazy. My next car is probably gonna be a TDI. 50mpg FTW. But technically my Miata is my DD, and my "other car" is just that, a winter/carry stuff car.

gas mileage doesnt concern me. so long as i can make above 20mpg city, im happy. i suspect with a retune I can make better mpg with the WRX than my 2000 altima. I just got gas today and I made 20.5 mpg. KA24DE powah.

This actually is really good advice.

I currently have a Forester XT DD and just bought a miata.

I have a garage full of parts for both cars, and not enough money to do either properly nor enough time. In all reality both projects will probably suffer.

My plan is to stop doing stuff to the FXT and then concentrate on the miata. But I really want an EFR for both, and e85 for both, and, and, and...

old pic but you get the idea :party:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1352488237


Regarding lexus IS:

A buddy had a couple of them. Car LOOKS fantastic. Pretty decent inside too. Gets terrible gas mileage though, like less than 17 city, is completely SLOW stock, almost as slow as a miata, and requires a bunch of money to boost it right.

Also its rwd so if you live in snow good luck with that.

So MPGs are about the same as an FXT then...?

My good buddy had one a few years ago, I remember him averaging 25ish, probably 80% highway driving. Which is at least 10% better than I've ever done in the FXT...

so get a is250awd

That's weird.
I got consistent 23mph on mine bone stock all city......27 all highway.
With the 20g setup on pump gas 19-22. All city.
With the 20g setup on e85 16-18. All city.

Check my thread on SF.org where I documented it too.
Not sure why half of them get bad mileage and half of them good. I suspect tuning and driver mod;)

A friend of mine had an 05 and basically got what your friend: about 25 hwy and 19 city

This isn't a bad idea. They look fantastic, interior is fantastic, not too bad on gas. But ridiculously slow. If you can deal with the slowness, its a great car.

I don't think I've ever got better than 22mpg, ~75% highway commute. I drive like a nanny most of the time. Stock fueling map (maybe that's part of the problem?). The car does use/leak some oil so maybe it's not 100% healthy...

Maybe the '04s don't do as well as the 06-07?

If I got 24-25 mpg combined I'd be much happier, even though honestly it would probably only save me ~$20 a month.

I've followed your thread on sf.org. Any updates lately?

8.2:1 vs 8.4:1 with different combustion chamber design as well as no up pipe cat is all I can think of.

Just get an E55 AMG with a smaller pulley and upgraded IC.


With snow tires.




That you leave on all year long.