How (and why) to Ramble on your goat sideways
thats what i figured, would be a fun engine in the miata thought. i have no desire to do it because cheap bastard.
Last edited by redturbomiata; 04-09-2013 at 04:05 PM.
That's my completely uninformed guess.
It may take less work/money than an LS swap, but since it is only "that one drift car" I'm guessing it doesn't.
I agree though, direct injection + turbo = fun.
It may take less work/money than an LS swap, but since it is only "that one drift car" I'm guessing it doesn't.
I agree though, direct injection + turbo = fun.
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Hakan, I depowered my rack the easy way (disassembled nothing, just removed all fluids) and had my car aligned for 4.5 degrees of caster. It is an increase in effort over the one finger steering that came from the factory, but it isn't bad at all. If I only had 3.5 degrees I think it would be just fine in slow city switchbacks. The steering feel has increased immensely on the road and so has the driving enjoyment. And no, I don't even lift, bro. I'm more into bourbon, and cigars, and the occasional hookah. BTW, Istanbul is on my travel list.
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Replacing all the eccentrics was a success. I set the caster so it's as little as I can get and it's much better. Not power steering good, but I'm happy. Steering feel much better. Still neeed a new alignment, it's amazing how much those eccentrics move the wheel. I'm sure my tow is outta wack, tire noise was, umm, louder.
And my car at 6.5psi feels significantly faster than the 2560 the 14psi/~270rwhp, once it spools and now that I grew some ***** to push it. So that's cool. Drivetrain vibrations are 95% gone. It's getting enjoyable to drive
Oh, so I hear this girgling in my gas tank after I shut it off. It did it for about 5 minutes. I put it on the lift, started getting the tools together, and I hear this faint bubbling definitely coming from inside the gas tank. So that's odd. Vented the gas cap, still did it. The OEM hard lines go past the one header but everything's wrapped/heat shielded and the lines weren't hot to the touch. Tank was not warm. Strange.
And my car at 6.5psi feels significantly faster than the 2560 the 14psi/~270rwhp, once it spools and now that I grew some ***** to push it. So that's cool. Drivetrain vibrations are 95% gone. It's getting enjoyable to drive
Oh, so I hear this girgling in my gas tank after I shut it off. It did it for about 5 minutes. I put it on the lift, started getting the tools together, and I hear this faint bubbling definitely coming from inside the gas tank. So that's odd. Vented the gas cap, still did it. The OEM hard lines go past the one header but everything's wrapped/heat shielded and the lines weren't hot to the touch. Tank was not warm. Strange.
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How much fuel did you have in the tank at the time, and how aggressive were you when you were driving?
I am thinking about the remote possibility of the pump sucking air if the fuel level was considerably low.
OR,
Do you still have your charcoal canister hooked up?
And, how "good" is your gas cap?
I am thinking about the remote possibility of the pump sucking air if the fuel level was considerably low.
OR,
Do you still have your charcoal canister hooked up?
And, how "good" is your gas cap?
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It was 2/3 full at the time. Probably more. I wasn't beating on it, just thru rush hour traffic, stop & go stuff. I boosted a little thru the parking lot of the store, but that was half of 2nd, maybe 100 feet. Not much.
Spooky sound Car runs great.
Spooky sound Car runs great.
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That's strange.. Gurgling almost certainly means air bubbles.
* Fuel return is at the top, so any air coming out of return lines would not produce the gurgling.
* In that case, it must coming from a submerged source, which is the feed, meaning the pump itself.
* For the pump to produce bubbles, it needs to either a) cavitate and pump bubbles with fuel, or, b) suck in air. (any air allowing opening along the lines downstream of the pump would produce a gas leak otherwise)
* OR, tank vents could be plugged, causing the vacuum formed by the depleted fuel to collapse the tank, which may be expanding later, sucking in air from whatever it could.
Sorry man, it's really tough to diagnose a problem from a gazillion miles away....
* Fuel return is at the top, so any air coming out of return lines would not produce the gurgling.
* In that case, it must coming from a submerged source, which is the feed, meaning the pump itself.
* For the pump to produce bubbles, it needs to either a) cavitate and pump bubbles with fuel, or, b) suck in air. (any air allowing opening along the lines downstream of the pump would produce a gas leak otherwise)
* OR, tank vents could be plugged, causing the vacuum formed by the depleted fuel to collapse the tank, which may be expanding later, sucking in air from whatever it could.
Sorry man, it's really tough to diagnose a problem from a gazillion miles away....
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I initially thought it was a vent problem, but it continued after I removed the tank pressure...there was a not unusual amount of pressure venting.
Acutally, I assume it's venting out, not sucking in. Either way, it didn't affect the gurgling.
It's too quiet to hear unless you are underneath the car and can put your head next to the tank.
I'm not too concerned. Car runs great. Thanks for the help though!
Acutally, I assume it's venting out, not sucking in. Either way, it didn't affect the gurgling.
It's too quiet to hear unless you are underneath the car and can put your head next to the tank.
I'm not too concerned. Car runs great. Thanks for the help though!
Manual steering DD crew checking in.....
Caster less than 4.0*, and it'll be a breeze. If you come to a dead stop, it's tough to move the wheel. At 1mph, it's much easier. Don't go to 6*+ on a DD with a manual rack.
Caster less than 4.0*, and it'll be a breeze. If you come to a dead stop, it's tough to move the wheel. At 1mph, it's much easier. Don't go to 6*+ on a DD with a manual rack.
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From another forum discussing engine management for UGR Lambos where I'm a "d-bag" because I claimed my Miatas drive well and are reliable on poverty computers:
Yeah, $50k engines making 1500+hp and the shops buy a $5000 computer to "slam some fuel in when the boost comes on". Maybe I should give myself a little more credit and not feel so stupid about engine management all the time.
There is nothing wrong with doing this at all this is just that DBags thinking he knows everything. The great thing about this setup is the cars run like stock! The stock computer controls everything until the Motec sees boost then takes over the secondaries. This is why so many "other" shops can't seem to get their TTG cars to run right now I believe Taylor is doing this exact thing and I'm sure Titan is too. These are assumptions heard through the rumor mill.