I guess my LC-1 is broke
 

What a piece of crap.

I'm lookin for a decent tune with my newly installed BEGi FMU. I need to drive the car out of state on Saturday to pick up her new hard top. Can't get any dyno time for 2 plus weeks (first slot was monday the 20th). So I'm tuning off the wb gauge and datalogs. While cruising, I get a/f cycling around 14.7:1 in vac, then suddenly the gauge will show and hold to 10:1 for a while (while cruising at any rpm). It will stay fixed at ~10 (and not even change by .1) for a few minutes, then just as suddenly, will start cycling around 14.7 again.

I wondered if maybe too much fuel pressure was holding an injector open, so I removed the mbc. No change in what the LC-1 showed me, just a little more lag and a little less boost. I also opened up the needle valve a couple of turns (it was already close to full open), and same thing.

I called LC-1 and Fillipe answered again. That was the guy who told me that I shouldn't simulate nb to the ecu. I didn't even bother.

Is anyone available (today or tomorrow) to look over my shoulder and show me if/where I f'd something up? I'll buy the beer/pizza/steak/whatever.

Where do you have the WB located? When the sensor is warming up, you might get a bogus fixed signal.... my Tech Edge did, anyway.

With the number of people using the LC1, you should take faith in knowing that it'll work out right eventually.

Remove the WBo2 and do a free air calibration. When mine mysteriously did the calibration with the car running all sorts of mayhem insued! Mine would peg full lean and just sit there! Is 10:1 the limit it will show? So in your case it's showing off the scale at 10:1. My LC-1 recalibrated after using Logworks, not sure if connecting the mini-stereo jack did it or the software caused it to happen. Once I did the recalibration it's been working fine.

My second recommendation is to stop simulating NB and install the four wire NB back into the DP.

I'd be a little concerned that if the WB is sending the ECU a RICH signal that you are pulling fuel and possibly running lean.

Jay

I haven't callibrated it since I put it in the midpipe last week. I don't think that's the problem, but it's easy enough to try.

Here's more: I started the car and let it idle. The gauge showed sensor warmup as normal. Then it bounced between 15.2-15.8 for a minute. I gave a quick blip on the accelerator, and let off. Gauge showed 14.4-15.1, bouncing between the two, and did so for a few minutes. And all the sudden the gague diplayed 12.1 and held without changing for about 2 minutes. And then all the sudden it started going between 14.4-15.1 again. I really think it's a hardware issue with the LC-1.

<Edit> Spoke with Felipe @ Innovate. He is sending me an RMA so he can investigate the unit for himself. I am surprised how helpful he was today.

That sounds way too errratic to be a calibration issue.

Think it shows richer than 10 to 1 AFR.

A free air calibration tip is to wave the sensor around in the air before calibrating, as the exhaust gas can be "sticky."

Leaf blower stuck up the exhaust pipe?

I bent up a 6"x6" piece of aluminum sheet into a heat sink for the wb sensor, wondering if it was just overheating. Also installed the original 1 wire nb into the greddy dp. Removed the lc-1 analog out from the ecu and probed it with my dmm. Drove 20 miles without any drivability issues or cel. DMM showed that the lc-1 analog out would only work sometimes. Problem found: bad lc-1.

overheating should show error code.

That sucks on the bad lc1.

make sure there are no variances in voltages, is the callbration wire grounded? if so try disconnecting it. if the voltage of the black calibration wire see a a ground voltage different form the rest of the system it will throw it in calibration mode, and that should display 10:1 on the gauge.