I'm a Subie guy now
12-28-2010, 07:52 PM
#61
Deal! We still asking Hustler to video tape us? I'll spring for the lube and protection.
Discussion - good.
Arguments - fine.
Bashing people that aren't <20 posts trolls - not so cool.
Not backing up your statements - weaksauce.
In any event, we all agree there's more than a handful of Subie owners here. Many of us drive modded Subarus (or have in the past). Our experiences run the whole spectrum. No biggie.
Discussion - good.
Arguments - fine.
Bashing people that aren't <20 posts trolls - not so cool.
Not backing up your statements - weaksauce.
In any event, we all agree there's more than a handful of Subie owners here. Many of us drive modded Subarus (or have in the past). Our experiences run the whole spectrum. No biggie.
-I called you out for advertising a shitty Utec and you got butthurt.
Only reason this went on for this long is cause you're stubborn as **** ( so am I ) and refuse to acknowledge the fact that 1) utec is old outdated technology that barely few even use anymore 2) it does nothing to help the car run safer.
-Backing up what statements? that no one uses Utec anymore? Go check the forums and ask the shops. Its not just "my opinion" or something I pulled out of my ***.
I asked you how a utec would help the car run safer combined with an OS tune. Your response was that it has lots of features and went on to ramble on about passing emissions and switching maps. None of that **** is relevant. Adjusting "knock sensitivity" over an rpm range via a piggyback STILL uses the stock ecu, wiring, and sensors to do so. There is no need for it. At all. You can argue this bullshit all day long, but the stock ecu is very well calibrated and has a VERY good system of monitoring and trying to prevent knock, as well as reacting to said knock if it suddenly starts up.
I don't give a crap if you're too damn stubborn to see all of this.
I don't give a crap if you think I'm mad, irritated, bitter, or a know it all. I'm neither of those.
It is what it is. Take it or leave it. IDGAF and I won't post in this thread anymore. People that want my advice will pm me (and do fairly frequently) and I will make a strong/honest effort to help them and give them the best possible advice so their car runs top notch. I'm not a subaru master, or a guru, or a tuning "TOP DOG" like some of the guys on NAZICOCK, but I'll never give ill advice to anyone that would hurt their car. I don't do that ****.
And lastly: anyone else that gets annoyed/irritated/tired of my posts there is a very simple way to fix this: just ignore me. Even better: put me on your ignore list and you won't even see my posts anymore.
I try to help as much as I can and be a contributing member, those that think I'm trolling 24/7 can go **** themselves.
Last edited by 18psi; 12-28-2010 at 08:08 PM.
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12-28-2010, 08:10 PM
#62
Heres a COBB access port local to me $150. Says it's new
http://huntsville.craigslist.org/pts/2118972500.html
http://huntsville.craigslist.org/pts/2118972500.html
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12-28-2010, 10:13 PM
#63
I've been considering the Infamous1 tune for a while now as he gives a slight discount for those running the "itsme" FMIC which I'm doing. Everyone who uses him absolutely loves the results. I think it's normally $150 for 4 iterations via email/datalogs.
But the LGT basemaps by mickeyd2005 off romraider's forum seem pretty decent on my car (other than way rich...I guess that makes them not decent eh) and based off ~2008 posts there it seems infamous1 started with these maps/mickeyd back in the day.
But the LGT basemaps by mickeyd2005 off romraider's forum seem pretty decent on my car (other than way rich...I guess that makes them not decent eh) and based off ~2008 posts there it seems infamous1 started with these maps/mickeyd back in the day.
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12-28-2010, 10:27 PM
#64
150 for an email tune is a great deal.
There are a few well known guys that charge 250 which is also still considered not bad, but lately everyone has been raising prices. Most popular shops charge upwards of 400 for simple setups like tbe only.
Have you dyno'd your hta68 setup? or at least airboy dyno'd it? post some plots if you have, I love that turbo. Perfect for a mid 300whp street setup, won't die past 20psi and same size as vf's. Nice little sleeper
There are a few well known guys that charge 250 which is also still considered not bad, but lately everyone has been raising prices. Most popular shops charge upwards of 400 for simple setups like tbe only.
Have you dyno'd your hta68 setup? or at least airboy dyno'd it? post some plots if you have, I love that turbo. Perfect for a mid 300whp street setup, won't die past 20psi and same size as vf's. Nice little sleeper
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12-28-2010, 10:58 PM
#65
150 for an email tune is a great deal.
There are a few well known guys that charge 250 which is also still considered not bad, but lately everyone has been raising prices. Most popular shops charge upwards of 400 for simple setups like tbe only.
Have you dyno'd your hta68 setup? or at least airboy dyno'd it? post some plots if you have, I love that turbo. Perfect for a mid 300whp street setup, won't die past 20psi and same size as vf's. Nice little sleeper
There are a few well known guys that charge 250 which is also still considered not bad, but lately everyone has been raising prices. Most popular shops charge upwards of 400 for simple setups like tbe only.
Have you dyno'd your hta68 setup? or at least airboy dyno'd it? post some plots if you have, I love that turbo. Perfect for a mid 300whp street setup, won't die past 20psi and same size as vf's. Nice little sleeper
Some of my runs were under 2 seconds from 60-80mph at this altitude. And, I'm pretty sure Infamous1 was able to get some guys running E-85 near sea level close to 400wtq (and maybe over, but don't quote me) on the 68hta.
Here's the plot you requested:
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) 2 liter with one on e85:
12-29-2010, 07:16 AM
#68
Wishing my 5EAT didn't suck for power mods. Family wagon so the wife drives it most of the time. I guess I don't need to go down the mod road as I did with my FXT back in the day (circa '04-05.).
I guess I'll stick with the stage 1+. Mabye tune it a bit better. Gotta finish my Miata first.
I guess I'll stick with the stage 1+. Mabye tune it a bit better. Gotta finish my Miata first.
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12-29-2010, 08:07 AM
#69
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My LGT is hitting 334awtq/321awhp on airboy's spreadsheet. Just as important to note; I am in CO at 5200' and these numbers are not corrected for altitude. I think he charges more than 150 for stage 3, but it's not much more than $200 and I think he's running some special right now.
Some of my runs were under 2 seconds from 60-80mph at this altitude. And, I'm pretty sure Infamous1 was able to get some guys running E-85 near sea level close to 400wtq (and maybe over, but don't quote me) on the 68hta.
Here's the plot you requested:
**plot**
Some of my runs were under 2 seconds from 60-80mph at this altitude. And, I'm pretty sure Infamous1 was able to get some guys running E-85 near sea level close to 400wtq (and maybe over, but don't quote me) on the 68hta.
Here's the plot you requested:
**plot**
I'd hate to mod my car past it's current "stage 2.5" as it's my daily driver and I cannot have it break down ever, especially in the winter. but over 300whp & tq would be sweeeet
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12-29-2010, 10:36 AM
#70
Very nice! What other mods? Fuel pump/injectors, which exhaust, etc? How much boost peak and at redline?
I'd hate to mod my car past it's current "stage 2.5" as it's my daily driver and I cannot have it break down ever, especially in the winter. but over 300whp & tq would be sweeeet
I'd hate to mod my car past it's current "stage 2.5" as it's my daily driver and I cannot have it break down ever, especially in the winter. but over 300whp & tq would be sweeeet
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12-29-2010, 10:38 PM
#71
Very nice! What other mods? Fuel pump/injectors, which exhaust, etc? How much boost peak and at redline?
I'd hate to mod my car past it's current "stage 2.5" as it's my daily driver and I cannot have it break down ever, especially in the winter. but over 300whp & tq would be sweeeet
I'd hate to mod my car past it's current "stage 2.5" as it's my daily driver and I cannot have it break down ever, especially in the winter. but over 300whp & tq would be sweeeet
). Running 21 psi tapering to 19. You could easily run 24 tapering to 22 at a lower altitude due to being in a better compressor efficiency range. I've been running over 320 whp as a dd for two years with no issues at all. I am sure a lot of that is due to the tune - learning view shows no significant knock after running for months on end.
I'm running the itsme fmic, but you don't need a fmic anymore (if you are adamant about using a tmic). BNR will make you a hybrid hta68 out of the stock vf40 and you can run E85 on the tmic.
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12-30-2010, 07:57 AM
#73
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Unfortunately no E85 out there, just E10 in the winter. I already have the itsme FMIC on my outback. Requires cutting the bumper beam as the '05 OBXT beam is different, but still an easy install.
I guess I'm hesitant to pull the trigger on a different turbo & associated increased durability risk because at ~85k this extremely well maintained, old-guy driven EJ25 had a burnt/cracked exhaust valve. Within a month of purchasing I had the engine apart in the heart of last winter (and the miata shows it with extra surface rust
). It's now got Manley valve springs, inconel exh valves, & TI retainers (cheaper than stock replacements!) but I didn't have the funds or time to replace the pistons or whatever else I should have done while it was apart. boo hoo.
For not much more than a BNR hybrid I could get a standard garrett turbo, at the expense of also redoing the up/down pipes and intake/IC plumbing (cha ching!) and unknown benefit over the hybrid turbos. I hear those Mitsu turbos are really efficient. But if I do go garrett I would really like to do a rotated blow-thru setup where the air filter is where the TMIC was originally but again that opens another can of worms about drivability on a blow-thru MAF setup. Then again it might not be an issue, haven't really researched it much.
I am wondering this myself. ???
I guess I'm hesitant to pull the trigger on a different turbo & associated increased durability risk because at ~85k this extremely well maintained, old-guy driven EJ25 had a burnt/cracked exhaust valve. Within a month of purchasing I had the engine apart in the heart of last winter (and the miata shows it with extra surface rust
). It's now got Manley valve springs, inconel exh valves, & TI retainers (cheaper than stock replacements!) but I didn't have the funds or time to replace the pistons or whatever else I should have done while it was apart. boo hoo. For not much more than a BNR hybrid I could get a standard garrett turbo, at the expense of also redoing the up/down pipes and intake/IC plumbing (cha ching!) and unknown benefit over the hybrid turbos. I hear those Mitsu turbos are really efficient. But if I do go garrett I would really like to do a rotated blow-thru setup where the air filter is where the TMIC was originally but again that opens another can of worms about drivability on a blow-thru MAF setup. Then again it might not be an issue, haven't really researched it much.
I am wondering this myself. ???
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12-30-2010, 03:27 PM
#74
I should have actually gone with the wally250, lol. No need to go with the AVO.
The main reason for the BNR would be that they are very reasonably priced (when compared to the old Deadbolt, current AVO turbos) and the fact that they are good quality, very easy to install, bolt on turbos, that can give you a really nice power increase.
Rotated is great, but personally, I wouldn't do it on stock pistons, rods...
The main reason for the BNR would be that they are very reasonably priced (when compared to the old Deadbolt, current AVO turbos) and the fact that they are good quality, very easy to install, bolt on turbos, that can give you a really nice power increase.
Rotated is great, but personally, I wouldn't do it on stock pistons, rods...
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01-07-2011, 11:36 AM
#77
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Wishing my 5EAT didn't suck for power mods. Family wagon so the wife drives it most of the time. I guess I don't need to go down the mod road as I did with my FXT back in the day (circa '04-05.).
I guess I'll stick with the stage 1+. Mabye tune it a bit better. Gotta finish my Miata first.
I guess I'll stick with the stage 1+. Mabye tune it a bit better. Gotta finish my Miata first.
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01-10-2011, 08:22 AM
#78
Going with the V8R/FM custom pan. Problem is it's a pain to swap out.I really don't give a **** about the Miata during the winter. I'll probably work on it in March-April when it warms up a bit.
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01-10-2011, 09:24 AM
#80
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'05 LegGT and an '05 OBXT. I need to swap out the oilpan in the Miata. The modded F-body pan leaks. Going with the V8R/FM custom pan. Problem is it's a pain to swap out.
I really don't give a **** about the Miata during the winter. I'll probably work on it in March-April when it warms up a bit.
Going with the V8R/FM custom pan. Problem is it's a pain to swap out.I really don't give a **** about the Miata during the winter. I'll probably work on it in March-April when it warms up a bit.
How does the OBXT ride compare to the FXT/LGT? I rented one and drove it around Washington and Oregon for a month but it was a non turbo OB. The interior was quite nice.
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