MAF Relocation Kits
 

http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/in...topic=22422.15

An e-friend messaged me today because he moved his MAF sensor on his MSM and now can't figure out why it runs like shit. I can't believe someone not only makes this piece of shit, but that it's sold to so many people. I also appreciate the comedy of a forum that's full of our rejects.

At least he won't be surprised when his car runs like a gutshot Mexican.

Smoother/Stronger Power - but i cant drive it on hot days.

As opposed to weaker power?

My power is angry

In your opinion, what makes it a piece of shit? Build quality? Design (blow-thru conversion)? I don't want to read thru all those pages to see what the issue is.

That's one way to get a VTA BOV to work with the factory ecu.

It's not configured to work with pressurized air. That's not really how a MAF works as I understand it. I assume that pressurized air cools the MAF-wire differently than it's factory orientation.

So you pay nearly $200 to be able to run a vta bov? lulz

I think you do not understand how a hot wire anemometer works, or I don't. I won't explain it but Y8s or one of the other wizbang ME's here may. MAF's should measure mass flow and that shouldn't change based on where it's in the system. But if you play with how the air flows across the sensor (misc bends, harmonics, whatev) then you may be screwed and not know specifically what's causing the issue (or more importantly, what the fix is). I had a huge issue with my old subaru and MAF placement, it was fixed by adding 4 inches of pipe between it and the turbo. Going blow-thru by itself doesn't mean it won't work.

Theoretically the calibration should not change, but in the real world it may. It seems like it's working for most people. Being able to run a VTA isn't the only reason to try it; a MAF of xxxx ID is more of a restriction pre turbo than post turbo.

Lotza MAF cars run a blow thru stylie.

Any time you change the path of the air pre-maf you have to re-tune to keep it happy.
You throw an intake on a scoob you have to re-tune or it will run like ass. Same with evo's.

I'm almost positive this isn't any different. HOW the air travels will definitely change how the sensor picks it up. On paper and in theory it looks like it shouldn't matter(like you said) but in actuality it very much does.

it should technically be more accurate as a blow through. Where is the AIT sensor on the MSM located?

My K&N typhoon on the obxt fortunately didn't result in it running like ass.

Sometime you are fine, most times you aren't.

Well "like ass" may have been a bit exaggerated, lol, but it definitely makes afrs a bit bouncy and erratic on many/most cars.
Did you log with a wideband and it was identical to stock? Cause that's really surprising if so.
The "power gain" claimed from these bolt on 65mm intakes is usually a result in leaner afrs and more proneness to knock/garbage. When tuned to compensate most of the gains either disappear or are significantly reduced, and become very minute. Which is why unless you're going for over 350whp most tuners advise keeping the stock intake box/tract.

But back on topic: I can totally see the MSM running like ass from re-locating that sensor and not tuning for the change. This is just my .02 though

I don't log (lazy), just glance at my WB and see if i'm lean. It's leaner than before (was off the scale rich), now it's like 11.1 or so. A lot smoother and feels like a noticeable gain in midrange and a bunch up top. I wouldn't have purchased it if not for getting it for a good deal. I just installed it two weeks ago; been running a fram filter on the stock airbox until then because I think the factory box looks pretty slick with it's cold air snorkel and all. I don't like the constant woooosh noise I get when towing my boat and the shitty fit. Sounds great around town; not when it's constant for an hour.

Back to the MSM...

IIRC in the intake box.

It is. More reason for it to run like shit I suppose.

but they move it to the TB pipe by the MAF. I at least saw that pic.

Has two, small standard NB1-NB2 on the filter box, bigger metal one on the pre-TB elbow. Different sensors btw.