My tan top injectors are the shiznit
 

Aside from a defective o-ring on #2 injector that failed during the first test run (dumping 2 or 3 gallons of fuel onto the motor) and a bolt on the stock fpr that sheared when I went to remove it, that was the best, easiest upgrade ever. I just toasted the shit outta my directional 205-16s in a third gear roll on. Then smiled all the way home, listening to the little pebbles fly off and hit the inner fenders as they came off the tires.

Get rid of the blue tops people.

too bad they can only handle so much HP. but yeah, better than the blues. I just did some wideband readings with them, seemed to like 7psi with a 7:1 rise the best. 9psi was pushing it.

I am quite happy with my blue tops. :hsugh:

you spin 3rd gear @ 7psi? what kinda crappy tires do you have...thats what I wanna know.

or how wet was the grass you were driving on?

hahaha pretty funny. I was also playing with the mbc. That run 11+ psi. I was watching the wb, not the boost gauge so I don't know exactly. According to my logs, I have plenty of fuel for over 9 psi. I'm going to leave it at 8-9 today and dyno tune tomorrow, just to be safe.

Fuel delivery is accomplished with a walbro 190hp, BEGi FMU, new fuel filter, fresh 266 cc/min injectors. RC Eng's worksheet shows that I'm good for 235 chp at 110 psi fuel pres. The walbro _could_ be doing more than that.

Brain, how do you post your logs? I'd be happy to share them if I could figure it out.

Ben

Ben he's probably just doing a screen shot and posting the .jpg

Good call Jay.

Fuel system as above, 10psi, 4th gear cruise, throttle lift then go. Street tune with LC-1, second run after installing injectors. No smoothing

zoom in on just the WOT run. But it looks like you are just above 13:1 for a bit and then run at 12.5:1, that's not bad.

here's the best I could do with them:
http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/7psi_265cc.jpg

Odd how it goes so rich at the end of the run... I thought the rev limiter was fuel cut.

I added a graph above. LogWorks is pretty cool.

Ben

sometimes when i get off the gas hard it pegs at full rich, kinda like when you let off the gas and see full lean, that's all your seeing there.


your graph is similar to mine at 9.5psi with the tan tops. however I think your BEGi FMU is allowing you to see better results.

http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/9psi_265cc.jpg

what is your 0~Hg. pressure set to? probably a little higher than 50psi correct?

That's odd. When ever I get off the gas and coast I see off the scale lean. Which to my understanding is how the OE ECU was supposed to work. Fuel economy I guess.

I don't understand what would be causing you to see REALLY rich when you lift off the gas.

Revlimiter IS cutting the spark. Otherwise you'd go dangerously lean everytime you hit the revlimiter.

It's not actually rich, it just displays it, then after a second or two it will jump back to the correct reading. It's only if I shift hard after a boost run like when I'm datalogging, I think it's the BOV screwing it up or something.

Probably. I hooked up a Mac 150 psi gauge when I installed the BEGi and set 0 vac at 60 psi then removed the guage. I decreased pressure a few turns after looking at my lc-1 logs. When I put in the bigger injectors yesterday, I turned it down about 1 turn and the first run was rich so I turned it down another 1 turn. I haven't put the gauge back on it. I don't know how much 1 turn of the screw affects pressure, but it's 60 psi - 4 or 5 turns. The needle valve is maybe 2 turns from full open. I didn't use the restrictor.

When I had the gauge on, I also did the max psi test. 145 psi :ugh2:

I think that my curve is really good considering how little tuning I've done and no o2 clamp. I'm new to both aftermarket turbos and 4 cyls after having 5.7-8 liter american V8s with carbs and 1 unmolested factory turbo rotary.

When I'm on it pretty good and let off, it will go rich very briefly before it goes lean. But I see 12's and only very quickly. Braineack goes insane rich. His car has a lot of areas that could contribute to the "problem"--vortech, 2 fuel pumps, rx7 afm.

Revlimiters work different application to application, but it's usually a 2 stage deal cutting fuel then spark.

actually I see 10s with both the OEM AFM and RX7 AFM after 5k.

I think I could do better with a BEGi FMU, so I could increase my base pressure and decrease the max. I have one, but it wasn't working properly, I'm sending it into Corky on Monday.

I dunno whats wrong with my lc-1 but sometimes when i shift the gauge displays full rich, I can drive around for a few seconds, usualy below five where it doesnt react, then it suddenly displays the correct mixture again. It doesn't really bother me.

I read somewhere that the lc-1 would show false very rich readings in a somewhat rich turbo car if the sensor got hot. It had to do with the combination of heat, pressure, and rich freaking the sensor out without showing and error.

My lc-1 was showing and holding super rich after longer boosted runs, but it was holding around 10:1 not 5:1 :eek: That went away after I added an aluminum heatsink between the sensor and midpipe. I never got an error reading on my xd-16.

I still have half of the aluminum sheet left, which you can have if you want it... But I'm not sure it's worth the cost of mailing it.

Where do you guys have your wideband sensors installed?

not so fast there sir, its not always spark cut. Its actually fuel and ign cut more than likely. Thats why when you have a car such as a miata that uses fuel cut for rev limiting you dont wanna spray nitrous at redline...since no fuel+ lots of nitrous = boom. If you have a car that has ign cut then its fine.