New Beater
02-19-2013, 09:22 AM
#21
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Oh, and changed oil. Drained it but only a quart came out. Got under there with the dipstick and started poking in the drain hole and the thick water-infused oil would rope out like it was taking a dump. Poked the drain hole for 10 minutes to finally get all of the old gooey oil out.
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02-19-2013, 09:25 AM
#22
Absolutely. She knows it's a beater. You have to realize we both grew up on working farms. She's been around vehicles of this caliber her whole early life. She's driven tractors and grain trucks. She drove this one like the last time she drove a stick was last week instead of several years ago.
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02-19-2013, 09:42 AM
#23
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Why would it do that? It's been like this for 60 years already, it isn't going to self-destruct like that. Old stuff like this is made out of thick steel. That's why they may get rusty, but don't really rust out. The rust actually makes an oxide layer that prevents further rusting. It's only if you disturb or remove the rust that it starts anew.
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02-19-2013, 09:43 AM
#24
Well then I learned something new today lol 
My only experience with rust, at all, were the few Datsun 240's that I looked at a year back or so. The ones with rust you could poke holes through body panels with your finger. They were all early 70s cars, so I guess not "old enough"
My only experience with rust, at all, were the few Datsun 240's that I looked at a year back or so. The ones with rust you could poke holes through body panels with your finger. They were all early 70s cars, so I guess not "old enough"
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02-25-2013, 11:37 AM
#25
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Installed new wheel cylinders and return springs. I have one front wheel that won't bleed. I think the line is blocked somehow. Standing on the brake and opening the bleeder and even the brake line yields no fluid at all.
Drove it anyway, maybe 20 miles, three wheels is enough to stop from it's max speed of 45. Came home and dropped the oil/ATF. It looked good so I'm good to go. The oil filter housing has no filter. I sucked everything out with my mightyvac. Most of it was pure water. Filled it up and I'm going to drive it. Oil changes once a year will be less than 1000 miles so filter is optional. Actually, the year prior motor didn't even have a filter.
I ordered master cylinder rebuild kit. It's leaking. Should have just done it when I bought the wheel cylinders but didn't. Will pick up some oil filters, too. Can't get them at NAPA.
Re-wired the headlights last night. The wires were completely rotted off. They work fine now. Horn, too. Tore into the heater. After cleaning the contacts on the switch I had power to the fan but no-go. Ordered new fan motor when I ordered the master cylinder rebuild kit.
New money pit. That is all.
Drove it anyway, maybe 20 miles, three wheels is enough to stop from it's max speed of 45. Came home and dropped the oil/ATF. It looked good so I'm good to go. The oil filter housing has no filter. I sucked everything out with my mightyvac. Most of it was pure water. Filled it up and I'm going to drive it. Oil changes once a year will be less than 1000 miles so filter is optional. Actually, the year prior motor didn't even have a filter.
I ordered master cylinder rebuild kit. It's leaking. Should have just done it when I bought the wheel cylinders but didn't. Will pick up some oil filters, too. Can't get them at NAPA.
Re-wired the headlights last night. The wires were completely rotted off. They work fine now. Horn, too. Tore into the heater. After cleaning the contacts on the switch I had power to the fan but no-go. Ordered new fan motor when I ordered the master cylinder rebuild kit.
New money pit. That is all.
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03-01-2013, 11:53 PM
#30
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Rebuilt master cylinder. Still no fluid to LF wheel but I didn't anticipate that would change. Removed brake hose and can't blow through it-it's completely collapsed.
Going to see if Lincoln Clutch and Brake can make one. If not, another order. Master cylinder doesn't spit fluid out the top now, so that is good.
Installed new heater motor. Have heat and defrost now. Well, I have a lot of noise but not a lot of air but that seems par for the course. Fan itself looks pretty inefficient. Heater core was clear when I blew through it, so that is good. It's $260 for a rebuild.
Going to see if Lincoln Clutch and Brake can make one. If not, another order. Master cylinder doesn't spit fluid out the top now, so that is good.
Installed new heater motor. Have heat and defrost now. Well, I have a lot of noise but not a lot of air but that seems par for the course. Fan itself looks pretty inefficient. Heater core was clear when I blew through it, so that is good. It's $260 for a rebuild.
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03-02-2013, 12:10 AM
#31
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Is it still a 6v system? We had an aftermarket 6v blower with some ducting to the vents. It was still crappy but sounds a little better than stock. Is your cowel vent operational? That brought more air in than anything.
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03-10-2013, 02:27 PM
#34
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Normally, I am not a big fan of all the filters people use these days.
However, those are very appropriate. That second, black and white-ish shot looks like it could be original.
However, those are very appropriate. That second, black and white-ish shot looks like it could be original.
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04-21-2013, 11:15 PM
#36
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Added a bit of Miata to the truck tonight. All it had was a cherry bomb muffler and it was loud. I had a stock exhaust system with a Magnaflow muffler in it from a Miata laying around so I cut it up and welded it right to the end of the cherry bomb, so now that's a resonator, lol. The absolute minimum effort to make it fit was expended. Left the ricer exhaust tip on it as well. Can't see it anyway. Quick drive confirmed what I hoped. Significant reduction in exhaust note.
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