S2K motor problems
 

Alright guys here's a little story about a friend of mines S2k.

Bought the car with 50k km about two years ago, strict maintenance schedule, motul oil, hamp filters ect ect.

Takes the car to a couple hpde's, nothing to hard. Then while on the track he gets a "low oil" light flash, he shuts it down asap brings it to the pits, oil level wasn't low, everyone rights it off as an glitch.

Couple weeks later oil pressure is the suck, no vtec, faint knocking, motor is fucked. Find out there is some issue with main bearings and oiling on the early F20's, and premature and excessive wear causes problems for the bottom end.

Sooooo he finds a F22 with a fucked head and does a hybrid swap, F22 bottom/F20 head.

When ding the swap he DOESN'T get the head decked and shortly after he gets oil and coolant mixing. Moron right.

Drives the car for a couple weeks, engine overheats, he in the meantime saves up enough to redo the swap job.

Machine shop takes off 5 thou from the head and says its perfect. Block is straight edged and flawless.

So everything is back together and low and behold, after two days of driving oil level is down and coolant has oil in it again.


Now aside from my buddy going broke over this stupid problem its really starting to bug me because even I'm running out of ideas here.

Some more info on the F22 motor; the head was over decked (they actually took off part of the VIN tag :S ) and the pistons came into contact with the head. Pistons still looked fine though. And the motor was overheated as a result of the pistons fucking up the head and gasket ect.

The F20 was fine until the main bearings ate it.

So the mating surface is now out of the question (or is it?) what other possibilities are there for the coolant and oil to come into contact?

Thanks,


-Dean

If the head is decked too much, and the slugs hit the head...its time to start over. No point in keeping anything.

Cracked head? If the problem followed him to two different blocks... and I wouldn't trust the pistons after contact. Something is going to be bent.

n/m, Hustler beat me. I agree with what he says. Junk it all and start fresh.

"pistons hit the ______" = throw it all away

These motor from the factor come very close to the valves hitting the pistons. so if the head got deck too much then need for a head.

I think you answered your own question. Did the piston come in contact with the head from the factory? If not, junk the head, and do a quality rebuild on the bottom that includes new pistons.

If the pistons arent coming into contact with the head maybe its a cracked oil or water galley somewhere?

See thats the thing it DIDN'T follow him on different blocks.

No problems with the original F20, other than the worn out bearings which fucked his bottom end, F20 head was still fine.

The F22 bottom end runs fine in the car other than the mixing.

The pistons came into contact with the head but if I took a picture of the pistons they look perfect (a slight bit of wear on the edge of the piston wear it came into contact, but that would only cause blow-by and smoke, which the car has zero of)

So how hard is it to crack an Alum block/head oil or water gallery? I would think you'd have to create quite the knock, to the point of fucking you pistons completely, to crack a gallery or water jacket.

Appreciate the opinions guys.

The head that made contact isn't being used, the F20 head is mint, its the F22 block (which was the block the pistons hit the head) that we are using with the F20 head.

And I know if it was me I would junk this shit and start over but really the bottom end from the F22 runs great, revs fine, no knocks, seems perfect except for this dam oil/coolant problem.