2ndGearRubber

But at least the throttle will act right. It's hard to screw up the throttle response of a steel wire.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I can understand what you're saying, but there's actually a delay between throttle input and an actual reaction from the motor.

thank about it this way, if you open the throttle the engine speed should increase.

if I put my foot down, i expect the engine speed to change, not wait a measurable amount of time before something happens, I dont believe that has anything to do witht eh CR and turbo plumbing. that might effect the amount of TQ and turbo response, but the throttle response is severely lacking, I shouldn't be able to have my throttle pegged to the floor and wait for the motor to do something...regardless of how handicapped it is on the exhaust side.

It's like this

when the car is in motion, so long as I'm already on the throttle, it reacts perfectly fine. But if I have to say downshift to 2nd or 3rd and floor it, I feel like I have to wait for a reaction before the motor starts to wind up. Like I'm driving an automatic with a torque convertor that doesn't do anything.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

lol you make it sound like you go wot, wait a few days, then the car moves.

drama llama

10 or 20 years ago people said the same thing about carbs vs efi

Efini~FC3S

iTrader: (4)

'92 Accord?

Captive brake rotors?

FU*K THAT

I seriously want to kick whoever at Honda R&D Japan is responsible for that bullsh*t in the *****. Seriously.

Other than that it's a fine automobile

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Kinda how Y8s described it when he drove it the other day, and he dailies a DBW mini...

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I dunno. I have driven a ton of subaru's over the years and know for a fact my fxt had better/crisper throttle response than all dbc wrx's I've driven.

Maybe you got a lemon

2ndGearRubber

EFI had massive upsides, and much less maintenance. DBW has the exact same amount of maintenance as a cable (ie: none), yet due to emissions standards is being used by car makers to fubar something that should be cut and dry.




Use an "on car" brake lathe, or do a retrofit from some acura model.

Very good car through. My buddy had one that snapped a timing belt, and tipped the #4 valves pretty bad. Tested at 80 pounds of compression on number 4, but we got it to run with a 25 gap spark plug. Ran for about 5 months after that, progressively getting worse, until he sold it. Still got 15mpg with a dead cylinder, and a blinking drive light (no-overdrive) transmission.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I bet I just need to lower/eliminate my CL/OL delay.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

cl/ol delay only applies to the transition from vac to boost and has nothing to do with throttle response. it will smooth out your power deliver real good at the expense of a couple mpg tho

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

from what i've read it's literally a timer to get into OL once you're surpassed the pre-determined conditions for such, I think mashing WOT should put me into OL.

I should pick up a **** ton low-end torque from getting the AFRs richer during spool as well. I remember my last log I didn't like how long the ECU held the AFRs at 14.7 anyways.

MPGs are not a worry, because I know how to drive. I'm currently averaging 24mpg in stop and go traffic. I'm getting 29-30 in hwy cruise and 15-19 running to the store and sitting at stoplights and parking lots and crap. I'm averaging 23mpg a tank.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

LOL this is a subaru tuning thread now

Yeah I know all that. 0 delay feelzguudman

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I think mine's still at 75 or 100, down from the default of like 15 minutes.

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

My girl has a DBW Mini. She loves it.

I could crash that car into a bridge, I'd watch, I'd let it burn....I'd laugh maniacally.

That damn car has three debilitating problems...

First, the speedometer is off by 20%....20%? ******* SERIOUSLY? To do 75 (GPS Confirmed) I have to put the speedometer on 90mph. What the ******* ****?

The second debilitating problem is the transmission - and I'm quite sure that the second problem is aggrivated by the first. She bought (before I knew her) a CVT car. If you're indicating 60mph, the transmission doesn't know what "gear" to be in, it speeds up, then slows down, then speeds up.... at 55mph, if you slowly let off the gas, the engine RPM SPEEDS UP, and at most speeds it seems that if you floor it the RPMS go DOWN... Why the hell would the RPMs go down if I floored the car? That makes absolutely zero sense whatsoever..."I need to pass a car, so lets move to a far less torquey portion of the RPM range!!!"

Finally, on topic with this thread, the third, final, and most frustrating debilitating handicap on this car is the DBW throttle. If I'm at a stop sign and need to turn left onto a busy street, this is how the throttle works:
1. Floor it.
2. Car immediately moves forward so as to ensure that you make it into the "rightbound lane" of the intersection.
3. Throttle pauses, still rolling slowly forward
4. Throttle still pauses.
5. Throttle still pauses.
6. I look 200 feet to my left at the car approaching me at 55mph, wondering if I'm going to die or if he is going to take mercy on the poor soul in the mini cooper sitting in the middle of the intersection
7. Car lurches forward, propelling me rapidly towards the ditch on the far side of this "T" intersection, I jerk the wheel to the left to make sure I don't crash into the ditch on the far side. Finally I'm in the "leftbound" lane.
8. The SUV Behind me, which I should have been well and safely ahead of at this point in time, has white smoke pouring out from his sliding front tires, with his bright lights flashing in my rearview mirror, and his horn blasting out decibels for all to hear.

I think at this point, I've almost died in that mini cooper 3 times because of the throttle response. I'm not exaggerating how much of a problem it is.

In other circumstances, while stopped at a traffic light ready to drive forward.

1. Light turns green
2. Push lightly on the throttle pedal
3. Car barely moves
4. Push slightly harder on throttle pedal
5. Car moves barely faster
6. Push slightly harder on throttle pedal
7. Car is moving slightly faster than turtle at this point
8. Push slightly harder on throttle pedal
9. Front tires squeal, my girlfriend in the passenger's seat suffers a bad case of whiplash, and now I have to listen to her whine about how I shouldn't floor her car from a stop light.

Oscar

iTrader: (2)

Take a vid. I cannot imagine modern cars being this shitty (and possibly dangerous)

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Sounds exactly like my experience with the Euro-spec VW CC.

This must be a German thing.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

sounds like my issue too. i like to weave in traffic and sometimes i can mash it even in 2nd, switch lanes, and the car does not go forward; then suddenly 18psi -- luckily not 18-wheeler on my bumper.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

So the moral of the story is that some Mazdas, some VWs and some Minis have a DBW configuration which, to some drivers, seems less optimal than the configuration found in some Subarus.

Glad we settled that conclusively.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

here, i illustrated my issue:

18psi

iTrader: (76)

propped

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

RE: mini cooper DBW. Our experience with an '03 Cooper S.

They do a great job making the car feel like it has a 50lb flywheel, which it obviously does not.

I have also experienced the 'holy **** I'm going to die WTF" while trying to accelerate briskly infront of oncoming traffic. And heaven forbid a tire slip slightly, then it seems to shut off completely for a couple seconds.

I click off the traction control as one of the first things when I get in the car. Then it's a completely different car, very fun. Except for that damn heavy flywheel effect.

EDIT: I've been completely happy with the factory DBW maps on my '05 subaru OBXT. 5MT car with a 'heavy' WRX flywheel, it does what my brain wants it to