Thinkin' about picking up a bike (1991 Honda CBR), help?
 

A buddy at my work mentioned selling his bike after I told him I was interested in a cheap one that I could toy around with. I know almost NOTHING when it comes to motorcycles, but tonite I went with my friend that has a 99 CBR, who I trust much more than myself, and had him test drive it.

• The body has been repainted all black, it has some dents and scrapes.
• My friend said it shifted kind of hard, but didn't know if it was because it's a 1991.
• It has ~27,000 miles.
• It has a Yoshimura pipe.
• My friend pointed out that the chain was a bit rusty and should be changed.
• Seems to die if not charged (he said there isn't an alternator, but will do just fine if left on a trickle charger, which he does)
• New battery, year old tires, new headlight.

How much would a 1991 Honda CBR F2 like this be worth? I feel confident that I could refresh the body myself, that's not a problem. It's my first bike and I don't want to start with something real pretty anyway. I just want something that will last if maintained. Any known problems or things I should look for?

I feel like I could talk him down to $650 or $700. Would it be worth it? I'm in college, and I would need to get my motorcycle license (heard that's about $300). Maybe I'll just ride with my temps ($30) for a while. I gotta learn to ride first though!

?!?

That's what I thought. Apparently they all came with something different, to keep the battery going, but not strong like an alternator. I wish I knew more...

You should start with something with less power, like a Ninja 250R.

I'd pick it up but more as a project. Sounds like a good deal.
edit: also with the amount of shit you wrote about it... it looks like you want it bad. so why the fuck are you asking us? Flip a coin if you like the outcome, good. If not, you already made your decision.

ok bikes dont have alternators they have a stator which is prob going bad. as for a first bike sure it would be fine. its 20 years old its going to weigh around 600lbs and have around 70 h/p which was damn good back in the day.

check the bikes frame out make sure there are no cracks see that it tracks good check the suspension brakes ect... this isnt a car miss something on this and it will kill you. and if you do get it take this from someone that knows get some gear!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! helmet gloves jacket ect... gear is alot cheaper than the er and alot less painfull than skin grafts. good luck

I don't have much to add other than an F2 is a fine starter bike. My frist was a '97 F3, just a simple redo of the F2 really, and that bike was docile but still enough power to get you giggling.

Side benefit of carb'ed bikes with a loud pipe: When riding past an ethnic group you dislike you can flip the kill switch, blip the throttle, and throw the kill switch back on as you pass them....kaPOW!

Hondas last forever if they are maintained. Doesn't sound like this one was if the chain is rusty and the stator doesn't maintain a charge.

How involved do you really want to get with this bike? On the plus side, bikes are way easy to twirl wrenches on, on the down side, if you get this bike you will learn how easy they are very quickly.

600-700 is pretty friggen cheap, but keep in mind I have a list of beginner bikes for about $2000 that you'll never have to touch, besides changing the oil and lubing the chain.

So look at it like this: if you are one of those handy junkyard fuckers that can build a car for Lemons or GRM 's $2011 challenge and stay in budget, you'll come out with a decent bike for $1000.

^if you are not this guy, go buy a 2003 SV650 for $2000 and enjoy fuel injection and carefree riding.

I'd get bored with a 250. My car stomps 250's all day, but I know they really shouldn't be compared. Might as well start where I would be satisfied for a while.

That's my plan. I just wanted to get some more info or input that could give me a good reason not to, or what I should offer for it.

It weighs closer to 400 pounds dry, with about 100 h/p ;)

I didn't look at the frames, so thanks for the reminder, I'll have to check them out when I go back. He has an old Icon helmet with a jacket and gloves that he said he would include for an extra $200, is that about right?

Exactly my thoughts. And my friend told me the same thing about backfiring the carb'ed bike :) I know it's rough in certain areas, but is it worth it for the price?

I'm perfectly fine with learning. This isn't something I would need everyday, I have a car, so the bike could be fine with some down time. I plan on having sitting for a few days as I take off all the parts for paint. I don't have $2,000 to spend on a bike, which is why this one lured me in. I think with the help of friend's I should be ok if it needs to be wrenched on.

http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/hon...600_f_1990.php

heres the specs on be for warned once you get started the bug will get ya it will be fast for for only so long then you will want bigger :)

Thanks man, it's a 1991 though, so here is the link I found:
http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/hon...600_f_1991.php

I hope to be happy with it for a while!

My point is that it would be VERY easy for you to drop more than $2000 in getting this bike up to snuff, and have less of a bike than one that cost 2K from the get go.

Sounds like a good starter bike. You'll learn some maintenance, and since it already has a repaint and some scratches, it won't matter as much when you drop it (which you will). And once you're "done" learning (you never are), it'll have enough power to keep you from boredom (unlike the 250, as you said).

I'd get a new helmet, having one that fits nicely is always good, and you might as well get the newest safety specs (M2010 are getting cheap[er]).

Replace the chain ASAP, along with having a professional look over the tires. After that most failures will leave you stranded, but not dead.

Stators are about ~125-$300, depending on the bike, and require an oil change. Beyond that, you'll need a stator cover gasket, and possibly a hammer impact driver. Cover comes off (after the oils been drained), unscrew old, rescrew new, plug in, new gasket, replace cover, done.

Mine's failing too, just haven't dumped the $160 on a new one yet. It does work ok on a trickle charger if I haven't used it in a ~week. Maintains battery voltage, but doesn't recharge it. Which can be troublesome on an older carb'd bike, as they might take some cranking to get started.

Sounds exactly like the problem. Any idea if the kits or chains on eBay are any good? I was recommended to them by someone. If I can get a cheaper chain and cheaper stator, I'll be sitting pretty money wise. Just wanna make sure it'd be worth saving the money. However, I'm about to go pick this up tomorrow, what should I offer him? He said he'd probably sell it for $700-$800. Not sure.

Statues off eBay should be fine, do some electrical tests with a voltmeter before buying one, could be the wiring or the regulator/rectifier. There should be some tests to varify each link.

I'd avoid eBay chains, not some thing you want to cheap on, o-rings chains are expensive but good. I went with a non o-ring chain for ~$25, so far so good. I believe it depends on how long it lasts and how quiet it is? Could be wrong.

$700 seems like a good deal, assuming the transmission isn't on the way out. Look them up, could be a common problem, 27,000 miles is a lot for a bike. I'd offer $600 and see what happens.

My contribution to this thread is this: buy that bike and put the motor on a go cart. Then impress all your friends when they find out you have a go cart with a 600cc crotch rocket engine.

This is what I'm talking about...

I had one, thats a good starter bike that will still do a wheelie or endo when you get brave. I think you can switch the rear shock out for one off an f4I if I remember right which should get you a lower mileage shock cheap and raise the rear a tad to improve turn in. Switch the oil for Honda brand oil and your shifting should improve, if I remember right its made by rotella. Whatever it is we ran it in all brands of bikes back in the day for improved shifting and clutch issues.

Circa 2001

http://inlinethumb59.webshots.com/45...600x600Q85.jpg

^and don't be a tool like him: wear gear.

Rotella is great bike oil, should save you some $$ over the Honda stuff, especially if, like he hinted at, it's the same.

Fuck you douche, I've got 50k miles on bikes. My "gear" was for out of town fun runs. In town I was straight gangsta with a helmet. Blow me you fag, I bet you ride a neon green 250 ninja with matching gear and boots.

Here are some more safety shots for ya bitch

http://inlinethumb50.webshots.com/48...600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb37.webshots.com/47...600x600Q85.jpg

ftfy

lol, lord helmets are so lame touche

Thanks for proving my point. He's a new rider and should be sent the right message, at least to start out with. Congrats on 50K miles, welcome to the club, you'll die just the same if you crash though.

And it's an 03 Aprilia Tuono with an engine swap from an 07 and ohlins/carbon all around, and a Daytona 675. My leather track suit is MotoGP. I prefer AGV or Suomy on my face. Have fun going "mad dorifto" in your neighborhood. You aren't even scared of wrecking, that's so bad-ass!

I guess always wearing my G-suit, Survival Vest, and helmet when I fly the T-6B makes me gay too?

Yes, you are gay.

Your helmet is what saves your life. The leathers are for rash. Normally the rash is not going to kill you. Just the list of bikes you have tells me your a snobby prick. Its always guys who don't have superior control of their bikes that dish out shit on the rest. Show me a picture of you doing a stoppie/rolling burnout and I'll change all my posts into this thread to "tasty danish is correct, he is the man". Until then stfu, your just a scared little freeway commuter.

You're right, I am. That rides every single day, almost without exception, and has a track habit. And that has gone down at 100MPH twice, once on the track and once on the street, and jumped right up and finished the race or rode home, respectively. And once I went down at 35mph and could hardly move from the huge raw hole in my side for 2 weeks. I pick gear.

Heheh.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6027/...ac87e523_z.jpg

Wow. Sexy Combo

I don't know if that's just clever picture taking, but that looks really clean. Not what I had envisioned from your description.

Couldnt' agree more.

The pictures doesn't show the scratches, but you can't even see them from a few feet away anyways. It was repainted with a spray guy and stuff, isn't perfect, but still looks great. Not a rattle can job at all. I spent the whole day washing, polishing, and waxing it today. Man does that make a difference. Other than that, it's great. I threw a new battery in to see if the problem continued, and it's gone. I think I just got a great bike for $700 with jacket and gloves. Only time will tell.

If it's a bad stator, the battery will only cure the problem temporarily. My '85 holds the battery's charge, but doesn't add to it. Since it can take a while to start with carbs, it'll eventually be too low to start. The two 55w headlights I added don't help.

Check voltage off the three (should be yellow) stator wires. Should be 60 volts. Check the battery at idle, should be 11-13 volts. Check again at 5000rpm. Should be 14-15 volts. This is roughly what I do to check my stator, yours might differ, but try and see what you get.

Edit: stator wires are checked at idle, with one unplugged at a time.

could be rectifier as well. bike looks clean for that vintage. straighten it out and do some track days.

True, but Honda r/r are notoriously reliable. I have a cbr r/r on my bike even. Which is why I gave detailed tests, his charging system should be extremely similar to mine if the r/r is the same.

roger roger. always was a fan of those rear wheels.

You. Are an idiot.

1.) I LOVE F3s. A fantastic first bike if ever there was one. Respect it, and you will have a long and happy 2 wheel'd career on it. I had an F2 that had 65k miles on it, and was flawlessly reliable.


2.) Just 'some jacket' isn't enough. I don't know what dude gave you with the bike, but I won't ride to the end of the street with an Icon/ Joe Rocket/ etc squid jacket. I'll ride Alpinestars, Dianese, Vanson, etc. If it wasn't made from big, mean German or American cows, and filled up with well designed multi layer armor, its not safe enough. Rash is a miserable thing.

Thurday afternoon, one of my buddies fell off his R1 in only a helmet, and looks like a walking scab. Palm peeled open, asphalt burns everywhere, and a dislocated elbow. He was just minding his own business on the way to lunch and a puddle of oil jumped out from under the Burick in front of him. You do not want this. Wear a jacket, gloves, leather boots, and a lid made in the US, Japan or Europe. Every time you hit the starter button. No other choices.

BTW, about 2 years ago, I high sided myself off of my old DRZ400 supermoto about a mile from where my buddy went down on Thursday. I would have been very dead had I not been wearing gear. Instead, I rode the bike home all bent and sad looking with a scuffed helmet and a wear-through on my favorite Alpinstars glove.

"I don't even touch the starter button until I'm locked in a steel cage. "


"this one time, in band camp, I destroyed my bike, my gear, and put my mind and body through trauma, then road home. lol."

It's a leather cage. You're welcome to fantasize about that.

If I remember right the rectifier can be damaged in a crash due to being in the tail? Curly is right though start diagnosing the problem because it will be back.

And to all of you tools that full leather up to drive around town. :) lol Its not a bullet prood vest or magical armor. If you get t-boned at 50mph your probably going to die no matter what your wearing. I agree that road rash sucks but so does showing up to work with swamp ass. I should start wearing my roadrace suit, gloves, shoes, balaclava to the grocery store for laughs. Does anyone wear a metal chain suit like for shark diving? Post pics if so. I bet it would breathe better than 2mm thick leather.

Comes with what's called a regulator rectifier, or on older bikes a regulator and rectifier. Sounds like this one's is toast. A common issue and easy fix. Or could be the stator.

I didn't read past the few first post so my apologies if this was already said. I've worked in the M/C industry as wrench/service advisor and sales for the past 6 years if you have any other questions, shoot.

Yup, they used to be separate on older bikes, all one unit on newer ones (post early 80's).

so thats it then? all or nothing? you are either dead or a little rashed? full race gear or helmet and t-shirt? so simple!

I guess I can throw all of my gear away now and get a sweet icon helmet and ride around with impunity now.

For the record with a good mesh jacket, I sweat about exactly the same as if I was naked, and having gone down with one at 100mph, they are good enough to walk away from it with just some scrapes and bruises. The jacket was toast, but it did its job. Mesh is awesome for hot places

And full leather... I feel like I'm in a bubble. you just hop right back up like nothing happened and go grab your bike. After 3 track downs, the leather doesn't even look like it's been used. awesome, but impractical.

I've already mentioned the huge scar on my side from a 35mph wreck with no gear, considering I don't sweat any more with a mesh jacket, it's a pretty obvious choice.

Exactly why I was happy to pick up this F2. Heard they are reliable and will last. I don't need anything super fast or super new/cool, and this bike just does the trick. It's been down before so I don't have to get all pissed when I lay it down myself.

I figured out some stuff on my gear, and after looking it up, it looks decent, not top of the line by any means though. I've got a Vega mesh jacket, an HJC helmet, and some Alpinestars carbon fiber gloves. The gear is good for the weather and good for just cruising around here. I can't see myself getting all dressed up in full leathers and boots.

^ I'm with this guy. I'll be bringing the bike in to have it checked out and probably have them change the fluids, check the forks/brakes, and then have them check out a unhooked hose underneath that I noticed yesterday. Maybe I can get a picture of it on here if anyone wants to see what I'm talking about. Other than that, the bike has been great.

Thanks for the input everyone, it's appreciated. Glad to know I've got people on here that know their stuff because after just browsing for an F2 forum, I can't come up with much. Curly, you've had very helpful info, thank you. I'll be looking into the R/R and stator issues.

Does it have carbs? That unhooked hose is the overflow. Come to think of it my buddy's 650r has one and it's fuel injected. It's supposed to stick out an inch or two past the frame, right about where the foot pegs are.

here ya go, scroll down to the picture with the fairings off.
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2067305
you can see two hoses unhooked by the kickstand pivot.

Yep it's got carbs. It looks just like those hoses in that last picture, but there is only one. It has a tiny little hose clamp on the end of it, which is what made me think it should be attached to something though. I'll see if I can go out and snap a pic.

Can you trace it back to it's origin? Does anything come out of it, lol?

Doesn't seem like anything comes out of it, and it seems to run to the gas tank.

To the petcock, or to a separate breather fitting? Does it have a fuel valve/ physical switch?

Most likely it went to the airbox, to reburn any fuel vapors.

Or to a vacuum operated petcock. I can't remember if F2s/ F3s have a mechanical one or not.

I believe he said it was running, wouldnt do so without the vacuum line hooked up, unless it was in prime, in which case he would be asking about his recurrent fuel puddle.

Not necessarily. I owned 4 carbureted bikes before I came across one that would bleed fuel if the petcock was left on. If the needle valves are tight enough, it would be fine.


I do think you're right about the tank vent to the airbox, I'm just saying it's a possibility.

I'll see if I can quick snap a pic and post back here.

Just a tidbit for you to consider, having owned a bunch of bikes notorious for having bad R/R's

replace it with one from a new cbr600rr. get on ebay and look up an FH008 regulator and do the requisite reading (being a member here, that should go without saying) on fitting it. They run cooler and charge the battery better.

Word is getting around that this is a hot setup. Both Aprilia and Triumph communities are 100% sold on this, and it's like $40 so if you got to do it anyway...

I'll definitely look into that tasty danish.

Here are the pics of the said hose.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6130/...a9b7e21d_z.jpg
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6027/...ddd0a7ca_z.jpg
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6135/...1fb39eb1_z.jpg

Yeah that should go to some sort of vent, it's plugged back into the air box for emissions. Leave it as is, although if you really want to hook it up, it'll go to a vent somewhere on the carbs or gas tank. Carbs should have two, one between 1&2, one between 3&4, my particular gas tank has two, one in the front, one in the back, both along the spine of the tank, on the bottom.