my car just either liquifies the tires or bogs down....... If I could hit a 2.0 60ft, I'd hit 12's as long as I made all my shifts.....

%90 of stoplight racers can't launch with a tree on a track.

Frank

I want to see this race on PINKS!

I'm unsure how to read this... We are talking about track 60fts... and you make comments about street racing.

If its at me... I only race on track... typically only roadcourse... but I find the dragstrip an amusing visit every once in awhile.

I was merely commenting that I find it wierd that the Miata guys aren't pulling better 60fts. The benefits of rwd weight transfer just seem like an awesome advantage... even though the cars balance probably negates some of the typical weight transfer.

I've yet to drag the miata... but I found it launched quite well at the one AutoX I drove it at last summer.

If the comment wasn't at me.. because of the FF car etc.... what do you mean by it? How does it relate to talk of launching a miata at the track and 60ft times?

or... is it to the miata guys pulling the not so hot 60fts... calling them out on their stoplight escapades?

It is somewhat hindered by the IRS rear which is suboptimal for drag racing. It doesn't launch nearly as well when applying 300 RWHP to a 205/50/15 street radial.

Mark

I guess the issue is tire then and finding a wider/sticker solution.

300 and a 205 street tire can definitly cause issues off the line. My 195s and under 200hp were a workout to get to stick for the 2.1 60s.

I wonder what a wider street tire... or a DR or even a nice slick could do though. I also wonder... how does even the 7inch rearend hold upto that type of abuse.

The half-shafts and transmission will break before the 7" rear.

I don't really understand why everyone here seems to be running the 205s. I have 205s now and I'm really looking to do some 225 or 245 with rolling or flaring. Is there a benefit I'm missing to the 205s? Also, isnt there a slight disadvantage to the 7" torsen rear based on the fact it takes precious time for the torsen to engage compared to say the RX-7 clutch type or a welded diff?

Most guys, not just in Miatas, think they're the fastest, etc and look at magazine numbers figuring they can duplicate them and then get the drag strip and can't drive for shit. Drag racing takes practice. Tire pressures, RPMs, feathering the clutch to avoid wheelspin, not bogging, etc. Couple that with the fact that very few boosted Miatas ever see a dragstrip, and you've got bad 60 foot times.

Bottom line is, if a person comes onto a car forum and asks if they can beat so and so car at the dragstrip, they've probably never been to a dragstrip and their 60 foots will show it. The good thing is, the cars they are racing probably have never been to a dragstrip either.

What the hell is an FF car? Fast and Furious?

Frank

Gran Trusimo talk? Front engine, Front wheel drive?

As opposed to FWD, rear engine or FWD, mid engine?

:dunno:

Frank

FF - front engine, front wheel drive (as braineack said)
FR - front engine, rear wheel drive
MR - Mid engine, rear wheel drive
AWD... sorta sells itself.

Thanks for clarifying what you meant btw, as always the internet is a fun place to say what you mean... and for others to understand what you say.

And I agree with you completely.

Tire size, IRS and lowered with stiff springs all hurt. Miata guys tend to be road course guys, if you're a 1/4 mile guy it's not likely you have ever considered driving a miata. It's just 2 different groups. The few that get to the dragstrip is usually just for fun on a friday night. The miata guys that take the 1/4 seriously and build for it are far and few between. Maybe a couple dozen nation wide.

I made about 20 passes a couple of years ago. MY best 60' was 2.0 . obtained by holding the rpms at 4to 5K and leting out the clutch slowly , ie.lots of clutch slipping and then rather slowly flooring it. If you don't have any experience trying to launch a turbo miata then I would reccommend practicing. probaly could do it anywhere without a timing device because when you get it right you will know it but it is hard on the clutch, and very hard on the car if you try dropping the clutch since you either get wheel spin or wheel hopping, and with the drag radials it will most likely be wheel hop

My drag radials are 225's, I just didn't run them yet.

Mark

uh oh, NHRA says that covertibles under 14 seconds require a roll bar...??
I don't know how that applies to my car if I had the hardtop on? or if I can even fit in there with a helmet. hmm

leave it on and they wont say anything, tech inspections are usually a fat redneck with a beer and clipboard who has you sign and writes a number on your window.

I once got turned away because I DID have a full roll cage (in the race car). The tech guy figured the car was fast, and said they didn't want to deal with fast cars that day.

How do you keep the wheel hop to a minimum if you spin on launch? My miata (and all my friends) have aweful wheel hop.

ladder bars

technique, stiffer springs with more travel. being a low rider doesn't help at the drag strip yall.

MS launch control ;)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dHuUfSPbhko

what's more badass is the "flatshift"!

You running a solid rear on your car? last I checked ladder bars are a no no on SLA IRS.

drag bags.

Stiffer shocks, longer softer springs, and torque arms.

video please.

Skanky chicks that hang out at the drag strip?
Skanky chicks that hang out with drag queens?

Whatever it is, it sort of sounds painful.

Philip you run in some interesting circles.

When I drive in straight line quarter mile races I shift 15 times like in the Fast and the Furious. If Paul Walker can do it and win I can't understand why I never win :(

drag bags, fat bitches, i just call them ballast.

Good luck Ben own some Ferrari ass.

:rofl: hustler you fit some lader bars and make them work with a miata dif and i will buy them from you for 1 K dollars, if they work.

+1
Ben,
You have to make one run first, just beat his ass then and if hey kick you out your like fuck, I didn't know that ;)

explain flat shift? is that when it sets a revlimit between shifts so you can just go fucking wide open?

You can just leave the gas pedal on the floor and shift... it imposes a temporary soft revlimit below the normal one to hold rpms at while you change gears.

I don't know if I have the balls to try it though!! But yes, flatshift is a revlimiter that engages with the clutch pedal, allowing you to stay at WOT through the run.

I might just play dumb, "I didn't know it could do that, I mean stock it's in the 17's." :gay:

fuck I would...just be like, my first time out, stock it runs 17s man, lets see what she has :)

I thought it was something like that, I didn't know megasquirt would do that...now, since your not lifting wont you be able to hold boost between shifts?

Yeah maybe he won't notice the drag radials. Everyone has them on their first run, right? :bigtu:

No, you won't hold boost. You may not be moving the throttle mechanically, but you are still removing the load (with the clutch) and dropping rpm (via MS)

once I get my shit together and get tuned I'm borrowing a set from a friend for my first outing :)

update?

the ''''FINAL COUNTDOWN'''' IS friday.

Start by removing the rear sway bar and setting the rear shocks to soft.

Why would you remove the rear bar? Not too many corners in the 1/4 mile you know :)

I am dying to see if that rear holds, if it does, I'm waiting for a bit. Especially considering I will only be at 10psi when its done. Its great being the underdog. And crowds love miatas at the strip, its odd, until you get your ass kicked by one.

So just some fat hoe in the trunk ought to do it? I wonder how many bags I'll need to fit her in the trunk.

lazzer408 <-------------- :nuts:

good question, but I would take his word for it as I believe Mark knows a thing or two about drag racing.

I believe it has to do with allowing the car to put to power down more evenly, since the sway bars are connected, if the right rear digs in to the pavement the other will lift up a bit and spint, and you dont launch as solid and straight.

I don't really know why, I am not a suspension guy, I do know that I had much more severe wheel hop problems with the bar than without. I still get some wheel hop occasionally but not nearly as much.

Mark

This sounds plausable. And I guess it might be worse (or better?) if you have some amount of pre-load on the sway bar.

here's an interesting discussion....http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=69407

I think I was on the right track.

brainy is on the right track IMO - it's all about compliance. Similar to why road racers unhook swaybars in the rain - the priority moves from high G lateral traction where the sway is important, to surface traction where the tire's postion to the track is important. btw- hybridZ is a good resource for DIY car projects.

did you win??

he's probably still at the track picking up pieces of his diff off the track

got one more week you impatient bastards

I'd pay to see this race.

the worst they will do is tell you. You can't run anymore. then since you just beat a ferrari realy wont care to much though will you. if you lose it migth suck but atleast you will have the reason that is it just to fast for them. ;) Tell them it is just a Greddy Kit it's only supposed to be 150 whp :rofl:

Hahaha. He would be pissed : /

Just tell them you have no idea what the car will do but that you are hoping to crack into the 15's. If it runs a 12, they won't be happy but they might not say anything. Keep the top up or on and it will be much easier for you. They let me run with a hardtop and a simple harddog bar all night in the 12's and I know that wasn't legal (although close to legal.)

Mark

Bump... I want results.