WARNING!! CAS O-Ring Fails; Head Gasket Stop Leak Fails!!! Must Read!!
#282
it's this point where I should mention that my dad (former not-famous race car driver/builder) once told me I could re-seat the rings in an old motor by pouring in the no-longer-existent "liquid bon ami" cleanser, letting the car run a few minutes, and then flushing the oil.
To be fair, bon ami is meant to be mild...
oh and just to keep joe famous:
To be fair, bon ami is meant to be mild...
oh and just to keep joe famous:
#292
Boost Pope
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If you'd prefer, I can cut a custom version of it for you with The Weather Girls' "It's Raining Men" as the bed under that piece.
Oh, and just to thoroughly shock everyone, an On-Topic comment:
Replaced my head gasket this weekend, with the help of Abe, who provided a straightedge, beer, and muscle. (Thanks, Abe). Head was flat to within .0015", which is a happy thing. Thoroughly de-carboned the chambers and pistons, which took a while but revealed that there was nice, shiny metal under all that crud. A note to those planning to use ARP head studs: Do not install the studs into the block and then expect to lower the head down onto the studs. Even with the CAS removed and in the garbage can, there's not enough clearance in the back.
#294
Joe,
You did have your hood on. But I don't think that was it. Anyway, a better note would have been:
To those putting on ARP studs, return them while you still can, and buy something worthwhile.
Who here has had miata headbolts fail? The biggest waste of money I ever did on my car was replacing my headbolts the third or fourth time I put them back in. And I know reliability.
Where do you take your boost signal? Something tells me your MBC is plumbed at the turbo outlet. Move it over to right in front of the throttle plates, and EBC will be some weird bad memory you'll never want to revisit, like all those men you kissed in college just to prove how confident you were in your heterosexuality.
P.S. Don't wear your mod hat while reading that last bit. :-)
You did have your hood on. But I don't think that was it. Anyway, a better note would have been:
To those putting on ARP studs, return them while you still can, and buy something worthwhile.
Who here has had miata headbolts fail? The biggest waste of money I ever did on my car was replacing my headbolts the third or fourth time I put them back in. And I know reliability.
P.S. Don't wear your mod hat while reading that last bit. :-)
#295
Supporting Vendor
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Joe,
You did have your hood on. But I don't think that was it. Anyway, a better note would have been:
To those putting on ARP studs, return them while you still can, and buy something worthwhile.
Who here has had miata headbolts fail? The biggest waste of money I ever did on my car was replacing my headbolts the third or fourth time I put them back in. And I know reliability.
You did have your hood on. But I don't think that was it. Anyway, a better note would have been:
To those putting on ARP studs, return them while you still can, and buy something worthwhile.
Who here has had miata headbolts fail? The biggest waste of money I ever did on my car was replacing my headbolts the third or fourth time I put them back in. And I know reliability.
Where do you take your boost signal? Something tells me your MBC is plumbed at the turbo outlet. Move it over to right in front of the throttle plates, and EBC will be some weird bad memory you'll never want to revisit, like all those men you kissed in college just to prove how confident you were in your heterosexuality.
#298
Define fail. They do stretch, which can either create a small HG problem on boost, where the resultants of combustion can enter the cooling system, or they can cause a full on failed HG. I have a set of ARP head studs to fix the former in my car... My cooling system shows signs of carbon monoxide contamination, but leak down test shows no HG problem!
You are correct, I get signal from the comp outlet, and from a shitty spot in the comp outlet too. As an experiment I'm going to reference the actual IM, with a check valve in line. Easy experiment to prove/disprove the theory. Plus my WG can itself does suck.
You are correct, I get signal from the comp outlet, and from a shitty spot in the comp outlet too. As an experiment I'm going to reference the actual IM, with a check valve in line. Easy experiment to prove/disprove the theory. Plus my WG can itself does suck.
As to the wastegate can, YES, it's totally worth taking ahead of the throttle plates. Taking it in the mani means your wastegate is a little too shut, all the time. Way too shut, really. This means superheated air coming out of the turbo, heatsoak in the intercooler, possible blown intercooler pipes, etc etc.
Eveyrone who's followed my advice on the MBC signal location has been very happy with it. On my own car I saw several PSI of boost come back when I moved it, and the horrible turbo-over-spinning sound go away when I took it out of the manifold. But you will like the throttle response. :-)