What would you do....
 

If you were removing the last bolt off your pinion housing to split it from the carrier and the top-half of the bolt snapped off. I can't drill into it....Guess I need to take it to a shop? Any other recomendations? :td:

A machine shop could extract it for pretty cheap im sure.

pissed me off, everything else came off without a hitch....it's always the last freaking bolt :sad:

Open a beer.

is the bolt on the top or bottom of the housing?

get a picture. then i give you ideas.

what size bolt is that? M10?

My friend and I were fixing a latch on my HT. All 3 bolts stripped, squaring them for use with a socket = more stripped, BFscrewdriver = another one stripped, drilling them out = broken bit, extractor set=broke off extractor inside.

Carbide bit= got 1 out, made enough room to cross thread another bolt in, and make a small hole in the HT.

I feel you.
total time close to 10 hours

booze + hammer + you = stress relief

Pitlab I couldn't get the latches off of my hardtop either, one came off just fine and I stipped all the bolts on the the other side, pissed me off. It's still like that haha.

Some fucker at my work got 9K back, well he dose have 5 kids

Yes, I know this one mutherfukker that has 10k in the bizank!

Wait...what?:eek5:

wtf... you guys are horribly off topic.

got to keep you on your toes. I'll snap a pic tomorrow Master Yater.

Wrong thread matey! :inout:

60AGS

in all it's glory:

https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/at...1&d=1170252597

that is one rusty turd!

Grind off the top to make a smooth surface, then drill that fuckstick out.

We all have different methods, and every situation seems to be different...

I'd suggest the mig/tig and bigger nut approach, but I'm lazy...

can you not see my pathedic drill hole....none of my bits would drill though the bolt material (I assume Grade 8 or 10)


if i had a welder I'd try that.

shit, i gotta bring that too now?

maybe your drills are all dull.

try the grind and drill with a known sharp one.

then use heat and stuff.

man, that IS a rusty turd.

its a sleeper.

What about dremel/hacksaw a slot in and use a big flat screwdriver?

weld a nut on the other side then use the nut to unscrew it. Or...umm....you're weaksauce.

could work if i had an impact driver. I'm going to try to find a good Ti or Carbine drill bit or whatever and try to use an extractor.

Last time i was at lowes they had a decent selection of carbide and Ti drills.

use heat too or that ain't gunna work either.

The welded nut might have worked before the hole, but now there's a chance of a big mess with the bolt metal so thin.

My buddy swore by these when remove an exhaust manifold stud from a cast iron head.

when you're through removing this thing you better update your lsd price list thread with tools purchased :gay:

I gotta take a trip to Sears on my lunch break tomorrow and see what I can't find.

No worries...If if it wasn't for any of these problems I wouldn't have the tool collect I have to-date.

slot it with a cutoff disc and get a manual impact that you hit with a hammer and use some nice penetrating fluid

somethis like this but more heavy duty
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...=-1&PID=619506

+2

You've been soaking it in PBlaster or equivalent too, haven't you? Didn't look like it in the pic.

Cobalt bit FTW.

After seeing the poor results on my manifold from some hack (pervious owner) attempting to drill out a sheared stud I'd take it straight to a machine shop and let them un-fuck it for you. Or you can fuck it up even further and pay even more in the end :)

I really dont want to have to lug a whole rear assembly if I dont have to.

After penetrating decisions, I have made my decision to slot it, lube it with PB blaster, and ream it with a flat blade enough so that it unscrews.

Be warned however, you might be left with half a bolt to the depth of the cut.

hey brainsy, since the head is gone, why can't you just pull the housing off without removing the bolt?

its still threaded in and holding the aluminum section tight.

It should only be threaded into one side of the housing or the other... so I think his question is still valid.

Yeah, maybe you can spin the whole aluminum rear housing counter-clockwise to un-thread it from the front carrier.

nope, there's half a diff under it still...

I still bet there's some amount of heating and banging (you know, like your wedding night) that could separate the two.

Ah yes, my wedding night...I don't think I learned anything there that can help us with Scott's situation, though :(

:rofl:

someone (pb blaster?) has come out with a penetrating oil that supposedly puts the "freeze" on the metal- super chilling it to free up some tolerance

Oh, yeah, forgot about the PB blaster incident on my wedding night...well, maybe I did learn something that could be useful to this thread.

man im telling you a machine shop probably wouldnt charge you more than $15 to extract that shit. The them its just a matter of putting it under a drill press and then running a tap through it. Wouldnt take much time at all and would end up being cheaper than some shit ass craftsman bolt extractors. Trust me on this, you break one of those hardened steel extractors off in there, which will happen, and you'll be worse off than you started.