100hp wet noodle.
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3 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Faeflora
(Post 827003)
Why? Because it's a 160hp wet noodle?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327644109 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327644109 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327644109 compression is low, dont know why. My latest theory is bad cam timing, but there is no way to check it without splitting the case it seems. |
Replace it with a VTEC motor?
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If you want gobs of torque get an EJ in there.
If you want a decent n/a screamer get the k20 in there. I'd go with a liter bike motor. All around win |
Ohhhh, DO WANT (subie model)! Its like an affordable atom.
Sucks about your engine woes. Crazy that it was that fast and that much fun with only pushing out 70hp. |
Originally Posted by triple88a
(Post 827181)
Replace it with a VTEC motor?
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 827192)
I'd go with a liter bike motor. All around win
Originally Posted by Tekel
(Post 827198)
Ohhhh, DO WANT (subie model)! Its like an affordable atom.
Sucks about your engine woes. Crazy that it was that fast and that much fun with only pushing out 70hp. |
Originally Posted by golftdibrad
(Post 827007)
compression is low, dont know why. My latest theory is bad cam timing, but there is no way to check it without splitting the case it seems.
Just as an FYI, if you're serious about wanting to get rid of the VW engine, Danny has a Subaru engine sitting at his shop which already has the bellhousing adapter, flywheel and clutch needed to mate it with the Porsche transaxle. It's technically mine (I bought a Forester turbo, stripped it, and sent him the motor) although I sort of lost interest in the project after that. I have no real use for the engine, and Danny wants it out of his shop, so let me know if you're interested. |
Get the thubaru motor. Seriously. Do it. That EJ257 will have so much grunt you'll be replacing the rear tires every weekend.
I can even tune it for you :D |
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 827232)
I don't have any first-hand experience with the T4, but it seems like removing the oil pump should at least give you "some" visibility into the area of interest.
Just as an FYI, if you're serious about wanting to get rid of the VW engine, Danny has a Subaru engine sitting at his shop which already has the bellhousing adapter, flywheel and clutch needed to mate it with the Porsche transaxle. It's technically mine (I bought a Forester turbo, stripped it, and sent him the motor) although I sort of lost interest in the project after that. I have no real use for the engine, and Danny wants it out of his shop, so let me know if you're interested.
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 827250)
Get the thubaru motor. Seriously. Do it. That EJ257 will have so much grunt you'll be replacing the rear tires every weekend.
I can even tune it for you :D |
Hmm. I've heard of others running this engine / tranny combo with no problems, but whatever.
I have the transmission from the Forester still sitting in my garage, if you want that as well. |
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 827258)
Hmm. I've heard of others running this engine / tranny combo with no problems, but whatever.
I have the transmission from the Forester still sitting in my garage, if you want that as well. I think the reason most people dont have problems is there are aircooled vw whenies. They get on it like once and go "oh its fast" then putt around on the weekends bragging about gas mileage. I RACE and drive the crap out my cars. The golf tdi of my name sake has lost an transmission and more than one wheel bearing from autocross. My 87 cabriolet? Exploded a transmission racing. Porsche rated that gearbox for like 150 ftlbs of torque, and people that race them in 914's with less torque than that still have issues. Clifs: If I swap engines all vw foolishness will be removed. :rofl: (except cv's...maybe) |
How much does the car weigh? 1700?
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It better weigh way less than that. I'd guess just a bit over 1k
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My point about the weight is, the less it weighs the less stress the drive train has. But I get the idea that OP doesn't want the subi stuff right now anyway.
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Originally Posted by Gearhead_318
(Post 827346)
How much does the car weigh? 1700?
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 827347)
It better weigh way less than that. I'd guess just a bit over 1k
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Buy a Ballistic 16 cell. It will start a 120+ cubic inch Harley big twin. That Type 4 will be a breeze for it. They're not cheap, but they weigh <3.5 lbs. As a bonus, they lose only a minuscule amount of charge over a year of sitting, so sitting for a month between opportunities to drive this thing won't hurt it at all as long as you don't have a drain in the system.
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On their website they offer subbie engine also next to the one u got. They make it seem like its the same chassis just different mounts.
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Originally Posted by vehicular
(Post 827382)
Buy a Ballistic 16 cell. It will start a 120+ cubic inch Harley big twin. That Type 4 will be a breeze for it. They're not cheap, but they weigh <3.5 lbs. As a bonus, they lose only a minuscule amount of charge over a year of sitting, so sitting for a month between opportunities to drive this thing won't hurt it at all as long as you don't have a drain in the system.
Originally Posted by triple88a
(Post 827400)
On their website they offer subbie engine also next to the one u got. They make it seem like its the same chassis just different mounts.
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6 Attachment(s)
So, update time. Turns out that the deck is supossed to be less than .060". Even with the large deck, static CR was 7.6:1. A good fellow over on shoptalkfourms measured is stock jugs, and what ya know, mine were 2.2mm longer. This also may have been throwing off something called valve geometry, and while I'm sure there is something to it its not where the power was, the power was missing from the big cam and high deck.
SO, the plan is to shave 0.105" off the bottom of the jugs, brinigng deck to about .055". Static cr of 9.8:1. dynamic will be 7.8:1. The stock 2.0l was 7.4:1. I will run premium fuel. If it becomes an issue, electronic timing. If it cooks, so be it. I'll either get new heads at that point (the likely failure point) or do a different engine. So, while its all apart I've been doing some other work. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1328229855 30+ pounds of not useful things gone.... Now.... I need a 'glovebox'. I have the old DIN blank from my golf....so this car will always have a lil dub in it. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1328229855 trimmed up, not to seal those holes... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1328229855 used some 3m spray glue, and its laminated. Light and locost. Little message there too :D https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1328229855 Big enough for a fish. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1328229855 With that amp out the way I can properly mount the MSD box. [commercial voice]MSD stands for MULTIPLE SPARK DISCHARGE[\commercial voice] https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1328229855 poking around the rear.... look what I find. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1328229855 would anyone care to venture what type of fluid that carries? The parking brake has me stumped. Once its back on the road I'll figure something out. With some luck, motor goes back together Saturday. Maybe in Sunday. -Brad |
What do you mean, the parking brake has you stumped? It doesn't have one, or the one on it sucks?
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